theory

iTrader: (5)

So I've almost come to the end of my mechanical semi-restoration. I came across a complete T2 drivetrain from the flywheel back. The sub frame and control arms have been powder coated, all bearings and bushings have been replaced, all new hard lines have replaced i.e. old fuel/brake lines from the firewall back, upgraded to T2 sway bars and new mounts and bushings for them as well,etc... You get the idea.

Now I've come to the point where the rear end must be installed. I'm only one guy working in the cold with basic tools and a regular Jack (not a transmission jack).

What's the best way to install the LSD, sub-frame, control arms, laterals, etc....
since doing it all as 1 piece will be damn hard. The car is jacked up, and the old rear-end has been removed, would connecting the subframe to the LSD be the best and install those 2 units as 1? then start adding the rest of the pieces?

The transmission and all will be done at a later time, for now the rear-end is the priority.

Thanks.

theory

iTrader: (5)

Here's and glimpse of my winter project and what I need help with getting in:

initial D is REAL!

Ive never dfone it, but i would imagine it should not be too hard to take it all out in one.
1)dissconnect brake lines, parking brake cables , fuel lines(if they are in the way)
2)unbolt struts
3)then u might be able to take everything out in one piece i woiuld imagine

theory

iTrader: (5)

All the old stuff was removed as one, that was the easy part haha. I'm trying to figure out the easiest way to install it all back in since I know some bolts/nuts are alot trickier to get at then others.

MaczPayne

iTrader: (5)

A friend of mine installed all of it as one unit and used a jack. It'll take a few tries, since the alignment has to be just right for it to all slip on. If you've got good coordination, you should be able to do it. .

YaNi

iTrader: (2)

Slide a sheet of plywood underneath the entire assembly. Use spacers to keep everything level, then jack the plywood into position.

al0389

iTrader: (1)

I did it the other day... well ive done it 3 times in the last 2 months....
(1 time to replace the diff with an LSD and the other 2 times to replace my control arms from unintentionally sliding to a curb... well... i was fu**ing with it lol)

I installed it all as one piece all 3 times because I think it is much easier that way because i found it nearly impossible to get the front mount of the diff bolted on while on the car.

I lifted the diff to bolt on first i only placed it in and screwed it just so it could be in place, don't tighten the nut, leave some space so you can move the diff up and down but it wont move side to side. Though you may not have to move the diff, I left it like that "just in case"

Then support the rest of the sub frame with the jack since the weight of the sub frame will be held by the diff mount.

Next, try to align the sub frame mounts. you will have to play with the sub frame as the sub frame will wobble and move around and become very annoying if you dont have a second hand or a pry bar. (it was a pain in the a** for me because I did this in a slanted driveway by myself in the middle of the night and i didnt have any help but my pry bar and my jack +4 jack stands)

There are only a few methods of trying to align the sub frame.
1. Get one in place and try to align the other, but the one placed first may move out of place.
2. Get both mounting spots remotely close to the bolts and try to bench press or move the whole sub frame into place.
3. Get a friend and between the two of you align the sub frame to be bolted on. (the option I didnt have lol)

I do not know if anyone has any other ways of putting on the sub frame but this is how I have been getting along