2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

Rear Camber Adjustment using Subframe Link

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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 07:12 AM
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toplessFC3Sman's Avatar
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Rear Camber Adjustment using Subframe Link

So, I got the adjustable length rear subframe link, and wanted to confirm that to increase the rear camber (so go from -2.5ish to say -1ish, aka decrease the negative camber), I will need to shorten the link, pulling the back of the subframe upwards.

Thanks!
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 07:47 AM
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I've never used one, but based on the suspension geometry involved, that seems to be correct. That should lift the inner mount of the semi trailing arm upwards, thus tilting it more to the outside of the car and decreasing negative camber.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 10:12 AM
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I am also interested in knowing this info. I am installing a camber bar soon and want to know which way removes camber.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:13 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
shortening the bar removes negative camber. it also puts the diff closer to the floor, and does odd things to the U joint angle, so if you go really really short, its not great.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:32 AM
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I went pretty semi low with my pbm coils and got karack's modified stock sub link (threaded part in middle for adjustments). I was trying to get to -.5 camber with mine but now my diff hits the chassis on hard shifts and I have verified my front diff mount is intact. depending how short you make your sub link, you may need to do the $10 pinion snubber mod to stop the clunk. you just drill one hole (need to remove bins/rear seat to access) to bolt it to, some people remove exhaust to make it easier. You can loosen the 2 front rear subframe mounting bolts to wedge the pinion snubber in there most of the time. its just a chunk of rubber that goes between the top of diff and chassis, reduces wheel hop too and will save your front diff mounts from breaking. do this with the sublink unbolted.
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Old Apr 12, 2012 | 11:59 AM
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Yea, I'm planning on installing the snubber, and already have the whole rear subframe dropped (replacing front diff mount & swapping a torsen into the S4 T2 rear end)

I thought that was the correct direction based on the geometry (like JerryLH3 said), but wanted to confirm. I prob won't go too short, but wanted to get rid of some of the excessive rear camber on the 'vert
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Old Apr 23, 2012 | 09:55 PM
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Okay, does anyone have a general rule of thumb on how much shorter length than stock yields how much the less negative degrees of camber?
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