I need to add rear camber adjustment. I am still on stock suspension and have 1 degree negative camber. My guess is that the stock rear camber links have gone bad

I'm also getting the cluking from the rear, and can feel some slop in them with the car jacked up.

That being said, has anyone used these adjustable camber links available from mazdatrix: http://www.mazdatrix.com/h6_86-92.htm

Are they good?

Does anyone else carry them/make them. I'd rather not replace the stock camber links and then still not have adjustable camber especially as I am planning other suspension upgrades in the future.

 

Those are the best out there as they allow you to adjust each wheels camber individually as opposed to the one main sub-link that adjust both of them together. They also allow you a larger range of adjustment. I have them on my car.

I have a spare set from my other car I sold. They are used but in perfect condition still. I'll let the pair of them go for $150. They would be ~$250 after taxes otherwise. That is as cheap as you will find them.

 

They are pretty much the way to go for the individual sides. One thing to think about if you get rid of the rubber bushings later is that these things change the angle of the suspension arm. That angle change will cause binding if you go to urethane(it does with the rubber as well its just not as noticable a problem) The best way to go is a spherical bearing in the outboard point.
The single verticle links will work well for a street/track car, you just may end up with more camber on one side. Maybe a couple tenths of a degree difference.

AWR Racing has the same looking item, it could be the same thing.

 

I have a set of the adjustable camber links on my car. I used to have that clunking issue in the back of my car as well. I got OEM camberlink replacements from mazdatrix. They solved the issue, but then less than 1000 miles later I decided to switch to the adjustable links. If you want my hardly used OEM camber links let me know.

I have not really had a chance to drive my car with the adjustable links.

 

I fails to see how these will cause binding, please explain further. Where is the binding occuring? In the link itself?
Does this result from an adjustment point much more negative then stock or a correction from radical lowering. I think I am going to bu RX-Heven's mounts, since I need camber links anyways, I will perhaps buy a single verticle link to make the camber adjustment and then use the camber links to do the side to side correction.

Will this set up bind with urethane bushings and approx a 1.2-1.5 inch drop.

Thanks,

RX-Heven, PM sent.

edit: one more thing, the AWR links in the picture at least don't have grease nipples, while the mazdatrix links do. I suspect that both companies purchase these from the same company and mazdatrix adds the nipples.





[QUOTE]They are pretty much the way to go for the individual sides. One thing to think about if you get rid of the rubber bushings later is that these things change the angle of the suspension arm. That angle change will cause binding if you go to urethane(it does with the rubber as well its just not as noticable a problem) The best way to go is a spherical bearing in the outboard point.
The single verticle links will work well for a street/track car, you just may end up with more camber on one side. Maybe a couple tenths of a degree difference.

AWR Racing has the same looking item, it could be the same thing.[QUOTE]

 

The Mazdatrix item looks exactly the same as the AWR item, which is also available from several other vendors, like Flatout Motorsports, which has the lowest price that I've seen.

They cause binding because they twist the arm relative to the subframe, which causes the bushing and the bolt to be at different angles. Without shperical bearings, the best would be as you stated, use the center link to adjust the camber so that the average is what you want, then adjust each side equally and oppositely to eliminate any side to side difference.

I saw an interesting alternative on the IT racing board today, I don't know if it'll work or not, as I'd be worried about the set screws slipping and causing the camber to change, potentially dynamically as you drive, which would be bad. If you're worried about slipping and aren't concerned with micro adjustments you could drill a series of holes for the set screw to provide a slip free fit.

http://itforum.improvedtouring.com/f...howtopic=10375

 

They are all the same links manufactured by AWR.
They all have the grease fittings even though it does not appear so in some of the pictures.