88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

Hi all, I am lowering the subframe and differential to replace the hard fuel lines. I have everything ready except the rear caliper and brake lines. I broke the 3 bolt heads on one caliper and two on the other, the 3rd bolt I can't even get off it is on there good. How do I remove the brake line so that I can just leave the caliper on there so that I can lower the entire subframe and get at those broken bolt heads more easily. No idea how I am going to fix that mess either...any suggestions?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

If you only had loosened the ONE 12mm bolt on the caliper,you pop the caliper UP off the rotor,and it would have slid off the glide pin on the bracket.
You broke the 14mm caliper bracket bolts..
No real way to get the brakes off now,Unless you grind off the front of the bracket,then take the rotor off..
once that is done you can grind the bracket off.(or it should fall off.The bolts are just through the assembly and thread into the bracket.
OH,you are gonna need room to do this so you may as well just take the Flex line off the brakes.
That way the whole diff will fall now anyways.

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

Alright! Well I screwed this up real good! I had already got the caliper off the bracket by loosening that 12mm bolt like you told me to do, that was not a problem In your pics you sent me there were no lines attached to your subframe & diff that were removed. I think I confused this Flex line that is attached to the caliper bracket (is that right?) with the brake line. What purpose does this Flex line serve and now how do I take it off because this is the line that is preventing me from removing the entire subframe?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Sorry I gave you a little misinformation above,
PM me your PH # and we can talk about what is going on.( I got Kick *** Long distance!)

Puck

iTrader: (1)

With the bolt heads broken, the caliper should come off now, shouldn't it? The bolts may be seized in the holes slightly, but with a few hits from a hammer, won't they come off?

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

I wish! The bolt heads are sheared off right at the head, there is still a good part of the bolt body that is in the thread of the caliper bracket

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The bracket won't come off Unless the rotor is off.The bolt gets hung up in the spindle assembly's hole that the bolt goes through.
Now,to rectify the previous Post that I had above:
IF you take the 2 screws out of the rotor you "MAY" be able to get that rotor and bracket to pop off as "one"..That is IF the bracket's bolts are not seized in the spindle assemblies holes.
....
I had this happen to me and I cut the crap out of everything to get it off.The bracket bolts were Stuck TIGHT in the spindle assembly and it wouldn't budge until I got at it with a cold chisel and a sledge hammer,
The outcome was getting new brake brackets,and they are only available if you buy the Complete rear brake assembly..(not just the caliper.)

Puck

iTrader: (1)

Heat heat and more heat!!!

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

I looked over my shop & Haynes manuals today. Is this "brake line" or Flex line part of the ABS system? Or is it part of the wheel speed sensor system? I would just like to remove that line to be able to remove the subframe.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

Just slide the caliper off the Bracket!!!
it will dangle loose BUT still be hooked to the car by it's Rubber "flex line"(brake line that goes to the caliper)
TIE the brake caliper to the shock springs so they don't interfere with the dropping of the subframe.
DO you have ABS????

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

Yes I have ABS, it is a 10th anniversary. The calipers are off the bracket and hung out of the way..always have been. There is another line that is in the back of the wheel that runs through the rear control arm and then up somewhere to the front of the car. There is NO way to remove the subframe without removing this line. If I knew what it was then I might be able to figure out how to remove it properly. Here are some pics I just took right now.

john ward

iTrader: (7)

Wheel speed sensor. They get froze in hub often. Try and soak in pb and lightly twist back and forth to break free. Or follow wires to plug

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

Thanks John, I'll do that! I will try and include more pictures next time because it was obviously unclear what I was trying to explain.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

my cars never came with ABS,So that is why I never mentioned it!.
Ya there should be a connector somewhere around that thing.I know Mazda wouldn't wanna sell ya a sensor with 10 feet of leads on it!.

Molotovman

iTrader: (49)

Piece of cake.
Do what the said for the ABS Sensor.
After its out of the way, unscrew the rotor, it will need to come off with the bracket.
Get a can of MAP gas with a torch head, a can of PB Blaster, and a large/long punch. Soak the broken bolts with PB good, then heat slowly, not excessively and hit the bolts out with a punch and hammer. As stated before, they screw into the caliper and only go through the hub.

Just be patient and don't use too too much heat, I think the rear hubs are cast aluminum.

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

Well I've tried twisting it back and forth to pull it out but it's not budging. I soaked it in Liquid Wrench for a few days prior. Does the sensor wire just pull out regardless if the bolt is in or out of the toe control hub? I would figure that you would undo the bolt then the little plate would pop off with the sensor and wire but it doesn't seem to after trying to pop it off with a flathead screw driver and a hammer after unsuccessfully tring to twist it out. I got the tip of a screwdriver in between and gave a wedge and the plate started to lift (bend) so I stopped before I did anymore damage. What am I doing wrong?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I just read a boat load of stuff on this sensor and it appears to be a real SnotBag to get off.
PB BLASTER is recommended..( I'd use this over Liquid wrench any day).Soaking the **** out of it and turning it side to side is about all they can give ya.Then try pulling it straight out.
.NOTE:..just out of curiosity,would you consider ABS delete??.(then you can cut that wire and drop the subframe.!!!)

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

ah! I didn't realize PB Blaster was better, I'll go pick up a can today. Remove the ABS?....I don't know. If it was just so that I would remove the subframe, probably not...but if there were no advantages to keeping it, maybe....if it isn't too tough ;-)

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

forgot to ask bit by twisting it back and forth does it come with the plate that is bolted to the toe control hub, or does it come out of that plate? If so then why is it bolted in there anyway?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I searched : "ABS removal" on here.That is how I got the info.
I assume turn the sender and the plate.
Also,ABS removal would entail getting rid of the Abs Pump in the engnen bay and rerouting some brake lines,so you can look that up to see if that is what you would like to do.
..............
Never fail though Huh?..simple **** turns complicated with these cars..!!!

88turborx7

iTrader: (1)

Is this what I should use?:

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows....jsp?locale=en

or even better:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/mapp...ylinder/913335

DoubleJ

I'd bet 10/10 That's what he was talking about. That's what i'd use in a situation like that.