Driving "daphne" today on 150 mile trip, highway 99%, got the little brake pad warning sqeak on passenger rear. Correct me if the dog is wrong, but don't the fronts usually go away faster then rear? I know, previous owner might have changed fronts and not rears, but typically, isn't it the fronts that go first? Will check all, but dumb dogs computer crashed 30 hours ago, and finally getting my fix. GOD, its good to be home. Lost everything, but installed priorities first. I'm back and need to bark, so let me ask the dumb ones, for at least 4 hours. By the way, had car 5 months now, and the f-kin neighbor thought an suv could fit in 10 feet of space between cars. 3rd time dog been hit by car, and once by flying board off truck. Anyone want to put muzzle on car, dog can bite!
PEACE RUF RUF RUF RUF RUF

 

Yes - front pads usually wear faster than rear. Unless of course a dog has been pissing on them. Anything you want to tell us?

 

Yes, fronts do wear out faster.
BUT, what if the fronts were already changed and the rears haven't?
It might be the original set of rears with a new set of fronts?

Else, it could be just a build-up of dust and crap under the pad, or (unlikely) a small rock got under the brake pad.

Easy to check...need to inspect the brake pad (and caliper) and check the rotor.
If there is ANY grooving of the rotor, change it.
Check pad width...kinda obvious if it's low or not.

Good luck!


-Ted

 

Thanks guys, haven't got to car yet, but one more question before I check out the brakes. I have installed new pads on other vehicles, and when getting the new ones, even though they were due, seemed like new set wasn't a whole lot thicker than worn ones. Any idea on thickness of new pads?

PEACE RUF RUF RUF RUF RUF

 

You'll want to have the little tool (<$10 at Auto Zone) that rotates the rear caliper piston back into its bore. It can be done (sometimes) with needlenose pliers, but the tool will make the job easier.

 

Most auto parts stores will actually loan tools. I go to orielly's, but I'm not sure if they have them where you are.

 

Or your situation is like my fiance's car. I am of course her endentured mechanic and I changed all her brakes when we bought the car (acura integra). Then less than 20k miles later she needed the rears done again as they were metal on metal. I knew it was because she had drove around with the e-brake on for some time before noticing it. I thought about confronting her on it but knew that would only create more problems for me than just fixing and forgeting....gotta pick your battles. lol

 

Thanks again, what tool are you referring to, obviously I haven't tackled the projcect yet, computer still got some flees, but obviously by the way you humans speak, they are not the standard calipers that I am used to dealing with. Any photos, or threads, I can check out the whole "tool" and caliper views.

PEACE RUF RUF RUF RUF RUF

 

Nah, the brake job on the FC is pretty much standard as any other, except IIRC the back calipers have to be SPUN in, instead of pushed in by a brake caliper tool.

 

Yes spun in, but you still need "the tool". I don't know the real name for it. It's like a little rubix cube thing that you can fit the end of a 3/8 rachet in each side and spin the pistons back into the bore by using the raised nubs on the opposing side. Hard to explain really, but you will know one when you see it.

 

everytime I have done it, I just used the tips of needle nose pliers. Worked like a champ.

 

are you ****** kidding with the way you type??

 

Hey asswipe, if you don't like what I have to say, don't reply. I like to enjoy life and this one way to take the edge off, for a DOG , OF COURSE. Well, popped off the rears and look fine, but whats up with the V-shaped flexible wire that is in the holes in the pads? Temporary tension to hold in place during installation? Also, if the rear piston on the caliper spins in, could this be a possible cause of my squeak? No wear indicators, so that wasn't what I heard. Gonna replace all wheels anyway. Called for prices 24.53 for fronts, 25.79 for rears, thats with company discount. Too cheap not to replace while I'm there.

THANKS PEACE RUF RUF RUF RUF RUF

 

you are a ***. ruf ruf ruf ruf.... lol

 

WOW, theaintIisretarted, well thought out reply. Did your mommy help you come up with that intellectual response, or did the sheep help also? Can we archive his brilliance, or am I just BARKING up a tree? IQ, and, exquisite avatar, show how "smart you is feller". Try again, and brakes refer to a "rotorized vehicle", not when ROMPER ROOM is on commercial, and time to change your diaper. CHILDREN, this is prime living example that sucking your thumb does cause brain damage. PEACE, AND UM, RUF RUF RUF RUF RUF

 

lol. man that was good stuff. you talk about people being retarded and you act like you are a dog? does that make sense?



btw, i have no avatar. don't see the point. so what was yours?



its funny how you talk about intelligence, and you don't even know how to work on your car.



RUF RUF RUF RUF YIPE!!!

 

Dude, you guys better watch the flaming or you are going to get moderatorized..

 

Ello again, Dog!

You know, you really don't have to replace the brake rotors if there's no sign of warpage, pitting, or scoring/scratching. The sqeaking can defiantely be caused by the pads themselves, especially if the PO bought the cheapest set of pads he could find.

Some helpful info:

Always spring the extra 5 bucks for the highest quality line of brake pads that a store sells (Advance calls it the platinum line). The cheaper pads are MUCH more likely to sqeak and wear quickly. The sqeaking alone should be enough to get you to buy them, not even talking about the potential rotor damage..

NEVER get the lifetime garuanteed brake pads if you can avoid it. From what I've read, they can lifetime garuantee those, because they make them out of a much harder compound, leaving your rotors to be the wear surface. NOT what you want. If the highest quality line is lifetimed', then you can deal with it, but be wary of cheaper lines that are lifetimed.

Cheers!

 

Thanks for the information Wonko. The person at the parts store misquoted the price to me, but still under 100 bucks. I'm friends with one of the managers, so I'm going to get a front and a rear set to compare thickness anyway. And as far as the cheap ****, not willing to go half assed on this car. And for you moron, If you even payed the slightest attention to my posts, I've owned this car for five months, first experience with a rotary, and I don't take my car anywhere for service. I learn by reading, asking when I'm not sure, and hands on training. Nobody standing next to me holding my hand. Yes I screw **** up, but I don't repeat, when I'm paying for the replacement. And last, I run heavy equipment for a living, and have more knowledge in 10 years of diesel engines, hydraulics, pumps, pressure, injectors, air-cooled, electric over hydraulic, PSI, etc in my pinky than you will ever have of anything. Go back to driving your PINTO, and stay out of my face. I'm a big enough man to ask when I'm not sure, instead of criticizing from a distance, like, well , YOU./

PEACE RUF RUF RUF RUF RUF

 

you run heavy equipment for a living? that means that you are one of those grunt men that i boss around. sorry.



i am rather knowledeable in all of the things you mentioned. i have a college education. so yet again, keep running that hghi ho or dump truck. because people like you need people like me to tell you what to do. such is life, what can i say.

 

Yet you still argue with a guy who acts like a dog on the internet.

Here's a hint...

 

doesnt it suck when people younger than you are in higher positions? i bet it makes you jealous.

 

Read above.

 

that means you find him to be as silly as i do. glad you agree. after all, that is all i was trying to say. acting like a dog on the internet is ridiculous. that is all.

 

Read below.