Really odd brake issue
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MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,176
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From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
The bracket area where the pad ears slide sometimes accumulates rust from old pads. Make sure this area is ok and lube with a little brake caliper slider grease or anti seize. Oh...also sometimes the pad backing plate is a little big and the ears end up a little long or too wide.
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MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
Took the **** apart today and cleaned up the little metal bushings that the pads "ears" go into and also sanded the ears down slightly. Put the pad in and it moved in there like butter. Put it all back together and...
...It's still ******* only grabbing the outside edge of the rotor!
...It's still ******* only grabbing the outside edge of the rotor!
Damn. Maybe it is the sliders....jk 
You'll have to machine or replace the rotors for sure to solve the mystery. If the same thing happens after a while, then I don't know...cuz you said the caliper was fine (piston not seized) I believe.

You'll have to machine or replace the rotors for sure to solve the mystery. If the same thing happens after a while, then I don't know...cuz you said the caliper was fine (piston not seized) I believe.
Thread Starter
MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
Yeah, The caliper works fine. Guess i am going to have to turn the rotor.
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MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
Yeah, but stuff like the brakes...once you're done you should get years of trouble free performance.
Just bleed em occasionally and keep an eye on the pads, not like they require constant upkeep.
This issue is hardly RX-7 specific.
I'd imagine any 20+ year old car would need the brakes thoroughly renovated.
Just bleed em occasionally and keep an eye on the pads, not like they require constant upkeep.
This issue is hardly RX-7 specific.
I'd imagine any 20+ year old car would need the brakes thoroughly renovated.
They should work fine. If it doesn't vibrate leave it alone. The pads will wear in. These are the rear brakes right? Front do 80% of the work. Otherwise just go buy new rotors and pads. These pads are already funked up by the warped rotors. I wouldn't bother.
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MECP Certified Installer
Joined: Feb 2009
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From: Mesquite, TX-DFW
They are worn down about roughly a millimeter, so i am somewhat afraid of machining them now as to not cross that 18mm specification of doom.
My convertible top is not handling the Texas heat this year well, so shelling out $50 bucks for a brake rotor is something I don't want to do! ****, I am looking at 1,000+ dollars to replace the top!
I don't know if I am going to just break down and get a new rotor, or just let the pad wear in. As i see it, if the pad wears in and the rotor is fine besides having a little extra wear on one side, as long as it's not warped our out of clearance, it should be okay. On the other hand, my top ripping slightly more everytime the sun hits it allows the weather into my car.
I have spent $1500 dollars in 2013 on this car to this date. Last year I didn't need anything but regular oil changes, so we won't count that. The year before I spent $6,000 on an engine. So can you why my mindset is where it is? I am currently staring down the barrel of convertible top replacement (which i really can't afford but will have to) and now a ******* brake rotor acting weird is cutting into my wallet.
I really want to just pull my ******* hair out right now. Maybe this is why I drink so much, haha.
My convertible top is not handling the Texas heat this year well, so shelling out $50 bucks for a brake rotor is something I don't want to do! ****, I am looking at 1,000+ dollars to replace the top!
I don't know if I am going to just break down and get a new rotor, or just let the pad wear in. As i see it, if the pad wears in and the rotor is fine besides having a little extra wear on one side, as long as it's not warped our out of clearance, it should be okay. On the other hand, my top ripping slightly more everytime the sun hits it allows the weather into my car.
I have spent $1500 dollars in 2013 on this car to this date. Last year I didn't need anything but regular oil changes, so we won't count that. The year before I spent $6,000 on an engine. So can you why my mindset is where it is? I am currently staring down the barrel of convertible top replacement (which i really can't afford but will have to) and now a ******* brake rotor acting weird is cutting into my wallet.
I really want to just pull my ******* hair out right now. Maybe this is why I drink so much, haha.
Is the convertible top actually torn, or are you just noticing water pooling inside the car? If so, you may just need to re-position the pockets behind the doors & save yourself some $$.
Its also possible that the caliper itself on that side has gotten tweaked, so that the non-piston side is no longer flat, with the bottom bent out slightly. Taking a quick measurement of top-to-top vs bottom-to-bottom would answer this one.
Its also possible that the caliper itself on that side has gotten tweaked, so that the non-piston side is no longer flat, with the bottom bent out slightly. Taking a quick measurement of top-to-top vs bottom-to-bottom would answer this one.
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Smiths Falls.(near Ottawa!.Mapquest IT!)
Rotor blanks are cheap.So just go and get the cheapest Blanks you can get.
I got all 4 corners and pads for under 200 bucks.
Duct tape the roof,you can live with that!You said you will replace it anyways,right?..eventually?
I got all 4 corners and pads for under 200 bucks.
Duct tape the roof,you can live with that!You said you will replace it anyways,right?..eventually?
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