really need advice-car runs awful hot
#1
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really need advice-car runs awful hot
OK, well I tore into my 88Tii after finding a number of issues that had me worried about reliablility. I ended up pulling off the upper and lower intake as well as the turbo and related parts. I replaced a few seals and rubber parts and put on a non-cracked exhaust manifold while in there. I got everything back togther ok but I have a problem.
When the car is cold it will run just fine. It makes pleanty of power and A/F ratios while a little on the lean side are acceptable while running. Once the car begins to gain some temperature it will start to buck and the A/F goes very lean. It seems to me the car is going limp mode and I can idle fine but anything above that is asking too much.
After letting the car sit for a while I was able to start and run again but again once it reaches a certain point the trouble starts again. My bsic understanding of engine electronics tells me that whent the computer takes over and begins to regulate things is where the problem arises.
addition info on the motor. its a high milage motor but like I said makes great power cold. I have done a smog delete removing the air control and EGR. Prior to ripping into it I did have the flood issue I believe is due to low compression. A switch on the fuel pump relay allows me to start it when hot.
Some areas of concern: I did have to mess with the wire harness that comes across the front of the engine that supplies info for the Air control, and the IAC? The only air solenoid working is for the twin scroll system.
Im considering possible suspects as the MAF, the water coolant temp sensor, and the O2 sensor. Does anyone have any further areas of concern I should try to delve into to try to solve this issue? Im working on limited time and limited funds atm. Im hoping to not have to trailer the car back tore Oregon so any quick help would be appreciated.
When the car is cold it will run just fine. It makes pleanty of power and A/F ratios while a little on the lean side are acceptable while running. Once the car begins to gain some temperature it will start to buck and the A/F goes very lean. It seems to me the car is going limp mode and I can idle fine but anything above that is asking too much.
After letting the car sit for a while I was able to start and run again but again once it reaches a certain point the trouble starts again. My bsic understanding of engine electronics tells me that whent the computer takes over and begins to regulate things is where the problem arises.
addition info on the motor. its a high milage motor but like I said makes great power cold. I have done a smog delete removing the air control and EGR. Prior to ripping into it I did have the flood issue I believe is due to low compression. A switch on the fuel pump relay allows me to start it when hot.
Some areas of concern: I did have to mess with the wire harness that comes across the front of the engine that supplies info for the Air control, and the IAC? The only air solenoid working is for the twin scroll system.
Im considering possible suspects as the MAF, the water coolant temp sensor, and the O2 sensor. Does anyone have any further areas of concern I should try to delve into to try to solve this issue? Im working on limited time and limited funds atm. Im hoping to not have to trailer the car back tore Oregon so any quick help would be appreciated.
#3
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Once the car begins to gain some temperature it will start to buck and the A/F goes very lean. It seems to me the car is going limp mode and I can idle fine but anything above that is asking too much.
Why not confirm it by scanning for error codes?
-Ted
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not flogging...driving yes. And I guess I should clarify, that even while its still warm, if I let it sit for a while and cool down a little, the problem will go away only to return when it gets a little hotter.
I dont have the proper equipment to read the codes as I understand there is not a simple jumper and read flashing light deal like my supra had. I will look into getting the codes read.
I dont have the proper equipment to read the codes as I understand there is not a simple jumper and read flashing light deal like my supra had. I will look into getting the codes read.
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I should aslo add that this truble did not exist before I had the intake off to do some of the emissions delete. Something changed at that point. Im mostly afraid that while working the harness out of the way that I possibly broke a brittle wire in harness. Thats going to be awfully hard to diagnose.
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Well sometimes I could just kick myself for smoking all that pot back in the 70's. I discovered that I didnt plug in the TPS...DUUUUUUUURRR!
I discovered this as I was taking off the upper intake to redo the ground for the ECU. Went ahead and redid all the grounds anyway and the ECU and both of the divers side body grounds looked iffy. Either way she runs perfect now. Better than ever. Smooth idle, lots of power, and A/F ratios right on target.
Chalk this one up to Dumb owner.
I discovered this as I was taking off the upper intake to redo the ground for the ECU. Went ahead and redid all the grounds anyway and the ECU and both of the divers side body grounds looked iffy. Either way she runs perfect now. Better than ever. Smooth idle, lots of power, and A/F ratios right on target.
Chalk this one up to Dumb owner.
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