MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

42,000yen, or $380USD. That's off their website, but expect to pay much more if you get it from a company in the U.S... Rotary Extreme and Cork Sport should be able to get them. Out of curiosity, why do you have a Steyr AUG as your Avatar, and why is your name AUGieDogie?

sc0rp7

iTrader: (3)

It is obviously just a1 and a 1/2 Intercooler, It had been discussed before I believe on here and other forums. I am not going to disagree with anyone, but I will say that a few people had interesting things to say that allowed the intercooler to run in stock location with more boost than the stock TMIC without overflowing it because of its large size, however I do not know if they removed or "remade" the stock rubber gromet on the uderside of the hood.

- Chris

snowball

im having a little trouble finding this on RE's website, and as far as i know they use FMIC's on their cars. (at least on the track cars ive seen pics of)
nm found it, guess theirs a reason they call it the 1.5 kit lol. since it is another .5 welded on.

Boostmaniac

I ran water only in my CRX every summer. I drained a little and added antifreeze (not coolant) to the mix. Distilled water isn't going cause massive rust (unless you have a lot of iron prevalent in the motor. Anything that is all aluminum won't rust at all, but if you use tap water that has minerals in it, it'll gunk up quick. I think I read somewhere that there is this oil you can add in there to help lubricate the system as well.

In closing, I never had any rust or water pump problems. Some cars can actually do that.

bacek

heatsoak might take away some power but at least it doesnt affect cooling issues which imo is something that is more important to watch then power... i dont care if my car makes 10whp less than it should as long as it is still cooling efficiently and wont overheat my engine because then id be making 0whp... dont worry about heatsoak for now until you are ready for a good fmic setup or if you want to keep the tmic maybe think of a water cooling system

S4.5RX7

There is a way to have the best of both worlds, but its very very very rare to find.



Its the old HKS top mount that they discontinued. This picture was pre-microtech, so I still had all my vaccum rack installed. After I got the microtech, I installed an 8" Derale electric fan underneath the intercooler (I'll get new pics) and it never heatsoaks while the fan is on (Usually all the time). Its the only top-mount that I've found you can put a fan under, the only downside is that I had to take about 13 square inches of material from the underside of the hood. With that up top though, and no AC condenser in front, my water temps never go above 180 degrees.

hughes

I know heatsoak has been dissused many times but I have some data that may ne of interest. I spent a lot of time making sure that my TMIC fit tightly against the hood rubber and that the rubber seal had the stiffening wire installed correctly. I attached a IQ tecd data logger with 5 calibrated thermocouples. One is above the IC (ambient) measures the air coming in, one is in the IC core (core). One is after the tubro (pre-ic) and the other in the hose leaving the IC (intak). Then I did several full throttle runs and logged the data. The x axis is time (seconds) and the y is the temp. If you do the math on IC efficency- You can see this stocker is close to 70-80 efficent. When the car is moving heatsoak seems a non issue. Picture 1 is raw data and picture 2 is the same data with some smoothing applied.

NZConvertible

If you can't get something like that made for under US$100 then you're not trying hard enough. Buying one from RE-A would be financial lunacy.

In automotive terms, antifreeze and coolant are the same thing. You can't get just one or the other. These products also have additives specifically for lubricating the water pump bearings. Running without proper coolant not only causes corrosion (there is iron in a rotary) but also shortens the life of the water pump bearings.

If you're going to dispense dodgy advice, you should know the downsides as well.

Do you realize that high intake temps lower resistance to detonation? A heat-soaked TMIC causes scary-high intake temps. If you crack an apex seal your cooling system is the least of your worries...

I got really interested in the idea of fan-assisting the stock TMIC until I realised it was impossible to fit a fan under it. An IC like yours would probably be pretty easy to custom-make from a suitable core, and would be a good upgrade over stock, but I still think the time and money would be better spent on a FMIC. It will always cool better just because of the much larger airflow through it, and I'm convinced most FMIC-related cooling issues are caused by little to no effort being put into making sure all incoming air goes through the radiator. That's a nice set-up though, post some more pics if you have any.

You should check your thermostat then, since I presume that means the temps are normally lower than that. The thermostat shouldn't open until 180degF and in normal driving sit at 180-190degF.

That is really awesome data and it's great to see someone doing real world testing on the stock intercooler BUT, you need to do the same testing at low speeds and when stationary to show exactly had bad the heat soak problem is. I have temp display showing post-IC temps and even sitting for at a red light sees the temp climbing rapidly. Park up for ten minutes and when you restart you can get intake temps 40degC (70degF) above ambient. Your data shows the air above the intercooler ~10degC above ambient at the start and dropping to 1-2degC above ambient as you accelerate. This indicates the heat was rising up through the core at low speed, which is exactly what causes heat soak.

hughes

Addition to my first post ---- I made a mistake when I described the data. The x axis is time in seconds so the first graph is 0-600 seconds A ten minute run that has "normal driving events" Some boost but I can't stay in it long on public roads. The short spikes are quick little acelerations. Maybe 30 to 70mph. Didn't log that data so I'm not sure. The time constant of the tiny thermocouples is so small that they catch the quick temperature changes. The second graph was a subset from 170-290 seconds. I wanted to do some calulations with this data and thats why I made a smaller set. I do think heat soak happens when the car is not moving. The big graph clearly shows the temp climbing when the car is sitting after the drive. The intresting thing to me was that when the car was moving there was cooling going on. I use my car for road race style track events so I am only under sustained boost when I 'm moving along unlike a quarter mile event. I agree that a FMIC is the best solution but it is not trival to install one. So far moderate boost and a rich mixture has worked for me.

idsigloo

What about a small electric fan mounted on the firewall blowing the air out under the tmic? Your not obstructing the flow of air that is coming through the tmic when moving and the fan is blowing the hot air while the car is stationary?

NZConvertible

If you've ever looked at the underside of a stock IC you'll know why that wouldn't do a thing...

idsigloo

You're right.

MazterDizazter

iTrader: (5)

I wonder how much modding it would take to fit a Subaru STI or Celica GT4 I/C up there...

BenRX

Firstly i am very sorry for the Ancient thread revival, BUT... As you can see i have done a search instead of just starting a new thread!
I am interested in getting a uprated TMIC for my FC I've only found 1 place selling one and its an RE:A one - which is very very expensive and i've researched them and it seems you need a aftermarket bonnet/hood for them to be affective. I've heard of ARC copies and now i've seen this HKS one which as mentioned is very rare! Anyone know anywhere else that sells the ARC copies? I don't want to go FMIC or VMIC just yet.

Also i've heard that a starlet top mount intercooler will fit the FC as well and there are a few aftermarket top mount coolers available for starlets? Any one know if this is true?

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

Im running an ARC topmount, but im not sure if it is worth the trouble trying to find one






It may flow a little better than stock, but i do not believe it cools as well. on the stock intercooler, the air has to take two 90deg bends through the end tanks. the tubes in the ARC are oriented inlinel, the flow is just straight through and the stock TB elbow is replaced with slightly larger diameter. But on the cooling aspect, it is the about the same if not worse according to my logs. and you lose the cool "rotary turbo" emblem

BenRX

This is the thing, it seems trying to find one is difficult! Even the 'arc copies' are rare!