uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I just readjusted my TPS again (it wasn't far off), and cleaned up some connections and what-not, but the engine is still "jumpy" at idle. The injectors are new, as are teh spark plugs. I regrounded everything a short while ago, and have a cone filter now. I also checked the timing, which is dead on, and checked for vacuum leaks.

I don't know if you can really see it in the video, but it jumps a bit in the bay, and my shifter wiggles about a bit at idle. I did try pulling the plug on the BAC while it was idleing and the idle did not drop, but I only think that'll happen if the engine is cold, right?

At the exhaust, it doesn't sound like the engine is missing hardly any, and I still can't get the car to idle above 550rpm... don't know if all this is connected.

http://r3ptilicus.home.comcast.net/r...en_newidle.wmv

Kenteth

nice sounding exhaust.

I'm not hearing the jumpiness though? Can't get the idle high enough? I had this problem forever.

Adjust the secondary throttle stop., it will hold the secondaries open a tiny bit, it can adjust uidle by about an extra 800 rpm before the engine starts to choke it self. When you are adjusting the secondary throttle stop, the TPS will still be registering 0% throttle, hence it won't add gas. This is how it gets choked off if you open the stop too far.

If you do open slowly, the ecu will fuel cut around 1500rpm with 0% throttle. So it will fall back to around 800, and then rise again to 1500. fuel cut, and so starts this lumpy idle circle. It sucks. Anyhow, you'll find the sweet spot where it idles nicely without choking or missing a beat. -- if that is you have a steady hand and a correctly adjusted tps.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

I'll have to mess with that. How exactly do you adjust the secondaries? This 550rpm idle is messing with my mind, hehe.

I'm actually chaning the exhaust out with a HKS dual setup as soon as I can get a hold of it. I'm actually missing a pipe right now because the y-pipe split, and those are just generic mufflers on the end (I'm going deaf as it is right now)

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Sweet, thanks Kenteth, I adjusted the stop, and that puppy is idleing along at 750rpm now.

I don't get anymore light dim when coming to a stop with everything on, and it doesn't dive in idle when I let off the gas and come to a stop, it sinks nicely to the set speed.

It's still a bit jumpy though (more then it was at 750rpm when I was holding down the primary plates to get it to sit there if that makes sense), and I even checked my connections again, pulled the plugs, and scrubbed them.

I did check my timing again, this time with it idleing within spec, and it does register mis-timing now. The red mark when connected to the L1, is ~1 inch to the left of the pointer. I grabbed teh FSM and attempted to adjust it, but I can't get the CAS to move. If I'm figuring this out ocrrectly, I should be able to loosen this bolt:



and turn the CAS while she's running until it lines up, right? Please correct me if I'm wrong.

alwayssideways

your car sounds normal to me .. actually the rpm sounds a little high .. but nothing to really worry about ,, for me i had a small simular sound to yours ,, i just tweaked the TPS a little and it went away for the most part. but ive noticed on all my 7's they pop once in a while

VII

Sounds good, the more I read about N/A's the more I would like one to have alongside my t2.

Speaking of N/A's there is this crazy bright orange S4 with white 17 inch 5 spoke wheels, 12a bridgeport, I will repeat 12a, with carb,elec dizzy, its the old school in the newish school, all yours for $8500 kiwi. Bit different

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

Wow, that sounds crazy.

Anyways, tried moving the CAS again, and that puppy does not want to rotate. The bolt was on there pretty good too, so I'm wondering if it has never been adjusted.

I soeaked it up a bit where it joints the front plate, so hopefully it'll just slide along next time I try.

wyt r1ce

how do you adjust the secondaries? my car is idling around 1500-2500. i can use my foot to pull the pedal out and it will decrease as if it is shutting the TB flaps, but then it will slowly increase like they are reopening. what the hell. Tps need to be adjusted? and the deaccelerating piece?

wyt r1ce

also my idle control screw is all the way tightened. i can loosen it and the idel will go up but i tightened it to lower the idle and it didnt go lower than 2k

Kingofl337

Dude thats pretty much perfect. It ain't broke don't "fix" it.

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

If you can decrease the idle by pulling the pedal out, you need to adjust your throttle cable. Your pedal should always be able to move full out.

wyt r1ce

if i disconnect the throttle cable it still idles at the same speed though

uRizen

iTrader: (2)

If you disconnect the throttle cable, does your pedal come to a full rest? If that's the case (which it probably is), then your primary butterflys need to be re-adjusted, which I've never done. The secondaries are cake, there's just a little screw with a nut around it on top of the throttle boddy that you turn to push the little lever more or less.

wyt r1ce

the only PITA is having to take that damn intercooler on and off