RB torque brace
www.fc3s.org ----> how tos ----> suspension ---> engine brace
that reminds me I think I really need one of these. my car is almost undrivable in reverse some times... and I just have to throw the clutch in and start again. but it feels more like the drive shaft or something under the car is binding and I hear nice metal clunking noises...
that reminds me I think I really need one of these. my car is almost undrivable in reverse some times... and I just have to throw the clutch in and start again. but it feels more like the drive shaft or something under the car is binding and I hear nice metal clunking noises...
Last edited by Scott 89t2; Mar 27, 2002 at 07:16 PM.
The horseshoe part of the brace is installed using two of the bolts that hold the bellhousing to the engine. One is down behind the oil filter, the other is on the passenger side of the lifting lug (if you have an n/a).
The bar is installed by drilling a 3/8 hole in the driver's side of the engine compartment, 2" from the firewall and 9/16" down from the triangle-shaped metal piece.
I just installed mine last weekend and I love it. Lemme know if you need some advice on installing it.
- JB
The bar is installed by drilling a 3/8 hole in the driver's side of the engine compartment, 2" from the firewall and 9/16" down from the triangle-shaped metal piece.
I just installed mine last weekend and I love it. Lemme know if you need some advice on installing it.
- JB
Cool, thanks taranis. I have not bought it yet but I want to. I always get a little vibration when I rev it up even in neutral with the clutch disengaged. Annoying because my GSL-SE does not do it and has 70K more miles on it than my FC.
I've got it and wouldn reccommend it, and its pretty cheap price too. But its a bitch getting the bolt and the nut thingy to screw in, inbetween the fender.
One quick note on installation:
Best time to do it is when you're doing an oil change, where you can get the oil filter off and a wrench back there to get at the bolt. Also, there's some tubing at the back of the intake you'll wanna move out of the way so you can tighten the brace properly.
An easier way to get the nut threaded onto the rod:
Take the "nut bar" and bend it into a slight S shape.
When you get it in there with it shaped like this, you should be able to put the nut perfectly flush to the hole. Look thru the hole and line it up first, then slowly screw the rod into it. It took me 3 tries, but that method worked for me.
- JB
Best time to do it is when you're doing an oil change, where you can get the oil filter off and a wrench back there to get at the bolt. Also, there's some tubing at the back of the intake you'll wanna move out of the way so you can tighten the brace properly.
An easier way to get the nut threaded onto the rod:
Take the "nut bar" and bend it into a slight S shape.
When you get it in there with it shaped like this, you should be able to put the nut perfectly flush to the hole. Look thru the hole and line it up first, then slowly screw the rod into it. It took me 3 tries, but that method worked for me.
- JB
Trending Topics
I had to drill a second hole right above where the nut goes so I could see and help guide it onto the rod. But the engine brace is great. It does its job wonderfully and gives the car a better feel.







