i use carb cleaner...just pull a vac hose, stick the little red tube in there, rev the car to 2k, spray about half the can through. works great.

pat

 

Yeah carb cleaner works great and so doea amsoil power foam that stuff is made to clean carbon off interanals give it a try. And ATF won't clean carbon don't waste your time

 

Will the carb cleaner in the spray can mess up the vacuum lines over time? Do I need to use a different hose? I bought some the other day to do the 2-cycle/atf trick. My engine is currently seized, so I cant spray carb cleaner while it's running yet to clean up the carbon. I dont have much of a choice except to use 2-cycle, ATF, or MMO.

 

in that case, you want to use amsoil power foam or if you cant find an amsoil dealer use a mixture of MMO and SeaFoam Deep Creep. there are writeups on how to loosen carbon lock. unfortunately, carbon lock isnt real common, and you may well have a rolled apex seal, which requires a rebuild and a replacement rotor and housing.

pat

 

the engine is siezed and in the vehicle? i'd wager there is more to that than carbon buildup.

 

Yes..the car has been sitting for just over a year. Ran fine before that with the exception of the leaking injectors. It only has about 20,000 miles on it and oil was changed every 3,000 miles. Id have a hard time believing that it is carbon lock, but I dont know what else to think. I have removed all belts. Replaced starter and alternator and got a good charge on the battery. I cant even turn the engine by hand. I havent tried with breaker bar yet, but I wasnt sure if I should try to lube it up first before doing that.

 

my car has 155k on it so i did this in the fall after reading up on it, first i did half a can of carb cleaner into the vac line then let it drink a 2 litre of water, then went out and beat the hell out of it. afterwords the engine ran tremendously smoother and idled much better. over the winter i took it to banzaii racing and chris did a compression test and i have 110 in both rotors, wich is great for 155k. anyone that is thinking about doing this i would recommend it

 

What kind of carb cleaner did you use? Any specific one I should look for?

 

I wish someone would do a picture write up so I would know which hoses to use hehe.

 

they are all basicly the same thing, just make sure it says something about lubrication on the back of it. you dont want to strip all the oil from the seals without some form of lubriction. in other words, DONT USE BRAKE CLEANER

 

[QUOTE=Adam]139K ???? Why don't you just go through the motor......b4 it drops an Apex seal. You got your moneys worth out of that motor. It doesn't owe you another mile.

Remember if you rebuild it "Before" it blows, you just replacing rubber and springs. After it blows you need Rotor housings ($500ish new) Side Irons ($360ish new) The new rubber and springs well cost around $600.

 

You guys are crazy, i would never pour water into my engine. This thread sounds familiar-Didnt somebody do this on a vw board, and he f**ked up his engine?

 

You're not pouring a ton of water in at one time..geez....its just enough that gets sucked through the small vacuum lines. Not enough to hurt anything. It basically steam cleans the engine.

 

I know, Take your exhaust mani off and squirt Chem-Dip directly on the rotor face and let it sit over night. The next day turn the 19mm e-shaft bolt until the next face is showing and squirt it down and let it sit over night. The next day repeat step two for the third face.

(The above paragraph was a feable attempt at humer. The author and this message board accept no responsibility for those attempting this stunt, Now, previously or any time in the future)

 

and its not a piston engine water is the enemy of the piston engine but is a ok in a 7

 

What is Chim-Dip?!

**EDIT** ooook....what is Chem-Dip, now that you edited your post :P

 

[QUOTE=jhammons01]I know, Take your exhaust mani off and squirt Chim-Dip directly on the rotor face and let it sit over night. The next day turn the 19mm e-shaft bolt until the next face is showing and squirt it down and let it sit over night. The next day repeat step two for the third face.

He cant turn his engine

 

rgr that! Atleast not be hand or by pulling on a belt (like I used to be able to do). I havent tried with the breaker bar yet. I just dont want to break something.

 

Xstreme can't turn his engine, the original poster can turn HIS engine. Xstreme has another problem.....I read his other post bu I don't have any guess for his problem. And my post about putting Chem-dip (Carb cleaner that comes in a gallon paint can) in the motor is a joke.

 

lol i thought you were joking but i wasnt sure.
extreme, do not try turning it with a breaker bar, if you cant turn it by hand then you need to loosen the carbon untill you can turn it by hand

 

Ok...ill put the 2-cycle in tonight if it isnt raining then.

 

xstreme, your going to have to break your motor loose. You have no choice (not to jack the thread but......). IF you break something in the motor your right were you are right now....needing it to be rebuilt. If it is seazed you have to break it open to correct it. On the other hand if you get it to break loose and it runs you dodged a bullet.

First pull the plugs and the exhaust Manifold. Lube the crap out of everything inside that you can see/touch/etc. Try to get it to move just a hair in any direction. If you do....stop and go back the other way. Then repeat, go back and forth going a hair further each way

Thats all I can suggest. Other wise its a rebuild.

 

Well since there are no pictures and i dont have a cam to take photos. THis is How you do it!!! On 13b engines 86-88 for sure maybe 89-91 Look at the Upper intake you will See THREE Black hoses going into the Front, there are two the same size and
One Slightly Bigger, Grap the one in the Middle take it off slowly, It Runs Under the uim and the hoses are hard and brittle, the hose you Just took off should be sucking air, Its short So get another vac hose the same size and get a splitter or a connector to hook the hose up. The car might run like crap since there is a vac leak when you have it off, Get a pitcher of water and Drop it in as you crank the throttle, and there ya have it, No it wont hurt your car!!! the steam created by the cat itself would rot out the mufflers if you didnt run the car long enough, And after you stop feeding the water its no longer in the motor it quickly turns to steam and go's out the back. this was my first time doing it, and knowing alittle about engines its not going to get into your oil, and it wont get on the bearings, It wont harm the internals inside the rotor, and the guy that said he blew up his motor from doing this ( i dont believe you)

BTW just incase, And to save my ***, If you do blow up your engine,(not likely) I will not Be held responsible!!

 

My .02, for what it's worth...

I actually tried this once, just before the rebuild. Didn't actually do much for getting the carbon off of the rotors (especially in the "bathtub" areas), so I'd tend not to recommend this procedure...

If your side housings have more than maybe 150K worth of wear on them, you're probably blowing water and/or vapor into your lubrication system also...

 

Not for the short time that you are running water!! I understand what you are saying,But water is thicker then gas, and everytime you flood an engine gas is what gets into your oil and ****, Water ran for a few minutes is hardly enough time to ever get into your oil!!