Adam

I ran a whole Pitcher of water into my intake hose today. And i was wondering if a pitcher of water is enough to get the carbon off the rotors and ect? or will it get any out at all? i was told by a friend how to do it, People at my place thought i was nuts, lol. Can this improve how the engine preforms

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

how old is the engine?


you probably won't notice any more performance but it should have taken the majority of the carbon off the internals if you did it properly.

Adam

[QUOTE=Karack]how old is the engine?


you probably won't notice any more performance but it should have taken the majority of the carbon off the internals if you did it properly.[/QUOTE

1988 gxl 139k original engine

Adam

yeah im sure it was done right, steam came out the tail pipes my friend said, i could not see i was trying to rev up the engine to around 5k to keep it from stalling

rayden

that's seems pretty strange to me.

steam cleaned internals

Adam

the water is gone now, it turned into steam, and left the tail pipes, i would not let water sit in the engine or anything, Besides i went for a drive afterwards, No water or steam in engine now.

Adam

hope it wont carbon lock the motor. that would suck EH

Adam

Tomorrow i plan on puting on a smoke show for the Nice friendly naubors across the street.. got a few quarts of oil Just sitting,

rayden

i realized i was completely confused about how you had done it. i was going to delete it, but couldn't figure out how.

Adam

oh ok NP. when i first heard of it i was like ya WHAT? but it isnt a bad thing

chris-reedtn

poor some atf in the spark plug holes, bump the motor over a couple of times, let it sit over night, then crank it up in the morning, That should remove the remaining carbon. After you start it and run the smoke out. Put in some new plugs and youll be good to go

-Chris

zeromage428

i never knew you could do this hmmm, would it help to clean it out the engine like this every 10k miles?

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

i dunno, probably

xtremeskier97

I am going to be doing the ATF/2-cycle oil soon. But Im going to do the water after I do those 2 things. That way Im SURE all the ATF is gone. I have heard bad things about it damaging the oil O rings, so Im doing the water after. Ill prolly do 2 gallons. Ill do 1 gallon, then go for a drive, then come back and do another and another drive. Should be nice and clean after that.

RexRyder

iTrader: (10)

holy **** man, u dont need to run 2 gallons of ATF. like a ****** small bottle should be good enough. u might want to try and run some high quality injector/carb cleaner in there instead of atf too

YearsOfDecay

When you goons do this.... make sure that you run the engine for a long time afterwards and take it for a drive and BEAT IT to make sure that the exhaust gets good an hot and you get some high flow rates through the exhaust to blow out all the water.

I know it turns to steam, but it will collect and condense back into water in the exhaust system and then rot your exhaust system out if you just turn the car off after you do this. Ever wonder why little old lady grocery getters look nice and have really bad exhausts... its cause they only drive them ten minutes at a time and the exhaust never gets hot enough to get all the water out of it... my aunt goes through exhuast like we go through tires!!!

Its also a good idea to have the exhaust already nice and hot so that the water vapor doesnt have a chance to collect in the muffler packing and cause problems there!!

don't squirt the water into the manifold.. let the vac fron the motor suck the water out of the bottle by itself (ie, stick a tube through the cap down inside the water bottle so that the end is near the bottom of the bottle, hook the other end up to a vac nipple and let it go)

One final note.. If you have cats on the car... this water trick is probably going to help them clog up.. the carbon has to go somewhere... the cats are a nice place for it to "rest" on its way out the exhaust.

zeromage428

so exactly how do you go about this??? im thinking that u just take off the the air box n then just stick the tube into a pitcher of water...im totally confused now

xtremeskier97

Not 2 gallons of ATF!!! HaHaHa....2 Gallons of WATER!!!


So...would it be better if I just unhooked the exhaust all together? That way it cant get clogged and dont have to worry about water sitting in it. My car is not street legal at the moment is why I ask. Tires are bald as crap, inspection is overa year out of date, and the plates are a year out of date. I live in an apt complex and the most 'driving' im going to be able to do is around the complex...so no 'hot doggin' it for me.

Thanks for the help.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

atf in an engine is bad, i only maybe sometimes recommend it to start a flooded engine. water works fine for cleaning internals.

water in the exhaust is not a problem but the carbon is which is why you should run the engine semi hard afterward to blow out the carbon through the cats. H2O is a normal byproduct of combustion so why would it being in the exhaust cause it to rot out any quicker?

d0 Luck

ATF will f*ck up the rubber seals; expand over time and deteriorate.

xtremeskier97

Read YearOfDecay's post...he explains how to do it throught a vacuum line.

And on the note of the ATF trick...Im going to try 2-cycle oil first. If that doesnt work, then I will try MMO. If that still doesnt work, which I think by this time the engine should 'unfreeze', then I will do the ATF. Whichever I do, I will quickly follow with the water trick and give it a good flush out. My car has been sitting for just over a year and only has about 20,000 miles on the rebuilt engine, so I think it will start again. It just needs some.....persuasion!

zeromage428

thanx for the clear up, reading begins....

bigturbo

so which vacuum line do you use though to get the water throught the system. My engine has 100k and I would like to do the water trick by itself and I have no cats and a straight through muffler so Im not worried about it. Is there a write up on this procedure?

xtremeskier97

Yes...go to http://www.rotaryresurrection.com/

then click on "Tech" on the left and then at the end of the list click on "Water injection treatment for all rotary engines"

YearsOfDecay

Here is Kevins Write up for you that are too lazy to go to his website:

To perform this, I use a gallon jug of water and a long vacuum hose, say 3 feet. Though this is different for nearly every year and model, the underlying goal is to find 1 or 2 vacuum nipples on the intake manifolds after throttle body, preferably on the lower intake manifold so that the water can run straight down into the block. You want to feed both front and rear rotors evenly…generally you have 4 intake runners, 2 for the front, 2 for the back. Some engines have one nipple that can feed both (s4 turbos, for example, have one above the BAC valve that is evenly split between F and R primary runners). Some engines (fd’s and s5 na’s for example) have 2 separate nipples that can be teed together externally (vacuum hose and tee) to evenly feed both rotors.

With the engine running, remove the vacuum cap or lines that used to cover the nipple you’re using. You might have to apply throttle, so the engine doesn’t die due to a vacuum leak. Insert your hose(s) onto the nipples, and bend the hose somewhere in the middle by hand so that it seals off the air intake. Now, dip the end of the hose into the water at the bottom of the jug. Either grab the throttle linkage and rev the engine up, or have an assistant hold the throttle for you, above 3500 or so. Release your crimp on the hose, letting the engine vacuum suck water in. The engine will begin to shake and misfire, apply throttle as necessary to hold 3-4krpm and keep the engine from dying.

Expect a lot of steam from the exhaust. This is normal. I let the engine drink the whole gallon at once. When it’s done, it’ll begin to clear up slowly, and you can gradually let off the throttle and replace the original vacuum hoses/caps.