wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

How would I go about making a ram air intake for my t2? Stock maf/afm with corksport tid

I want to get rid of the stock airbox but.i don't want to be taking in hot air just so I can get more flow and free up some space.

My first thought was a hood duct with ducting Going to the air filter.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure you can use the stock airbox and modify it so you have ram air coming through from the bumper if you have a tmic. Making something so you use the front hood scoop would take a decent amount of fabrication since the intake piping would have to make a U turn and then becoming a long thin shape. Anything is possible.

Personally I would just shoot for colder air, ram air won't really help until your going pretty fast, and even then you need it sealed off to really call it ram air, or else its just cold air

barkz

iTrader: (1)

Why? Its turbo. Air is already being shoved in by the turbo... and cold air from a cai still has to pass through the tmic and be that temp.

Evil Aviator

How do you define a "ram air intake", and what would be its purpose(s)?

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Woukd be to bring it cold air rather than the hot engine bay air

Evil Aviator

Great, the stock system already does this. Done! That was easy.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I'm trying to get rid of the huge massive airbox .

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

The factory airbox is quite small... im confused.

I think you would be better off leaving it there.

Evil Aviator

You described your goal as "Woukd be to bring it cold air rather than the hot engine bay air". I have a pretty solid background in aerodynamics, and I don't see what getting rid of the air box would have to do with this goal. In fact, getting rid of the air box would cause the inlet to suck hot air from the rear of the radiator if you left everything else in place.

If you are just looking for projects to spend your time and money on, I can recommend some better choices. If you want a less-restrictive inlet, then I can comment on that too if you state your estimated engine horsepower and turbo type. However, the OEM intake fully meets your cold air requirement, so there are no other modifications necessary for this.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Actually the airbox is huge compared to a cone filter and maf adapter and the way it fits on the corksport turbo inlet duct is quite undesirable.

My goal is a smaller intake attached to my cs tid and stock maf , thst will take in cold air, though I'm not even sure how effective the cold air is when it's going to heat up after going through the turbo, I am running a stock turbo 10 psi as the goal because I'm still on the stock top mount...

I may just leave it as is for a while and collect parts to upgrade it in the future.

w0ppe

If you really want cold air, why not some dryer ducting from underneath and rout it to your intake? Do you need the extra space in the engine bay?

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

I love it when people **** on the factory air intake setup. Considering most cars use very awkward and convoluted ways of bringing cold air into the box, and by comparison our airboxes are simple and efficient.

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

I removed my windshield washer resivour which leaves a 3" hole and routed a filter down into the brake cooling duct on my t2.

it may be better to just have ducting down o there and keep a filter in a sealed area if you drive in the rain normally though

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

This is what i concider the "fender intake" and it's permance over other methods such as CAI sealed boxes in the stock location, and any kinda of cone filter left in the engine bay.
my intake temps dropped 40 degrees over stock.

the only downfall of this.. is it makes is suck up more dirt, and get dirtier faster. if you live on a dirt road or travel down one alot, i wouldn't do this.

done this 3 7s... one turbo and two n/a. you feel the difference on an n/a in the morning most.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

To be honest I think the stock airbox is hitting my hood, the corksport inlet duct is really not meant for the stock airbox, it sits in a fixed position and alters the stock airbox's position, it pretty much barely fits.

I don't need the space, I would just rather have a better intake setup, the stock setup does work great for bringing in cold air, but I think there are better ways with more flow that can be done.

The stock intake is a restriction in my opinion, although u can put some holes in the top of the airbox to increase flow I'd rather ditch the whole thing all together...

If hot air were a big deal on a turbo car I don't think people would have air filters directly attached to their compressor on the turbo when they're running a standalone, a good intercooler and meth injection will keep your temps cool when they need to be under boost.

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

If it's not a big deal then why'd you make a thread about having to deal with hot air ? I think you should just leave it be. Lol

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

I probably will for now until I get at least a meth injection kit installed or a better intercooler.

Evil Aviator

T2 = (((PR^0.28 * T1) - T1) / Et)

Assuming standard ISA temperature of 59F (591K), standard ISA pressure of 14.7psi, 10psig turbo boost, 65% turbo efficiency, and ignoring inlet pressure loss / temperature gain, then PR = (14.7+10)/14.7 = 1.68.

T2 = (((1.68^0.28 * 591) - 591) / .65) = 142F temperature gain
+ 59F = 201F (prior to the intercooler)

Reworking the equation for an extra 10F of inlet temperature...

T2 = (((1.68^0.28 * 601) - 601) / .65) = 145F temperature gain
+ 69F = 214F (prior to the intercooler)

The stock air box is a little restrictive, and it starts to become a problem over about 200hp. However, it does pull in fresh air when the car is in motion.

You made a serious error in that calculation, lol.

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

And yet comparatively speaking, a rather simple design. Then you have vehicles like the z32 which has about twenty feet of intake piping.

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

Holy -!! So how effective is the top mount at cooling the air ? 201 degrees before entering the top mount seems ridiculously hot, 214 is even worse.

My car is definitely more than 200 hp at the flywheel, mire like 240+ if I had to guess

barkz

iTrader: (1)

If you had to guess? I feel like thats what youve done with every post in this thread

wthdidusay82

iTrader: (15)

How does this response pertain to my question?

I wasn't asking for your opinion, so please refrain from ignorant comments on my thread. Thanks and God bless

Evil Aviator

Yes, but probably the biggest offenders are the Honda aftermarket CAI kits, lol. Anyway, the big problem with the TII is the TID, and the OP already replaced this. The air box is the next item to replace, but the OP's engine isn't built to the level that the air box is a crisis.

Yes, it is because I transposed one of the numbers, lol. Sorry about that, I was just using the Windows calculator and typing on the fly. Let's try this again with 519 rather than 591:

T2 = (((1.68^0.28 * 519) - 519) / .65) = 125F temperature gain
+ 59F = 184F (prior to the intercooler)

Reworking the equation for an extra 10F of inlet temperature...

T2 = (((1.68^0.28 * 529) - 529) / .65) = 127F temperature gain
+ 69F = 196F (prior to the intercooler)

The air will actually be a little hotter than this because when your manifold pressure gauge reads 10psi boost, the turbo must produce a little more than 10psi due to the pressure loss in the intercooler and inlet tract. So, it most likely goes something like this: 11psi from the compressor outlet - .2psi through the piping - .8psi through the intercooler = 10psi in the intake manifold. I'm not sure about the exact numbers, and they will increase as boost pressure and airflow increase, but that's the general idea.

Compression can make the air pretty hot.

I don't know. However, it was designed for lower boost levels, and like most OEM setups it was designed for minimal pressure loss as opposed to maximum cooling.

Let's just say that it has 60% cooling efficiency at 10psi boost. The math would go something like this: 125F temp gain * 60% = 75F, subtract that from the compressor outlet temp of 184F and you get 109F at the intercooler outlet.

In that case, I hope that you have an upgraded fuel system and an aftermarket fuel controller. Otherwise, you could be running into lean-out issues at that hp level with the stock fuel system. Also, the wastegate is probably experiencing boost creep issues if it isn't ported.

See this website for mods. It's a little old, so it doesn't address the Rtek chip that serves as a FCD and fuel controller, and the turbo information is about 2 generations behind, but it is still a pretty good reference.
FC3S Pro v2.0: From Mild 2 Wild - Power

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

ok, so not ram air, just less restrictive cold air.
a) a duct scooping outside air pointing towards a aftermarket air filter
b) piping going all the way to the front fender area
c) a airbox with tubing going to the front fender area

without fabrication, choice " a" is easy and cheapest. I think more time and effort would be better spent in othr areas, but a nice cold air intake would be cool!

Acesanugal

iTrader: (5)

Hehe, I see what you did there..