btbaus

iTrader: (3)

hello. i just got an 1990 rx7. it had no coolant in the resevior. i added some. should i add coolant into the radiator itself???. when i open the radiator cap i see no fluid.

ohh and also. can some body guide me through the best way to do the poor mans compression test. should i reach the spark plugs from above or below?

InsomniacFC

iTrader: (4)

You can add it through the rad cap, but i'd wait till it was cold. Turn the car on, turn on the heater, loosen the bleeder screw on the rad neck, fill it up till fluid comes out of that, tighten it, fill up the rest till it comes out the rad neck. Should be ok.

Poor mans compression test? Pull the egi fuse, pull the leading plugs, have a friend turn it over, and you should hear 6 even pulses per rotation. If you hear less then something is amiss.

nopistons87124

iTrader: (2)

s5 radiator doesnt have a bleeder screw. u just need to fill the rad up then start the car and let it burp keep filling until full. i would also recommend taking all spark plug wires off coils while doing compression test

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

i was taking a look at my radiator found this!



that thing being pointed to by the blue arrow... should it be connected to something? there's another one just like it on the opposite end of the radiator.

any you guys see the rust on the lower radiator hose? why did it rust? im going to change the upper and lower radiator hose along with the thermostat but does it have to be done NOW or can it wait?

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

that's for a transmission cooler (AT cars only) so it's fine to be open.

Rx-7fetish

Thats what your blue arrow is pointing at, the rust could be from the metal spring thing inside most stock rad hoses. Make sure you get a thermostat from your local mazda dealership, anything else wont allow your car to run at the proper temp, they will work just not right.

K-Tune

iTrader: (26)

i don't see rust. just looks like the fibers that run through the hose are discolored.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

nice thanks! i cant buy it from mazdatrix? http://mazdatrix.com/b9.htm its an S5

1990_fC3C_t2

My s5 rad has a bleeder screw.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

As with any used car you purchase, you need to change all the fluids and check the condition of the hoses and belts.

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/newowner.htm

Rx-7fetish

Its not reccomended, the sto one has a thing called a jiggle pin i think, anyways no aftermarket ones have this on them, you could just drill a small hole in the lip that will be highest on the t-stat

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

case closed. ill go to mazda for the thermostat.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

so i didnt want to make a new post so im just using this one.


i had this problem where the temperature gauge shoots up quickly and comes back down to normal just a fast.

ive replaced the thermostat with one from the dealership and ive changed all the coolant and heater hoses. i aligned the jiggle pin correctly too.

i thought that changing the thermostat would fix this problem but i guess not.

does anybody know what the problem is????

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Sounds like a bad gauge, sensor, or sensor wire.

The gauge temp sensor is on the engine below the oil filter. It's screwed into the rear iron side plate.

btbaus

iTrader: (3)

thank you!!

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

Sure. The factory manual available for download has methods for testing the gauge sensor. It should read a certain resistance with a multimeter at a certain temperature. Sounds more like the wire is going to the sensor is grounding out on something giving a false resistance to the gauge..

alexdimen

iTrader: (13)

In the manual it is under body electrical/meters and gauges. They call it the water temp gauge unit. The resistance is supposed to go down as the temp goes up, so if it grounded out that would be very very low resistance and would peg out the gauge to full hot.