I shouldn't be allowed to touch cars:o

He's my prob: Car was fine till I added antifreeze to the resevoir and a little under the cap. I don't know if I over filled the radiator or neglected to put the cap on tight. But my cap was off and fluid was everywhere and steaming. Well I got a replacement cap filled the radiator up, but every time I start it up, moments later I get the warning indicator buzzing at me to add coolant. I'm afraid to drive it like it is because it's already gotten too hot. Any suggestions on where I fucked up or how to get rid of the warning light?

 

Is the radiator cool when the warning buzzer comes on? I'm assuming your temp gague is above 50%.

Once you shut the car off and it cools down, is there any anti-freeze in the radiator & how much?

More details please.

 

you need to bleed the system.

 

You have an air bubble trapped in the top of the radiator. If you have a series IV car, there is a phillips-head set-screw (plastic, be careful with it!) to bleed air in the neck where the radiator hose attaches. Remove the cap on the MOTOR, not on the radiator... loosen that screw (or even remove it) and add coolant until it flows out. Replace/snug (do NOT overtighten! It will break pretty easily!) that set screw, top off the fill neck and replace the cap.

Brad

 

I just read the archives. Some people have the same problem as you. They think that the engine needs to be rebuilt due to coolant seal leak (which isn't true anyways). However, all they needed to do was do a flush to the cooling system, which is a piece of cake comparing to a rebuild.

 

Thanks for the replys guys, the warning indicator light is gone, but the upper radiator hose seems to be getting excessively hot while running. I think my thermostat may be stuck open and I can't find anything on how to unstick it. Any help would be appreciated, thanks

 

The upper radiator hose should be too hot to touch safely when the engine is at operating temp. If the 'stat is stuck open, it will be cooler than usual after normal driving, so I don't think it's that. I sounds like air in the system like everyone's saying. Bleed the system properly, then see what happens.

 

Hmmm I'm pretty sure I read that if the upper hose gets too hot, it's stuck open, but I could be mistaken. Engine temp is all good, and that was my main concern. Not sure why I was getting the add coolant warning. I knew how to bleed it and had done that. The car pretty much fixed itself. I let it sit over night and started it up the next evening and no more buzing warning light. Maybe when I pulled the fuse it fixed it, or maybe letting it sit helped? Anyway thanks again

 

even if it is your thermostat, why bother unsticking it when u can go to a parts store and get a brand new one for like $5? i usually say why bother fixing if you can get NEW for cheap

 

yeah, you prolly let air in. you need to unscrew the bleed valve (plastic screw on radiator by airbox).
note: do this when the engine is cold and coolant is going to spill out.
put the screw back in and turn on the engine and keep pouring in antifreeze/water throught the rad cap opening with the heater ON.

 

Do I have the same, or similar, problem? (Add Coolant light comes on after 10 minutes of driving, but the rad and the reservoir are full. The engine temp indicator is less than half at that point.) I've been afraid to drive farther for fear of wrecking my engine. Any advice?

 

If the car isn't overheating and blowing bubbles in the coolant, don't be afraid.
Replace the sensor. It cost like $15. It might be heat sensitive. And, make sure your coolant is topped off when engine is COLD.
I go to the trouble of making sure my hose from the radiator cap to the recovery bottle is also bubble free.
And, never use a $5 parts store thermostat. Those things suck and will cause problems. Always use Mazda thermostats.

Yes, cars can fix themselves. Heat cycling will allow vapor to exit the cap and hopefully during cooling, coolant will be pulled back into the radiator. I never did care for the lenth of the reservoir bottle hose.

 

NEVER put anything but a Mazda OEM thermostat in your car. Cheap insurance. The aftermarket ones for our cars are CRAP.

Brad