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Radiator to parts list

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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 11:11 AM
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Radiator to parts list


ughh well look at this thing... Gonna be doing water pump too so probably gonna just replace rad, put efan in block off my non working omp and upgrade alternator while im at it. Never ending struggle to get to the track.




And one of the bolts holding it in was barley holding it in lol
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 12:01 PM
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So radiator is out n then I see this. It sure inst the oil cooler i thought id see so what is it for the a/c? thats my oil cooler in 2nd pic looks like **** too...



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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 12:30 PM
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Radiator to parts list

first pic second post is your a/c condensor, yank it out if you don't have a/c anymore, will help cool better too
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 12:50 PM
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Originally Posted by lduley
first pic second post is your a/c condensor, yank it out if you don't have a/c anymore, will help cool better too
Ok clears that up, ac is still hooked up and p/s. It was working when i got the car until I fixed the idle. Then it would just idle rough when it was on so Ive left it off. Might mess with it again after all this important stuff gets done. Not to ideal for a track car but I do enjoy the p/s. Im only gonna autox for now so seems smart to keep it also.
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 12:54 PM
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Also found this part broken. I believe i have a spare from my other fc.
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Old Jun 13, 2015 | 02:54 PM
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roTAR needz fundZ
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Radiator to parts list

that would explain your running rough with ac on
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by lduley
that would explain your running rough with ac on
Really?
That broken piece is the checkvalve for the secondary throttle plates, not sure what it has to do with AC.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 11:18 AM
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Radiator to parts list

Originally Posted by clokker
Really?
That broken piece is the checkvalve for the secondary throttle plates, not sure what it has to do with AC.
that wouldn't create a vacuum leak?
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 01:55 PM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by lduley
that wouldn't create a vacuum leak?
it is a vacuum leak until the engine warms up and the valve turns off.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 01:59 PM
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The oil coolers always look like hell but rarely leak. They take a lot of abuse from stones and stuff over the years. The only thing that leaks with them is the lines, and looks like yours have been replaced already.
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Old Jun 14, 2015 | 05:18 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
it is a vacuum leak until the engine warms up and the valve turns off.
ah ha, I see
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 01:42 PM
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So I got all the water pump bolts nuts off and the whole housing came off when I tried to separate it from the pump. So problem is I guess this pulley needs to come of the get the pump and housing off. Am I just taking off those 2 10mm nuts and then the outer part comes off the pulley? Don't wanna mess with it till I am sure. And the main nut there that should be the one where you hold the clutch down with a 2x4 or something right. Do I need to do this its not to clear in the write up I read.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 02:42 PM
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Found this and seems like its just those 2 bolts holding on the hub. Am I missing 2 bolts there and still not 100 percent on this if someone wants to chime in.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 03:11 PM
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yes there should be 4 bolts in there
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
yes there should be 4 bolts in there
ok cool got those 2 out and nothing happened pulley stuck. now what?


Then when taking out omp I found the top screw was broken. fml lol. help!!!

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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 09:17 PM
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Slow down there brotha . You realize your playing with the timing pulley right ? make sure you mount it exactly the way you took it off and not try and force the bolts to line up when reinstalling . There is one offset hole out of the 4 , some people don't understand that and waddle the holes out . Which now screws you If you go to check timing cause the marks aren't true to there spot . And make sure to install two more bolts . Don't remove the center 19mm bolt . That would really suck if you did . Spray some pb blaster around the pulley where it meets the hub and give it a few light of taps on each side . It will break lose . As far as the Omp . Be careful and try and easy out bolt . If not . Then rtv for the win and a thick homemade gasket . I've heard of people using 2 dimes to keep the rod with the gear from bounce around behind the gasket and block off plate . Just don't snap the only bolt left trying to tighten it . On my rebuild I taped and plugged that galley port at the front iron and cover where they meet

Last edited by unek87; Jun 15, 2015 at 09:28 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2015 | 09:48 PM
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Originally Posted by unek87
Slow down there brotha . You realize your playing with the timing pulley right ? make sure you mount it exactly the way you took it off and not try and force the bolts to line up when reinstalling . There is one offset hole out of the 4 , some people don't understand that and waddle the holes out . Which now screws you If you go to check timing cause the marks aren't true to there spot . And make sure to install two more bolts . Don't remove the center 19mm bolt . That would really suck if you did . Spray some pb blaster around the pulley where it meets the hub and give it a few light of taps on each side . It will break lose . As far as the Omp . Be careful and try and easy out bolt . If not . Then rtv for the win and a thick homemade gasket . I've heard of people using 2 dimes to keep the rod with the gear from bounce around behind the gasket and block off plate . Just don't snap the only bolt left trying to tighten it . On my rebuild I taped and plugged that galley port at the front iron and cover where they meet
I didn't get any further. And I did not remove the center nut. I did turn the pulley a little bit to look for these timing marks. Only saw 2 little notches on the pulley closest to keg. Didnt notice anything on the p/s air pump pulley. Ill get a mallet in the morning along with a bolt extractor and pb blaster. Hoping for better luck tomorrow haha.
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 08:37 AM
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could try spinning the broken bolt out by hand with a little pick. doubtful, but you never know. could get lucky
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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 11:30 AM
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Originally Posted by welfare
could try spinning the broken bolt out by hand with a little pick. doubtful, but you never know. could get lucky
Bought me one of these





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Old Jun 16, 2015 | 05:27 PM
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Got all the oil injectors plugged, crazy 1 was loose. 1 almost didnt come out lol. Still cant get that pulley off...



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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 09:23 AM
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should probably use sealing washers on those plugs
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Old Jun 17, 2015 | 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by welfare
should probably use sealing washers on those plugs
Definitely thought I should too, crap. Well im gonna pull em and put the oil injectors washer on. I had it on one then decided not to since I didnt do it on the 1st one I changed out. Thanks for the heads up.
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Old Jun 20, 2015 | 12:52 PM
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So just found out about pulley pullers. Found tons of different ones. Yall think this one
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Old Jun 28, 2015 | 08:51 AM
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Got the pulleys off. Took a min but with them off the w/p housing came right off. Pretty shocked as there were no gaskets between housing or w/p. Found tiny pinholes at ends of the housing where lower rad hose hooks up. So pulling my other w/p housing off to see if its in better shape which it should be. How much rtv sealant should i use? Do yall put it on both sides of the gaskets?
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Old Jul 6, 2015 | 06:41 PM
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Well been working on her and made the purchase for a flyuidline radiator. Im pretty excited except i have a new problemo. The new water pump pulley wasn't lining up right. My dad was always good at telling me to match the parts up before you install and ill be dammed if this new water pump (courtesy of mazdatrix) seems like the shaft of the water pump look good but the part the water pump pulley and fan hook up to is not pressed in far enough. Whats the fix for this? The pump looks identical besides the 1/4" difference of that part of it. Help and ty as usual lol

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