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Radiator and FMIC question

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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 07:33 AM
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Radiator and FMIC question

I have a 1989 T2 and I want to up grade the cooling system. I was wondering If I get an aftermarket radiator wouldI be able to throw out the fan shroud assembly and the fan?
and for the FMIC, would I have to take off the A/C to make room for the FMIC?
thanks for help and suggestions.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 07:45 AM
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You can only get rid of the fan shroud and fan if you are installing an E-fan. Many people have had cooling issues with electric fans, you really are better off with the clutch fan and shroud. We recommend Koyo, if you are really going to be pushing the car install the N-Flo http://banzai-racing.com/store/86-91_rx-7_radiator.html


The Greddy FMIC fits fine with the A/C, if you are making something custom, then it depends on how you route the piping. http://banzai-racing.com/store/86-91...tercooler.html
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by NBR Systems
I have a 1989 T2 and I want to up grade the cooling system. I was wondering If I get an aftermarket radiator wouldI be able to throw out the fan shroud assembly and the fan?
and for the FMIC, would I have to take off the A/C to make room for the FMIC?
thanks for help and suggestions.
why would you want to throw those away? you seriously think the Radiator can cool itself off without a fan ?

You need to do more homework on your car.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 09:16 PM
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nygcps I understand That is why I was thinking of the E-fan.
but I didnt fully understand if I kept the fan shroud.
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Old Jun 14, 2010 | 11:25 PM
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Most Electrical fan will not be able to pull more air than stock Clutch fan. the only bad thing
about it is that its taking a lot of space. and the stock fan shroud is pretty good if u ask me.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 03:25 AM
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my Ford Taurus E-fan pulls 2300cfm on low and 4500cfm on hi. works fine if you install it correctly so it works using the fan thermoswitch.



nycgps your fd =

Last edited by GOT-RTRY; Jun 15, 2010 at 03:34 AM.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 05:26 AM
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thanks for the information.
now what brands would you recommend?
I was thinking to go with a koyo racing radiator.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 12:55 PM
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thats what i have, but im not big on radiator knowledge
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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GOT-RTRY, no one said there were not e-fans that could out-flow the stock fan; just that most can't. Taurus fans can pull a lot of air through the radiator, but it will also take around ~33A continuously to do it (high setting). It looks like you're using a 70A S4 alternator, so that's not the best for that setup. Stepping up to a more powerful alternator is pretty critical when going with such a powerful fan. My S4 alternator was not happy trying to supply my 12A fan, let alone one that pulls 33A.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NBR Systems
thanks for the information.
now what brands would you recommend?
I was thinking to go with a koyo racing radiator.
i was always a fan of fluidyne radiators i'll be buying one for mine along with a e fan setup. i'd suggest doing a FD alt upgrade or atleast a higher output one if going to a e fan setup.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 08:36 PM
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Thanks.
So the T2 alt wont be as strong as the FD?
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 08:37 PM
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and what brand of e-fan would you recommend?
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 09:38 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryRocket88
GOT-RTRY, no one said there were not e-fans that could out-flow the stock fan; just that most can't. Taurus fans can pull a lot of air through the radiator, but it will also take around ~33A continuously to do it (high setting). It looks like you're using a 70A S4 alternator, so that's not the best for that setup. Stepping up to a more powerful alternator is pretty critical when going with such a powerful fan. My S4 alternator was not happy trying to supply my 12A fan, let alone one that pulls 33A.
I am aware of what was said, i was just giving an example of one that could. I should have worded it better and the flag was all in good fun.

i did noticed a little power draw from the fan, its running on the low function since i don't have A/C. what's a good alternator for the setup. (I want the pineapple racing bracket)

sorry for the thread jack but its relevant right?

Last edited by GOT-RTRY; Jun 15, 2010 at 09:49 PM.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by NBR Systems
and what brand of e-fan would you recommend?
i always heard goood things on flex a lite fans they will be who i'll most likely go with look at link. http://www.flex-a-lite.com/auto/html/electric-fans.html but there are other companies out there that are good to. just got to look for the CFM and AMP draw on them find the best CFM and the least AMP draw you can find if worried about the alternator not charging enough. as for the T2 alt i had a s5 T2 and bought the upgrade from a forum member years back that sold FD alts to swap into s5's.
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 10:02 PM
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[QUOTE=GOT-RTRY;10058125]

my Ford Taurus E-fan pulls 2300cfm on low and 4500cfm on hi. works fine if you install it correctly so it works using the fan thermoswitch.



nycgps your fd = [/QUOTEyour ]

fan setup looks good. i have a trashed chevy llumina with a e fan i'm thinking about using for a project
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 10:19 PM
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[QUOTE=NBR Systems;10059565]and what brand of e-fan would you recommend?[/QUOTE

the best rad fan is the fan from a mercury villager or nissan quest mid to late ninties models they are perfect

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...end+all+be+all

that is a write up for it
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Old Jun 15, 2010 | 10:55 PM
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Originally Posted by GOT-RTRY


my Ford Taurus E-fan pulls 2300cfm on low and 4500cfm on hi. works fine if you install it correctly so it works using the fan thermoswitch.



nycgps your fd =
notice I said MOST I didn't say all. you know what Most/All means right ?

my point is : if your Stock Clutch fan has failed then maybe its a good time to go for E-fan.

but if the stock clutch fan works just fine @ cooling stuff down. what is the point of having the a e-fan(plus all the work) ?
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 05:35 AM
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Koyo is a far better radiator than Fluidyne, it is thicker, has better welds and does not use the petcock drain that always fails.

Most people that have cooling issues associated with e-fans, have FMICs or they install a fan with no shroud. We have found that our water temps climb when the A/C is on in our vert, I have contemplated installing a clutch fan and shroud. We have the largest CFM fan that will fit the FC radiator from Flex-a-lite.

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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by nycgps
notice I said MOST I didn't say all. you know what Most/All means right ?

my point is : if your Stock Clutch fan has failed then maybe its a good time to go for E-fan.

but if the stock clutch fan works just fine @ cooling stuff down. what is the point of having the a e-fan(plus all the work) ?
hey maybe you should bother to read my second post before taking stabs at my intelligence. i agree with you. i was just posting one that would work. the flag was a joke! even though you hurt my feelings i still like your fd.
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by GOT-RTRY
hey maybe you should bother to read my second post before taking stabs at my intelligence. i agree with you. i was just posting one that would work. the flag was a joke! even though you hurt my feelings i still like your fd.
more like u hurt my feelings.

now you go to hell you die !
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Old Jun 16, 2010 | 11:41 PM
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Wicked clean engine bay Banzai. Can you show what the corner notch in your efan shroud looks like to clear the upper water tube elbow.
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Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:07 PM
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When you say "...water temps climb when the A/C is on..." how many degrees are we talking about? over 205? 210? . I'm revamping the A/C system now and will be going w/ a FMIC (more of a middle mount actually) in the near future.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 06:03 AM
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Banzai- I had a "3800" CFM fan and shroud and I was not happy with the temps, after much debate I decided to give the taurus set up a try- I have to say it just does not compare to the other one, temps never get over 200 now. It took alot for me to give the fan a try as I was putting my faith in the one I had. To be honest I dont know if its the shroud design or what but I originally had a 2800 fan and I really do not think it worked any different then the 3800

I think I am going to check out this villager fan as I hear it fits the radiator a little better
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by cone_crushr
Wicked clean engine bay Banzai. Can you show what the corner notch in your efan shroud looks like to clear the upper water tube elbow.
Here is a pic




Originally Posted by sharingan 19
When you say "...water temps climb when the A/C is on..." how many degrees are we talking about? over 205? 210? . I'm revamping the A/C system now and will be going w/ a FMIC (more of a middle mount actually) in the near future.
I turn the A/C off when the temps reach 101C (214F), then they drop back down. I see these same temps on stock FD's with the A/C on. I just don't like seeing them that high.


Originally Posted by Rob XX 7
Banzai- I had a "3800" CFM fan and shroud and I was not happy with the temps, after much debate I decided to give the taurus set up a try- I have to say it just does not compare to the other one, temps never get over 200 now. It took alot for me to give the fan a try as I was putting my faith in the one I had. To be honest I dont know if its the shroud design or what but I originally had a 2800 fan and I really do not think it worked any different then the 3800

I think I am going to check out this villager fan as I hear it fits the radiator a little better
I had the 2800 prior to this one and basically have come to a similar conclusion about the 3800. Again I am tempted to just put a clutch fan & shroud back in to see if all the temps stay in check. I do not have any problems with customers' cars that run FMIC's and the stock fan.

Of course keeping the A/C in the Vert is aggravating the issue, but it sure is nice on those hot days to have the top down and ice cold A/C blowing

Like to hear what you think of the Villager fan, if you try it.
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Old Jun 18, 2010 | 10:12 AM
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fiero e-fan on mine. Never had cooling problems. Just wire it in correctly.
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