radiator flush/oil change
06-28-08, 02:41 AM
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radiator flush/oil change
ok so i got a 1988 convertible with 140000 miles 2 weeks ago and i noticed that the person who had it b4 me dint use antifreeze just regular water.(keep in mind i do live in Florida so its always hot here) anyways i was told to drain all the water from my radiator and do a mix of antifreeze and water because it is better for the car. how do i drain my radiator correctly and what antifreeze should i get also what is the right mix for my climate. the other thing is i want to do an oil change and was wondering what is the best oil/oil filter for my car. also when i do an oil change im suppose to drain the oil from the oil cooling system thats under the radiator right?
06-28-08, 02:51 AM
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Personally, I use OEM oil filters plus Motul Synthetic. The oil thing usually turns into a debate, so I'll just say this. Run whatever oil you want; if synthetic make sure it is a GOOD brand (Royal Purple/Motul/etc.), or else run dino.
If you want the absolute best oil for your car, buy Idemitsu.
If you want the absolute best oil for your car, buy Idemitsu.
06-28-08, 10:53 AM
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Pure water is very bad for the cooling system. It contains no corrosion inhibitors, and it does not lubricate the water pump.
You'll find all the maintenance procedures in the appropriate service manuals.
The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.
That said, draining the coolant is easy. Remove the underbelly pan, open the rad fill cap and then remove the drain plug on the bottom of the rad carefully with a BIG Phillips screwdriver. Once the rad is drained, open the block drain located in the drivers engine mount.
Don't bother draining the oil cooler. It's a pain in the butt and not worth it.
Use whatever brand oil you want, with a weight appropriate to the temperature (see FSM).
You'll find all the maintenance procedures in the appropriate service manuals.
The Factory Service Manual can be found in the FAQ For FC thread. It contains all this information and more, and is an essential tool for any sort of service work that needs to be performed on these cars.
Additionally, the Haynes service manual for the 1986 thru 1991 RX-7 (both turbo and NA) can be found at most local auto parts stores or purchased from any good bookstore (ISBN number 1 56392 007 7). It is only about $25 and is a great quick reference for things like this. Not only does it contain most of the information in the FSM condensed into an easy to read format, but it includes full wiring diagrams as well.
These manuals will answer 99% of service related questions for the car and if you intend to do your own repair work, you will need at least one of them. Preferably both, since the FSM is a free download.
That said, draining the coolant is easy. Remove the underbelly pan, open the rad fill cap and then remove the drain plug on the bottom of the rad carefully with a BIG Phillips screwdriver. Once the rad is drained, open the block drain located in the drivers engine mount.
Don't bother draining the oil cooler. It's a pain in the butt and not worth it.
Use whatever brand oil you want, with a weight appropriate to the temperature (see FSM).
06-29-08, 09:48 AM
#6
Heh, Aaron ftw.
For the brand of oil and weight check the forum FAQ.
For the oil filter, anything except FRAM aka Quakerstate aka Penzoil is good enough, though some (like OEM) are even better.
For antifreeze, any ethylene glycol antifreeze safe for aluminum will work fine.
For water, distilled water is better than tap water because it doesn't leave sediment. Especially if you have hard tap water.
For the brand of oil and weight check the forum FAQ.
For the oil filter, anything except FRAM aka Quakerstate aka Penzoil is good enough, though some (like OEM) are even better.
For antifreeze, any ethylene glycol antifreeze safe for aluminum will work fine.
For water, distilled water is better than tap water because it doesn't leave sediment. Especially if you have hard tap water.
06-29-08, 10:21 AM
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Fram filters are fine. There are two on my car right now, and about a billion on the road in other vehicles right now as well. 
Just don't buy into any of that "extended life" crap or the little additive capsules that some manufacturers are now putting in their filters.
Yes, I should have mentioned that the only coolant to be used is ethylene glycol; the green stuff.
Just don't buy into any of that "extended life" crap or the little additive capsules that some manufacturers are now putting in their filters.Yes, I should have mentioned that the only coolant to be used is ethylene glycol; the green stuff.
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06-29-08, 11:28 AM
#8
Out of curiosity, which FRAM? I read there was one FRAM of poor construction. Not that they'd necessary break from it, but it's piece of mind I guess. I think the extra guard is the bad one. The rest still have paper endcaps rather than metal but that's not supposed to matter much.
Here's the wikipedia summary
The site is http://www.knizefamily.net/minimopar...reference.html.
Outside of the cheap (but otherwise usable) materials the main issue the site mentions seems to be the anti drain back valve that might fail, only on the FRAM extra guard. Rotaries seem to have minimal problems with wear, so I wonder if you'd ever notice even if it did. If I understand correctly, without an anti-drain back valve a filter would release a little dirty oil back into the oil pan every time you shut off the engine. The site mentions problems with a noisy valve train, which rotaries don't even have.
But in the meantime I suppose I won't bother singling out FRAM except in detailed discussions. Outside of the cheap materials, who knows if it actually functions worse?
Here's the wikipedia summary
Originally Posted by Wikipedia
A website entitled "Oil Filters Revealed" [4] has created some controversy about Honeywells use of paper oil filter media and cardboard internal end caps in Fram oil filters. In this study, multiple oil filters were dissected and compared. The study determined that competitors in the same price range use different materials, such as metal or plastic for endcaps, and blended or synthetic filter media. While the lower cost materials create concerns of perceived quality, no quantified performance or durability comparisons have been made.
Outside of the cheap (but otherwise usable) materials the main issue the site mentions seems to be the anti drain back valve that might fail, only on the FRAM extra guard. Rotaries seem to have minimal problems with wear, so I wonder if you'd ever notice even if it did. If I understand correctly, without an anti-drain back valve a filter would release a little dirty oil back into the oil pan every time you shut off the engine. The site mentions problems with a noisy valve train, which rotaries don't even have.
But in the meantime I suppose I won't bother singling out FRAM except in detailed discussions. Outside of the cheap materials, who knows if it actually functions worse?
Last edited by ericgrau; 06-29-08 at 11:52 AM.
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