When installing the Racing Beat full 3" exhaust system on a TurboII, what modifications are necessary? I have a Fuel Cut Defense, and an Apex AFC installed: do I need any other mods to safely run this exhaust?

Thanks,
Joe

 

i didn't know they made a 3". i always thougt it was like 21/2". but anyway, you should be alright with that, just check your cats to make sure they're clean. that'll give some extra power (and flames) if you gut those bastards.

 

boost gauge and a bigger fuel pump (e.g. Walbro 255)

 

3isacharm:
the racing beat full exhaust is 3.15" from the turbo to the y-pipe, then into 2 i think 2.5" pipes. it removes all the cats and has a presilencer where the main cat would be. you are probbably thinking of their catback system...

 

is there some way to make the stock boost gauge accurate again? I hate the thought of it sitting there useless...

 

No, the FCD (which you need with the RB unless you like hitting fuel cut and blown motor) disables the stock gauge.

Besides, on an S4, 40 mmHg is only about 7.7 PSI. With those mods, you should easily be hitting more


This is a good list, prices may not be exactly right..


RB Full turbo back .. $750
Walbro Fuel pump... $100
FCD........................... $75
autometer boost gauge..$50
S-AFC........................$275

____
$1250

NOT BAD

 

boost gauge and maybe a fuel pump. u should be ok with just a boost gauge though with no other mods

 

hrm... iread somewhere, where you can still use the stock boost gauge

 

again??? LOL

get a boost gauge first. anything over 10psi and let off the gas! do you still have the stock intake on? that'll help prevent you from blowing the engine...

 

how?
I was thinking would u be able to install a N/A dash with a oil pressure gauge instead of the stock boost one and then set up an aftermarket guage elsewhere

hows that sound?

 

it is found here

The stock boost sensor is good to around 14psi or so I believe - I think it's a 2 bar sensor.

The signal wire from the stock boost sensor T's behind the glovebox - one wire goes to the boost gauge, the other to the ECU. If you tap your FCD straight in at the ECU, the stock boost gauge will show the "real" reading. With my old FCON, the stock boost gauge went to the second "O" in "boost" .

You're putting too much thought into this one - just wire it up and go have fun. It works, it's easy, there's no big deal here.

Dale



quoted from
http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...&threadid=4895

 

My FDC was burned into my ECU when I had it reprogrammed, So the stock guage still works on my car. I wonder if I can break the needle

 

you might want to invest in some 720cc secondaries in case you start to run lean under heavy boost. Even with SAFC, you might run lean when you hit 10-13lbs of boost. Injectors and fuel pump are you main things.

- Kevin

 

I thought the RB turbo back system only went to 10-11psi

 

with stock intake on a 89 I was hitting 9. 87-88 more. add an intake and you are at 15

 

i have an FCD and my boost gauge still works. it reads really really low, but it still works. could that be a problem?

 

Well, I originally had a 87 Turbo II with plenty of mods. I had the K&N cone filter, FCD, RP Pulleys, Jacobs Ignition, Taylor wires, Electric fan, Apex AFC and the RB Exhaust system on. The car ran GREAT for about a day, then it blew. Its obvious that i ran it too lean, but I just wanted to see what mods every says. I talked to Rick of Rick's Rotary Performance, and he suggested the HKS F-CON, but since im a broke college student I couldnt afford to buy it. So as it turns out, I blew up my motor. I did however buy a JDM 89-91 motor to swap in...but the wiring is completely different. I dont suggest anybody try to drop a S5 into a S4, or vice a versa...jsut too hard. Anyways, I got rid of the car (had too many other problems anyways). But I still have my RB exhaust, S5 tail lights, Pulleys, and wires. YAY! So if anyone is looking to sell a Turbo II balck on dark leather in the bay area, hit me up!

thanks,
Joe S.

 

I want mine to read accurately

I like this idea ALOT

 

it never was, it never will be, buy a real one. if you can't afford $50 for a gauge, you certainly shoudln't be playing around with moding a turbo II....

 

I just reckon having a guage sitting there showing the completely wrong reading seems realy gay, ie I like the idea of having things looking factory, or near to that atleast, how about this?It should be possible right???

 

On the N/A the boost gauge replaces the voltmeter, not the oil pressure gauge...

 

ok then, well is it possible?