hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

I came across a set for around 1000 bucks and I'm strongly debating on wether or not to purchase them.

They are meant to be used as race rotor for high horsepower applications.

Some specs on the rotors:
addition to having the circlips machined into the race rotors, they have also had the folowing modifications:

-Race clearancing for high rpm/high horsepower operation to prevent rotor to iron housing contact

-Balanced rotors and front counterweight (front counterweight IS INCLUDED) for sustained high power/rpm operation

-MFR (MAZDA FACTORY RACING) deep groove rotor bearings installed by Racing Beat

Again, one these race rotors are sold, you will most likely never see another new pair for sale again, ever.

Racing Beat part number for these Race Rotors was : 10035 (x2)

Racing Beat part number for race clearancing: 10040 (x2)

Racing Beat part number for balancing: 11042 (x1)

Racing Beat part number for MFR bearings: 10045 (x2)





What does everyone think? Considering new rotors are about 635 each .. or around 1300 shipped for the pair, this seems like a fairly reasonable price.

Opinions?

farberio

iTrader: (7)

Without the rear coutnerweight/flywheel then they are useless. You will need to get it rebalanced with your new counterweight/flywheel.

What exactly is circlipped? Do you mean Scallops?

RacerXtreme7

iTrader: (2)

No, he means circlipped. The rotor gears are held in place via a circlip, like an "E-Clip" but not "E" shaped rather just a big C. A groove is cut onto the rotor for the circlip to sit in. If you plan on making some serious power and need rotors anyway, then YA, get them. If this is for your street car wih minimal modss, then spend your money elsewere.

~Mike.............

farberio

iTrader: (7)

So these are (or are like) the aluminum racing beat 2 piece rotors.

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

rear counterweight is an extra 80

RETed

Are you going to spin the motor over 9kRPM?
Are you planning to make over 600hp from a 13B?

If you answer NO to both, these things are a waste of time.


-Ted

classicauto

iTrader: (3)

Unless you needed rotors for a build and planned on goign OEM, then these are a pretty good deal. But still overkill for stockish to 400hp application.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

on an s4 motor with s4 manifold etc and a bigger turbo you aren't going to make power much over 7000. My motor made 386 @ 7200 on a T04S and then the power flattened out pretty fast. I never go over 8k.

RETed

I buy 8.5:1 rotors off eBay all day for about $100 a pop.
That reason really isn't valid.


-Ted

hurleysurf24

iTrader: (3)

ret ... im trying to put together a bullet proof engine for autox applications (but can also be street driven).

so im trying to use new parts which is retardedly expensive unfortunately.
i guess i may break down and use low compression s4 rotors in my engine if thats what it comes down too.

Roen

iTrader: (2)

I think Ted's point is that these race rotors only have additional protection benefits above 9k, below that, durability is about the same.

initial D is REAL!

how much do these rotors weigh? compression?

Black91n/a

The circlip prevents the rotor gear from working its way out of the rotor, which apparently can be an issue at 9k+ rpm's. The clearancing will also allow you to spin them that fast. The bearings are just higher quality, with better oiling. Other than that they'd be stock rotors.