my TII's still trying to get the first start, and I dunno if it's flooded or not getting enough spark, but would push starting it fast enough help if it wasn't getting spark in the first place?

 

oh, and stop telling me to search because the search is pretty unaccurate and has nothing to do with what I actually search for.

 

Push-starting is for when the battery is flat or the starter motor doesn't work, nothing else. If you can crank the motor at normal cranking speed then you don't need to push-start.

If you think it's flooded then pull out the EGI fuse and the leading spark plugs, hold the throttle wide open and crank the motor over for 5-10 seconds (no more). Replace the fuse and plugs and try to start the engine normally (don't touch the gas).

If you think it's not getting spark, pull a leading spark plug out, plug it into its lead, hold the plug's electrode against a strut tower nut with pliers and have someone crank the engine over. Watch for spark.

 

thanks about the push starting info. I actually just tried to check if it had spark, and I had my brother crank it, but I couldn't see any spark. And I don't know what i'm missing. although there is one wire i'm missing that's next to the coils. I'm hoping it's not a ground. I'll see if I can get a pic up. or if anyone can get a pic of the wiring that's important to the igniter

 

I guess there is no reason for some of the board members to have to push start their rebuilds if it starts with low compression then even though they've only been able to get them to start that way?

 

Some people on this forum are way to opinionated for thier own good.

I have used push starting several times to get severly flooded motors going without risking damage by using ATF and all the other snake oils to "build up" compression.

All I do is tie off some cushions to my truck bumper, have the Mrs. Rat drive up to the bumper of the FC. Then I put the FC in gear, key on, first gear. Have the Mrs start pushing the car while the engine spins up. I keep the pedal floored. Once it catches, it usually pulls away from the truck, which at that point the Mrs. brakes the truck and lets me proceed on my way.

Done this several times with no incident. Not so hard now, is it? It also saves life on your poor little starter by avoiding constant cranking to deflood motors.

 

I prefer pull starting with a chain....same concept though.

 

thanks, I think I should try your idea with the truck. hopefully it's at least getting a little spark, because I think I may have missed a ground wire that's stopping it from sparking. And I have no idea where the ground wires are for that or where they are. does anyone know which wires are the most important for the coils and igniters? and maybe what they look like? it would be appreciated, getting another rx7 on the road after I've been trying to for 1 year and 2 swaps. i've been patient enough

 

No disagreement here.

I don't use snake oil, I use engine oil. You seem to be implying that that there's something wrong with this, but it's the oil that's been washed off the chamber walls that causes the loss of compression. A small amount of oil in each chamber will start virtually any flooded engine unless it's terminally worn.

I never said it was, but I think it's a royal waste of time and effort on an engine that can turn itself over at proper cranking speed. Using another car and another person (and pillows...) versus a short crank to clear the chambers and a small squirt of oil in each chamber just does make much sense in my opinion.

As long as you don't crank for more than 10 seconds a time and let it cool in-between it'll be fine. But if you really need to crank it over and over to clear it you should be pulling spark plugs anyway, so you might as well save your poor little starter and just stick some oil in.

You can pull your car up and down the street until you grow old, but if it doesn't have spark it'll never start! Check that first.

The coil packs are grounded through their bodies to the chassis. They have no ground wires. Don't go grounding any wires until you know exactly what they are.

 

When my FB started losing compression, Id have to park on hills and compression start it. It doesnt take much speed, turn the key on, put it in second, and pop the clutch at 5-10 mph. Works every time.

 

Nope, I have no issue with adding ENGINE oil to raise compression... Its ATF I have an issue with, and that seems to be the preferred method.


Sometimes, vehicles can get severely flooded, and may require removal of the plugs/extended cranking.I further disagree that EVERY motor can be cleared with a little oil, I think some that have sat for years/etc can be more easily started with a little push! But thats my opinion.

Yep, I just re-read the original post. Tow it fast enough even though it has no spark... Uhh.. Not even going to touch that...

 

Hehe....Ms. Rat.

I agree...push starting is often the easiest and quickest way to get a severely flooded car running again. If the car is flooded badly and the battery is already weak from repeated attempts at unflooding, push starting is the way to go. I keep a set of old blankets in the garage to punch in the hatch and drape over the bumper. Put the thing in 2nd gear and push it up to about 30, then slip the clutch and it will start immediately. Also good for certain rebuilds with used housings...

 

Only preferred by those who are clueless.