Quick idle adjustment screw clockwise question??
08-30-04, 07:13 PM
#1
Quick idle adjustment screw clockwise question??
I have read that if u have the car at normal operating temp. and u turn the idle adjustment screw ontop the intake all the was clockwise untill u cant turn it anymore and if the engine dosent stall that u have a vac leak somewhere right, i mean in simpler words if u turn it all the way clockwise and the car dosent stall, that means u have a vac leak,
Please help, and yes ive already searched.
Please help, and yes ive already searched.
08-30-04, 07:26 PM
#2
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Well, since turning it CCW increases your idle speed (with the initial set coupler jumpered), that might make sense...Just make sure your coupler is jumpered, or the BAC will take over and keep your idle alive no matter how far you turn the idle adjust screw...
Just read that you've got an S5- I don't know how you guys bypass the BAC- shorting it to ground, or something like that...
Just read that you've got an S5- I don't know how you guys bypass the BAC- shorting it to ground, or something like that...
08-30-04, 07:34 PM
#5
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IIRC, you S5 guys have a single pin yellow plug that you short to ground for the initial set...If I'm wrong I'm sure I'll hear about it, lol....
I guess just unplugging the BAC would accomplish the same...
I guess just unplugging the BAC would accomplish the same...
08-30-04, 07:42 PM
#6
Ok yeah i unpluged the electical plug on the Bac and turned the screw on the intake all the way clockwise and the car still didnt stall,,, any more ideas i read this on this page http://www.geocities.com/huguesdc1/faqidle.html
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08-30-04, 08:46 PM
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my car stalls........how do I set the idle screw to the right spot? My idle is high for the first 10 minutes(2K RPM) and then low afterwards(100-200 RPMS)......my timing is way off too.....I set the CAS to the right setting(FSM) and it never idles right......
08-30-04, 08:59 PM
#16
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RX7boy- hell, why don't you just block off the damn intake pipe forward of the AFM? You're trying to accomplish the same thing by completely closing the throttle passages...
madrx7- I had that problem, too, with the fresh rebuild- the CAS had to be off a little (maybe 5*) for a smooth idle, then as she broke in a little I slowly tweaked it back to the timing marks. Even now, she runs better about 2* advanced than she does with the marks exactly dead nuts...Experiment with different CAS settings, just don't get her too far off. It makes more sense to have the engine idle & run smooth with the CAS a little off, than to doggedly adjust it to the marks and make her run rough all the time...Of course, you may have other problems too...
madrx7- I had that problem, too, with the fresh rebuild- the CAS had to be off a little (maybe 5*) for a smooth idle, then as she broke in a little I slowly tweaked it back to the timing marks. Even now, she runs better about 2* advanced than she does with the marks exactly dead nuts...Experiment with different CAS settings, just don't get her too far off. It makes more sense to have the engine idle & run smooth with the CAS a little off, than to doggedly adjust it to the marks and make her run rough all the time...Of course, you may have other problems too...
08-30-04, 09:41 PM
#18
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No, I understand perfectly what you're trying to accomplish, just don't agree with the manner in which you are trying to do it...
There are several alternative methods for finding vac leaks that don't involve making adjustments to systems that, if running properly, shouldn't be messed with.
Have you tried to pressurize the intake system yet? I've read of several guys that went that route and found their leaks...And I would imagine that blocking off the intake (or most of it, you don't want to kill her) forward of the AFM while idling would get any vac leak to start making some noise...
There are several alternative methods for finding vac leaks that don't involve making adjustments to systems that, if running properly, shouldn't be messed with.
Have you tried to pressurize the intake system yet? I've read of several guys that went that route and found their leaks...And I would imagine that blocking off the intake (or most of it, you don't want to kill her) forward of the AFM while idling would get any vac leak to start making some noise...
08-30-04, 10:04 PM
#20
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I've read a couple of threads on it in the last couple of months- see if a search pulls anything up, but it's fairly straightforward- use compressed air to pressurize the system from an easily adaptable location, then listen for the leaks. Engine doesn't have to be running, so no background noise to throw you off...
08-30-04, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by WAYNE88N/A
madrx7- I had that problem, too, with the fresh rebuild- the CAS had to be off a little (maybe 5*) for a smooth idle, then as she broke in a little I slowly tweaked it back to the timing marks. Even now, she runs better about 2* advanced than she does with the marks exactly dead nuts...Experiment with different CAS settings, just don't get her too far off. It makes more sense to have the engine idle & run smooth with the CAS a little off, than to doggedly adjust it to the marks and make her run rough all the time...Of course, you may have other problems too...
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