2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992) 1986-1992 Discussion including performance modifications and technical support sections.

quick help please. cant get rear housing off

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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 03:49 AM
  #1  
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Angry quick help please. cant get rear housing off

yeah its frustrating. i cant get the rear housing off. i think its becuae there is no play in the essentric shaft. i diddnt take BOTH pulleys off in the front, just the water pump pulley and housing. do i have to take the other pulley off to get the rear rotar housing off? or is there some trick.

steve
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 05:05 AM
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The front hub bolt has to come off to tear the whole engine down.

Wouldn't keep the rear side housing from coming off, nor the rear rotor housing, But you'll start having problems when you try to take off the intermediate housing and the rest of the engine.
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 06:44 AM
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The flywheel or flex plate + rear CW is removed, right?


-Ted
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 04:13 PM
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Have you tried tapping it on the edges with a mallet? They stick pretty well due to the o-rings and the tight fitting dowls.
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 04:14 PM
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yeah the rear iron, and the fly wheel are off...the only thing that i cant get off is the big pulley in the front...i unbolted the 4 bolts, but diddnt remove that large one in the center. am i suppost to remove that? if so how? i have removed the flywheel so wont it be hard to loosen it?
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 08:09 PM
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I'd put the rear side housing back on plus the flywheel and nut (no real torque required).

You need to make something to hold the flywheel down/inplace while you remove the front hub bolt. A long piece of angle iron with holes in it to match the flywheel/clutch plate bolts should do the job.

The front hub bolt is SUPPOSED to be held on with what they call sealant. Meaning LOCKTITE, plus a large dose of torque. That's why it's so hard to remove the bolt, IF it was put on right the last time.

I'd get a butane torch and heat the bolt for five minutes, then try to remove the bolt. It helps a bunch.

Seems like it'd be pretty hard to remove it with the flywheel off.

Right after I write this, someones going to come along and tell us how very, very wonderful his Impact wrench is and how it just zips that bolt off without holding the flywheel in place. Pee on him (forum rules won't let me say what I wanna say 'boutt that).
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 08:25 PM
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well funny that you mention that hailers becuase i just bought an impact gun and im waiting to use it. 230 ft/lbs enough with that gun to get it off?? hope so the only problem that i have right now is that is sun,..and i cant get my hands on a 1/2 to 3/8 inch reducer for the gun. going to get one tommorow morning tho....

and on a side note i feel like the biggest idiot right now....https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...44#post6653544

look at how i have the engine on the stand right now........is that the right place for it??? or is it suppost to be on the bolts behind it?? becuase if it is then when i get the essentric shaft locking bolt thingy off im going to have to take off the flywheel, rear iron, and rear houseing, unbolt the front cover, lift the rest of the engine off, set it off to the side, take that front piece off, and reposition the bracket on the front iron and put the rest of the engine back on the stand and continue as planned....... wheres my gun
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 08:42 PM
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doubtful a 230ft/lb impact will get it off but who knows, only one way to find out. my 600ft/lb impact can't even get some of the front e-shaft bolts off if they are really on there. i even broke my 2.5' 1/2" matco breaker bar removing a front bolt from a stubborn FD engine one time, it really depends on how much loctite the builder used and how tight they torqued the bolt on last time.
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Old Mar 11, 2007 | 09:52 PM
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From: Co springs, co
SOB, well i already broke a ratchet tryin it, (its ok, its was a pos) ill just have to use a breaker bar then.
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