Dose Anybody Know Where I Can Get Some Coolant Sealsat Or A Good Repair Shop In Socal.like Some In Oc ?

 

Wow. Do you have any idea what it takes to replace the coolant seals? You have to tear the motor APART and rebuild the whole engine. The coolant seals are the least of your worries.
That said, you can get the coolant seals at www.atkinsrotary.com For rebuilding the engine, I believe Mazdatix is in your area, and they are very good. No idea on price, though.

 

thanks 4 the info

 

Copper blok weld is at kragan, works well, as long as you follow the directions to a T.

 

and makes my life hell and costs you more during a rebuild, and only works 20% of the time and only for weeks to months.

 

This is true, I was just trying to answer his question.

 

he didn't ask anything about temporary fixes, only coolant seals ya nub!

 

speed machine performance is in socal i think

 

don't go to speed machine, the owner of the shop is a tool.

 

Ward don't you think you were a little hard on the beaver?

 

hey now.. i threw a smiley in there.

 

lmfao.

Actually, the OP could have meant "coolant system sealer" and not "engine coolant seals". Read the title again. Either way, it's best he know the truth.

 

well he said "seals" in the main body of his post but anyways you can buy induvidual coolant seals from the mazda dealer, mazdatrix or atkins rotary.

keep in mind you need more than just the coolant seals because the whole motor has to be ripped apart to get to them and all the o-rings/gaskets then need to be replaced. also as a side note the coolant seals rarely fail on their own, they generally fail because the irons themselves fail not at fault of the coolant seal itself but as a design flaw.

 

Don't work on many FD's do ya

 

everything

just ripped apart a 6mm RX2 motor the other day and an old REPU motor before that. was my first true old school motor teardown though, i almost fell over when i saw dual side seals..




here in cali though i rarely see the seals alone fail, generally the irons crack on the FDs or the previous owner lacked on changing the coolant and electrolysis ate through the rotor housings.

 

Hmmm...almost never do I see an FD with a bad water jacket. IT's usually just blowby on the coolant seals (you can easily see the black spots in the combustion area) or chipped/broken apex seals.

I never fool with (or get asked to) the old school stuff, just the occasional GSLSE. Really, there's no collector value or merit to these cars/trucks, the old cores are usually junk, and there's nothing in the old engines that wasnt improved on with the later engines, so there's not really a reason to keep or rebuild the old ones. So I tell people to upgrade to at least a hybrid 86+ block, if not do some sort of turbo swap...the money is not much different, but the power can change by +50 or +100% easily.

 

the weather out here is probably a little rougher on the FDs i guess since you do see them from all over the country but i am located in an area that see upwards of 118*F in the summer so just a few overheats and general high mileage and age the irons become just as weak as the FC irons do. i will admit they don't have nearly as many iron failures as the FCs do but then again the FCs have up to 7 years more heat cycles and years of age on the irons.

i really only took apart the 6mm engine for aesthetic purposes and the owner let me have the core motor to use as a display, i'm sure it will be good for some shock value as those seals are friggin HUGE!(that pic doesn't even do them justice) the 3mm 13B REPU engine was a teardown so i know what to expect while doing a full resto on a '77 REPU in preparation for sevenstock this year.