I have only installed a new radiator cap but it was a NAPA cap. I have a cap, thermostat and gasket all on the way that is Mazda OEM.

If I can't determine anything from the coolant seal failure check I do this evening, I'll take a couple short videos in a day or so and see what you guys think...

-Jason

 

Please tell me what you all think is going on because I'm confused.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iIWGe...2&feature=plcp

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2zhGe...1&feature=plcp

Thanks again guys,
-Jason

 

Well...

I'm going to get started with the coolant seal temporary fit on Rotary Resurrection's site. I'll clean out the cooling system for the next few days until I get it completely clean. I'll install teh Mazda radiator cap and thermostat and if that doesn't fix the issue, (I have my doubts) I'll go ahead with the Block Seal.

I do have another question: do coolant lines run through the turbo? Could there be something going on there causing the coolant system to pressurize during boost?

-Jason

 

Let me know what you think about the coolant seal test...

 

Can someone who knows what they're looking at please tell me what you think of the videos I posted. I need to know if the coolant seals are shot before proceeding...

-Jason

 

Let the engine run (when cold)and see if it starts bubbling. If bubbles continue to come out, it means exhaust is coming into the water.

 

Kevin at Rotary Resurrection already confirmed the coolant seals are blown by looking at the video.

I'm in the middle of the "Coolant Seal Fix" he suggests, so we'll see how that goes. I didn't want to start that process without knowing for sure the seals were gone.

I've flushed out all the coolant. Ran straight water through several times. Now I have Purple Power in there. I've let the car warm up a few times, adding Purple Power each time it cools. I'll drain and refill with Purple Power tomorrow and then start the process of flushing all that de-greaser out. After that...CRC Block Seal.

-Jason

 

I can't see spending upwards of $2k for a rebuild with minor upgrades. I do like the little rotary, but I don't have a lot of patience for what's been explained in this thread. My TII is nice, has low miles, been well kept and this little coolant seal failure isn't acceptable or reasonable to me. This motor should have lasted much longer. I've given it a lot of thought over the past couple days and I'm going to pursue another V8 swap.

-Jason

 

25 year service life is unacceptable? Unfortunately the soft seals age and the hard parts wear, so these engines do tend to have a time limit. I'm not against v8 swaps, but I'd hate to see such a nice, clean rx7 converted. Granted, a 2k rebuild is pricey, but you aren't even going to get a good condition modern v8 for that much. Let alone everything else to get the swap running. Just my 2c.

 

sorry to hear that. I do agree it's pretty unreasonable that this has happened though. Just please don't bastardize the interior or exterior

 

My goal is to get a complete pull-out which will include tranny, accessories, harness and PCM for $1500 or less. I've found everything minus the tranny for $800 out of town or $1000 local. Both engines have <80k miles. Yes, I'll have more into this complete swap than I would simply by doing a rebuild on the rotary, but then again that's the point...I'll have more.

No worries, I'm not stranger to doing nice, non-butchered swaps:








The last swap I did started out as a beautiful running 88 GTU, that was completely stock and still had freezing cold R12 A/C. I felt bad about pulling that one out, but I could not find a clean enough shell and in the end, I think I made him proud!

Just before the swap:


Here it is a couple days after the swap: (when the tail end came around 1/2 way through 3rd gear I parked it in the garage until I put different wheels and tires on it. Originally I wanted to keep the super sleeper stock look, but my life is worth more than that.)