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Questions regarding block weld

Old 12-31-04, 02:55 AM
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Questions regarding block weld

I'm going to start my block weld tomarrow and I had a couple questions regarding the procedure.

First off, in the first step it says to "Turn the heat control on and fan to 2, car cold and off" -- how do I do this?

After I put in the degreaser it says to turn on the car and "run it up to temp" what does this mean?

Finally, when running the garden hose in the system to flush it should I re-tighten the drain plug and then drain it after its full, or should I leave it open and just drain all the way through to the ground. One more thing when I'm putting in the degreaser, water, etc. should I only be putting it in the reservoir?

Thanks
Old 12-31-04, 09:31 AM
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Engine, Not Motor

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You know this is only a "last ditch" effort to try and get a little more life out of a dead engine, right? In doing this, you will clog the rest of the cooling system, and make it VERY annoying to rebuild the engine (block weld clogs everything and is difficult to remove).
Old 12-31-04, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by soul878
I'm going to start my block weld tomarrow and I had a couple questions regarding the procedure.

First off, in the first step it says to "Turn the heat control on and fan to 2, car cold and off" -- how do I do this?
This just means that you turn on the heater in the car. You need to get all of the coolant out of the car for the patch to work. There is coolant in the heater core...turning the heat on opens the valve to the heater core so it can be flushed.

Originally Posted by soul878
After I put in the degreaser it says to turn on the car and "run it up to temp" what does this mean?
This means that you run the engine with the water and degreaser until the temp gauge in the dash reads normal (warm).


Originally Posted by soul878
Finally, when running the garden hose in the system to flush it should I re-tighten the drain plug and then drain it after its full, or should I leave it open and just drain all the way through to the ground.

Leave the drain plugs in while the car is running. Remove them to help drain the engine before the next flush cycle.

Originally Posted by soul878
One more thing when I'm putting in the degreaser, water, etc. should I only be putting it in the reservoir?

Thanks
Uhhh... no. During this whole process, you are never working with the reservoir bottle. All water, degreaser, etc will be added through the radiator cap.

Just take your time.
Old 12-31-04, 10:54 AM
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As Aaron stated I would try a less intrusive stop leak product first. I used the prestone stop leak that doesn't require flushing or anything and it worked for me on a previous motor. You've got nothing to lose in trying to use these products first and you may get the desired result without destroying the core.
Old 12-31-04, 01:10 PM
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i thought you do got something to lose...ease of rebuilding? How do you know that your coolant seals are fried?
Old 12-31-04, 01:53 PM
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because when idling it leaks coolant sometimes, it also will beep and say add coolant, white smoke comes out of the exhaust upon start up until warm, i have to push start the car because its flooding the engine.

thanks for the help guys
Old 12-31-04, 02:34 PM
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So, have you actually proved that it is the engine burning coolant? Have you done a pressure test, then examined the chambers for coolant?

Block weld is only an emergency/last ditch effort, and only if you plan to replace the cooling system after you rebuild/replace the engine.
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