Ok guys as you all might know I am doing some freshening up of my car during the fall/witer months.

I started off with a brake job which included: New frond Brembo brake rotors(OE style not drilled or slotted), New pads all around(AXXIS a.k.a. Metal Masters), and a set of Mazdatrix's D.O.T. approved Brake hoses constructed of Braided Stainles Steel.

At the moment I am also waiting on delivery of: Mazdaracing short shifter kit(bushings and inner boot included), a brand new set of Bridgestone Potenza RE-950's(stock size) and Front strut tower bar.


Still to be ordered is the following: A set of two competition motor mounts, two transmission mounts, tranny crossmember, competition differential mount, transmission front cover, rear transmission seal, radiator cap w/neck, and a middle boot for the shifter aswell.

This weekend we are also heading out to New Braunsfels, Tx to pick up some miscilanious USED parts which are the following: S4 Transmission, S4 driveshaft, S5 AFM, 4 High Impedance injectors, two hatch lifts(shocks), S4 speedometer cable, and two sets of S5 wheels(8 wheels ).

Stupid me I clicked on the post button....


Anyways- I am also going to swap out the Parts car's LSD unit(88 GXL) and slap it on my car



My main questions are about the tranny mounts, LSD, diff mount, and engine mounts.

should I just bust out for the engine hoist?
Does anyone have a link to a write-up for the tranny mounts?
same for the diff mount?

Last about the LSD unit- Would it be the same as the Torsen write-up that Rxmfn7 made out?
What diff fluid should i get for it?

Also should I really get the transmission crossmember or is that not really needed when replacing the mounts?

 

Just replace the rubber mounts.. not the actually crossmember

 

What about the other questions?

 

so many questions, but i have no answers

it's good that you're doing all of this now though. you wouldn't wanna be out in the snow freezing your *** off doing all of this around christmas...

oh wait. does it even snow in laredo? if not then my post is useless...

oh wait. is your tranny on it's way out? if so what's wrong with it? grinding like crazy? bearings? popping out?

are you still able to "sHifT mAd QUiCk y0!" ???

 

I belileve the mazda part will be the whole cross member. I don't think they sell just the center bushing.

 

75w-90 weight, same as tranny fluid.

Engine hoist is a must.

Buy a Hanyes repair manual, that will take you through the install on all of that.

 

WHY?

Real easy, just use a jack on the tranny to support it, remove the cross member from the frame, then remove the tranny section of the mount, and put everything new back.

Voila, there goes an hour of your time from strt to finish, if you take it very slow.

This one is going to be a good one, best way is to use two jacks at the same time and a helping hand; lift the rear side of the car and use jack stands. Support the rear sub frame with one jack, and support the diff with the other jack. Unbolt the diff from the frame (above the pumpking), unbolt the right side of the sub frame, and loose the left side. Start lowering both jacks untill everything is on the floor (or as close as posible to it). Now use a really long ratchet extension in order to unbolt the diff mount. Remove the diff, and assemble.

 

It hasn't snowed in laredo since I was a pup.

My tranny grinds third 90% of the time if I don't ease it in. Fourth will grind at high speed when downshifting. 5 gear grinds from upshifting at redling from 4th. Second grinds around 25% of the time upshifting from 1st gears redline.

I can still chirp second easily though. But I am trying to be easy on the car for now.


Santiago

 

I am planing on redline for the differential. Probably MT-90

I guess I am going to rent one again :-/

I have a haynes and have some of the FSM dl'ed but I just like to hear someone else than the old mazdatechs. lol

 

The engine hoist so I can do the engine mounts

 

I just got my short shifter and I am thinking about dropping it in tonight. Even though it is like midnight already lol!

I was just wondering what the three bolts on the shifter are suppossed to be torqued to?

Also would 80W-90 gear lube be ok for what I pour in there? The weather is kind of HOT around here normally around 85-110.

I have a synthetic blend that i am going to use now for a temp solution but I plan on getting NEO or Red Line MT 90.


Thanks for the responses in advance you all.

Santiago

 

If memory serves correctly the shift lever bolts are supposed to be between 6 and 9 ft-lbs of torque.

EDIT: I use 80W-90 in mine year around and it has never given me trouble.

 

Thanks mike I will go back and check on what I tq-d them to.



Anyhow...


My stock shifter bushings were......umm......how do you say....GONE

All that was left was two mettal rings and a lot of GUNK

The whole thing took me like 25-30 minutes to do.(I took my time)

First you remove the ***.
Remove the shifter surround.
Remove the top two rubber peices.
Pull the bottom rubber peice around the stock shifter to get to the bolts.
Remove bolts.
Pull shifter out.
Pull bottom bushing out.(I only had a little metal ring)
I cleaned out all the crap that was in there.
Place MAZDA OEM gasket on the tranny.
Place the spacer on the gasket.
Pour in Oil.
Lube up the shifter.
Insert shifter.
Place top bushing ontop of shifter.
Place inner boot over the shifter.
Screw bolts on.
Replace Rubber parts.
Replace surround.
Re-install shifter ***.

Done


I love it!

I only have to move a tad to switch from the 1-2 to the 3-4 gear range. Shifting from 1-2 is like 2-2.35" And it feels nice and tight.


Santiago

 

Ok guys I just took delivery today on my last shipment of parts. The only thing left to do is get lubes for the tranny and diff, tools, and get to work!

 

I didn't even get notified by my sister(usually signs for my packages) but about an hour ago I stubled on this package:

Here is the invoice

 

Competition motor mounts:

 

wow...Competition motor mounts....

and your packing slip

Got some time on your hands?...

BTW, the invoice is virtually unreadble...

 

Forgot one with the little rubber cap removed.


Competition Tranny mounts:



Cross Member:

 

Dood, seriously....STOP!

 

 

pwn3d! lol

Let me get my invoice lol! It is supposed to be a huge god damn pic. and yes competition mounts are ery much

Total spent on this stuff is 411.xx USD. I have one question though.
My radiator cap and neck are not stock looking. I will get a pick of that.

 

Look: all my stock radiator cap necks are plastic. But this **** is aluminum. when did they change to a metal style? and the cap is like non eof mine either.

 

Thats how they come from the dealer. Same one I have...

 

Ok Jarret forgive me for being enthuzed about getting all my parts for this weekend. :/

I want to give HUGE props to the guys at mazdaformance which I ordered from on teusday! Some parts had to be delivered to them then to me. and it still got here in 4 biz days! woohoo!

anyways I want to get some info on the radiator cap and the neck. no o-ring groove is on that hunk of metal so do I still slap one on there or what?

 

Oh yeah and do you all have any idea on how I would go about organizinge all the tasks at hand? lol. I don't have a clue what to put in first. I planned to do it next week. BUT I didn't count on these guys shipping it via flux capacitor 3 rotor delorean i.e. FAST AS FARK!


ugh more ?'s since I am swapping to an LSD rear end I need that LSD addittive right? can I buy that locally?