Mavman117

Probably a little of both. Unfortunately I cannot find where the air pump is supposed to be mounted so I will not be able to switch over the fan until I get a double pulley. If the belt that is on it currently has sunk into the pulley with just an hour of run time I would hate to see what the belt would look like if I put the stock fan back on. But atleast I should be able to run the car as long as I keep an eye on that belt until the pulley for the alternator gets here. LoL

Mavman117

So I changed out the battery for a 640 CCA battery and boy what a difference. Also I switched out the ECU and the tach works perfectly now and no CEL. Also found that my 3000 rpm hesitation was caused by a ground wire by the starter. Supposedly its the same one that lets you start the car because I figured this out when I tried to start the car with the new battery today. Also I tried finding the temperature sending wire but was unable to locate anything that would go on a spade connector that was free. I did find a tan/red wire SET but nothing that would work with the spade temperature sender. Whenever I couldn't find the sender wire I figured that I would just work on it later and tried to put it in but to my surprise the temperature sender unit from my 89 GXL engine was too big to fit in the hole in the housing so I am still at a lose as to how I can get my temp gauge to work.

Any Ideas guys???

Mavman117

OK so I got everything running like I stated above but I think the timing is off. What do you guys think????

<object width="425" height="344"><param name="movie" value="http://www.youtube.com/v/PSNEAA1R3oY?hl=en&fs=1"></param><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/PSNEAA1R3oY?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>

Mavman117

Anyone???

Mavman117

OK so since I changed the ECU and everything these are the codes I am getting still....

25 - Solenoid, Pressure Regulator Control
30 - Solenoid, Split Air Valve
31 - Solenoid, Relief Valve
32 - Solenoid, Switch Valve
33 - Solenoid, Port Air Valve
38 - Solenoid, Accelerated Warm-up System (AWS)
40 - Solenoid, Auxiliary Port (6PI) Valve
41 - Solenoid, Variable Dynamic Effect Intake (VDI)

Since I didn't get any answers about the idle surge and the rough idle when it isn't surging (surging was because of a sticking TPS so i replaced the entire throttle body) but the problem that I am having now is that the car will start rev up to about 1500 rpm and then just die. I would appreciate some help since my other car blew the transmission and the cops where I live will pull me over and give me a reckless driving if I am at a stoplight and my car has idle surge. I really would prefer keeping my liscence and not having to pay a $300 ticket so your guy's help would be nice.

satch

iTrader: (1)

Code 30,31,32 and 33 are emissions related and if they were deleted then you would get these error codes. If these emissions were properly deleted then the error codes would not be a cause for your car to not run.

Mavman117

Well what about the rest?? Is it possible that I just have a huge vacuum leak and that is why the car wont even idle???

satch

iTrader: (1)

The last three on the list shouldn't affect your idle or ability to start the car but it's not clear how the AWS was deleted. The AWS can be disabled w/o having to remove the unit I believe, but if it was alltogether removed and done so improperly then that could cause an idling/starting problem. A large vacuum leak would cause the car to start very briefly and then stutter and die.

Mavman117

Well the AWS still works so I do not know about that because it does rev up to 3000 then down to 1500 but once it drops from there it still stutters and dies unless it is warm. If it is warm it just goes to 1200 then back down to 750. I did adjust the timing on it and it was way out. I took it out after adjusting the timing and it is like driving a completely different car. I thought the car had power before just not up hills but now if I shift too fast into second gear above 4500 rpm the whole rear tries to cut loose. I also did replace all the vacuum caps that I could find and that did help a little. I also replaced the BAC since it was slightly out of spec with resistance and the other one I had was right in the middle of the resistance range so I thought that it wouldn't hurt to switch them. I also had to adjust the throttle cable under the hood as well. Now when I start the car it will go 3000 usually (sometimes up to 3600) then drop down to 1500 (sometimes 2000) and then if it is cold I hold the throttle hear until the air from the vents gets warm and then it will either drop to 750 like normal or sometimes start to bounce the idle from 1000 to 1500. If it starts idle bouncing I just have to put my foot under the gas and lift up briefly and then the car goes to its correct idle at 750. I think one of my throttle positioning sensors is either hanging up a little which is keeping the throttle from coming back up to normal position by 1/16 -1/32 of an inch or my throttle cable needs greased. My friend has some industrial grease that lasts about 10 yrs and I am going to get some of that and put it in the sleeve for the throttle cable and work it in and see if that helps. Gonna see if the stuff works on my sunroof track as well :P.

Just as a side note the TPS sensors have both been set properly and even when the car is jumpered the idle screw on top does very very little change to the idle. It only does probly 15 rpm worth since it will only move the tach about a quarter of a line.

Here is another question and hopefully an easy one. Is my throttle problem possibly just the cable or could it still be the TPS even though I have set them correctly???

Mavman117

Anyone.....Anyone???