My '90 GXL has been sitting for about the last 6-months due to coolant mixing with the oil. For more details, refer to this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...l-pan-1159646/ I was planning on tearing into it months ago, but had a number of setbacks thus delaying this job. I am now hoping to get to it within the next week. I believe that the problem is due to a leaking or rusted freeze plug in the front iron. There have been a few threads on this same topic in the past. Apparently, more rare but it could also be an outer coolant seal under the the oil pan. I'm hoping it's not this.

So, my question is in regards to the Atkins Coolant System Test Kit (ARE906). Here's a link: https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/C...it-ARE906.html This seems like a clever way to test the seals. Atkins doesn't provide any instructions on their website. It looks like it may be a good investment. Has anybody have any experience with the Atkins coolant system test kit? Not sure where all the extra pieces are used or if even needed? It looks like the gauge part bolts over the water pump in/out ports, and is used to pressurize the cooling system. It also looks like it has a schrader valve to pressurize with a hand air pump. Was wondering if this will work with the front cover off? Maybe I should direct these questions to Atkins?

 

Is the engine in or out of the car? If it's in the car, I'd maybe buy a generic cooling system pressure tester to hook up to the radiator cap.

Anyhow, I used a similar setup to test my rebuild before it went back in the car (mine was from Pineapple Racing). Front cover off is fine, there are no cooling passages there. The extra stuff in that system is for blocking off anything external. I would guess the plate and o-rings are for the rotor housing coolant passages, then a couple of caps for the rear iron. Put the main gauge and valve where the pump housing goes, block off everything else, then use a pump to pressurize. I did mine to 15 psi. If you don't hear any immediate rushing of air, walk away and come back in 10-15 minutes to see if the pressure stayed the same.

 

I'm planning on starting this job next week. The engine will remain in the car. Hopefully, I won't need to pull it out. If it is a front iron freeze plug(s), than I will replace all three plugs and reassemble everything. With engine in car, I'll need to be very careful with the Torrington bearings during reassembly. Other than lots of parts cleaning, this shouldn't be too big a job.

I just checked out the Pineapple Racing's pressure tester (https://www.pineappleracing.com/cool...estercspt.aspx). Actually, I like it better than the Atkins pressure tester. I think I'll order one.

Product Reviews:
Pretty AWESOME tool...!!!
James Wallack (Westbury, NY) 12/24/2012 4:47 AM
Comes in super handy to check out your candidate to build. Found out my freeze out plugs were bad before building. Very Happy w/the product & at a decent price.

If it's not a freeze plug, than it's likely an outer coolant seal. I'll need to move on to plan "B". I'd use the pressure tester to try to locate the bad seal.

JerryLH3, thanks for the helpful info!

 

Anytime!

I think the Pineapple one is definitely nicer where it mounts to the front iron. Atkins is nice and includes stuff to block off any passages for an engine on a stand, but those kinds of plugs and caps can be sourced elsewhere.

Funny story, I used tapered rubber plugs to block off the rotor housing to intake manifold passages. I pressurized the system, found some minor leaks where one other cap on the rear iron wasn't tight enough, then pressurized again. It held, so I walked away to have dinner. About 10 or 15 minutes later, as the family and I were eating, we heard a loud pop come from the garage. I found the tapered plug several feet away from the engine. I considered my coolant seals seated properly and moved on, haha.

 

I just placed an order with Pineapple Racing.

>> I think the Pineapple one is definitely nicer where it mounts to the front iron. Atkins is nice and includes stuff to block off any
>> passages for an engine on a stand, but those kinds of plugs and caps can be sourced elsewhere.

Agreed. Hardware store or McMaster-Carr.

>> Funny story, I used tapered rubber plugs to block off the rotor housing to intake manifold passages. I pressurized the system,
>> found some minor leaks where one other cap on the rear iron wasn't tight enough, then pressurized again. It held, so I walked
>> away to have dinner. About 10 or 15 minutes later, as the family and I were eating, we heard a loud pop come from the garage.
>> I found the tapered plug several feet away from the engine. I considered my coolant seals seated properly and moved on, haha.

I laughed at that one too!