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Question for all who have put FD Alternators in FC's

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Old 07-31-12, 09:25 PM
  #26  
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Let me get this straight...

You think you have a bad alternator because your idiot lights aren't as bright while the engine isn't running?


Really?
Old 07-31-12, 09:30 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Holy thread ressuuuuurrecttttion

Took me a while to find some thread like this

ok, I got an Alternator off Ebay(yea, I know) from ACE Alternator, someone here have them before and said they're good, so yeah, I got one, said it was reman and upgraded to 140amp.

Ok, installed, dimmed idiot light when key to on engine still off. I remember when I had the original alternator, which clearly fails at charging (less than 12 V!) had really bright light

I wonder if this Alternator is broken. I know I can test it but after reading HOZZMANRX7's results, I think I might have a "bad" Alternator cuz all my idiots lights were dimmed(before the engine start, just key on)

I probably gonna yank the CPU out and resolder everything first, right ?

Any inputs anyone ?
You want to measure the voltage w/key to on on the White/Black wire at the largest plug found at the CPU. The wire should have a couple of volts at the most and if it is higher then I believe it leads to more dim idiot lighting.
Old 07-31-12, 09:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by K-Tune
Let me get this straight...

You think you have a bad alternator because your idiot lights aren't as bright while the engine isn't running?


Really?
Not only that, at Stop light the car dims, not just when the key on engine off.

Maybe my belt is not tighten enough I will make it tighter.

Originally Posted by satch
You want to measure the voltage w/key to on on the White/Black wire at the largest plug found at the CPU. The wire should have a couple of volts at the most and if it is higher then I believe it leads to more dim idiot lighting.
I will try that tomorrow morning. Thx
Old 07-31-12, 09:55 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by nycgps
Not only that, at Stop light the car dims, not just when the key on engine off.

Maybe my belt is not tighten enough I will make it tighter.



I will try that tomorrow morning. Thx
You might require a different pulley for the alternator. Might be wrong, but a stock pulley tends to be rather meager at producing proper voltage when at idle. I thought Japan to LA provides a pulley to correct this problem though I'm not really familiar w/this setup.
Old 08-01-12, 12:16 AM
  #30  
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"said it was reman and upgraded to 140amp. "

I just saw this, and that comment is the "tell".

Satch hit it right. Every alternator I've seen that was "Upgraded" to higher amps would show lower volts at idle every thing else being the same. That upgrade needs a small pulley to increase the alternator's rpm's to more than stock at low idle.

On top of that, sounds like a crappy regulator leaking too much voltage at ground like I kept running into was installed.

I suggest you simply bag that upgraded alternator and go the relative drop-in FD alternator route. At least half the battle will be won right away. And if you're lucky, both. Although truth be told, dim idiot lights at initial key on isn't necessarily an indicator the alternator itself won't be charging properly.
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