First question.
Does the "hole" where the ACV is have "access" to the engine through the intake? or is it blocked off and for other purposes.

Second
The bolt i used to screw on my ACV blockoff plate on was really shitty and old, and the head twisted right off (it wasnt even tight, the bolt was a post). so the blockoff plate is screwed in in 2 places, third place isnt really tight cuz the bolt head is gone, but i did use high temp gasket sealer on it, and as far as i can tell its pretty tight.
i REALLY dont want to pull my lim again and drill out the old screw and helicoil it, but i will do it ifits going to cause some vac leak or something (it seems tight on there, no leaks i dont think) but if the engine can suck air in through the ACV im gonna fix it.

 

The ACV "holes" on the LIM lead to the exhaust ports on the rotor housings, and lead to a passage for the split air going back to the cat (via the hose @ the back of the LIM)..There are also the two small ones coming from/going to the switching solenoid & relief solenoid on the rat's nest (if you still have all that)...could be more, not sure...

Just crank her up & check for leaks at the "weak" spot on the block-off plate...Depending on where this spot is, you might get exhaust gases (especially if you removed the round check valve before installing the block-off), or you might get a vac leak...

 

Why did you have to pull your LIM to remove the ACV?
There are just the three nuts to remove, some vac lines, air pump host and releif hose.

 

This bit's right, but...
...this bit's not. The switching valve and relief valve are connected to their respective solenoid valves via the vac lines.

The other holes in the LIM do go all the way into the primary intake runners. They're for the anti-afterburn valve and the pressure sensor nipple. If you don't block off these holes properly, you'll have a vac leak.

 

So basically, i just have to make sure the whol ACV is totally blocked off to be ok