RylAssassin

I put my emission equipment back on my car for emissions testing and after putting an ACV valve and airpump back on my car idles extremly badly and runs really shitty.
My idle is jumping from 1300 to 1500 and the whole engine shakes pretty violently.
Before this install i had high idle as well as some pulsing but my car ran 10 times better.
Can you guys tell me what the hell is going on?

ddub

vac leak maybe? play with the idle speed screw too, see if you can lower your idle

HAILERS

The ONLY reason a car would idle different if the ACV/AIRPUMP was put back on is........either the ACV's anti afterburn valve is leaking OR the gasket is leaking and adding air to the intake manifold.

Either install a good gasket OR if you think the gasket is good....then get some RTV and plug the anti afterburn valve output and signal holes. Let the RTV dry for a hour and then reinstall same.

RylAssassin

What is RTV? And which plug is the output and signal house?
Sorry im just not that familiar with the ACV.

HAILERS

House???????? Not familiar with RTV?????? Forget it.

RylAssassin

Dude give me a break i meant hose, ever heard of TYPO ERROR


CAN SOMEONE TELL ME WHAT RTV IS????

HAILERS

http://www.dowcorning.com/content/et...s_tutorial.asp

RylAssassin

Thanks Hailers

RylAssassin

By the way would not having the split air pipe hooked up affect the idle as well? I have a block plate on there right now.

ddub

Not that I know of, but so you know, you wont pass emissions without the air going to the cat. And if you have no air going to the cat, what's the point of putting the airpump and ACV on? All they do is supply air to the cat, so if you're going to run with no split air pipe, there's no point in having them.

HAILERS

Most all the air goes to the exaust ports and not the splitair pipe, but do reconnect it. Later I'll post a jpg of the two holes I referred to earlier. They are on the side of the acv that mates to the intake manifold.

I'm talking about getting some rtv/silicone and on the acv shoving the rtv into the holes. It only needs to go down the holes a 1/4 inch or so. Just to block those two holes so no air from the airpump can enter the intake manifold. Later

RylAssassin

Yeah i plan on putting the split air pipe back on before the emissions test.

HAILERS

The red rtv dots in this jpg http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=29342

If after you plug these two holes the car still idles funny.....it shouldn't not be attributed to the acv unless the gasket is whacked. A little rtv on the surface of the gasket might help. Be sure to reinstall the checkvalve in case you forgot about it. Even the lack of the checkvalve shouldn't cause the idle to be irregular. I doubt you forgot it, but just in case.

RylAssassin

Thanks for helping me out HAILERS, but theres just one prob with that pic.
My ACV valve is from a 87 TII and it looks nothing like that one you posted, so how would i figure out which holes it is on mine?

HAILERS

This jpg and the two holes BELOW and ON EITHER SIDE OF THE NICKEL. One is elongated a bit, the other round and a bit smaller than the elongated hole.

http://www.teamfc3s.org/forum/showth...threadid=29357

RylAssassin

Ok thanks, im gonna go try this tonight.

HAILERS

Not trying to ruin your weekend or make this the longest running thread ever.....but before you put the acv back on the car, get a vacuum hose and put it on the nipple that sticks straight up in the air. Suck on it. It should hold a vacuum. Do the same with the nipple on the very bottom, on that mushroom looking diaphram. It also should hold a vacuum. If not.....ugggggh! Those won't put air in the intake manifold, but will make the acv disfunctional as far as the Port Air and Split air.