I have a small fire extiguisher in my car along with all kinds of ****.

 

sorry to hear about your car that sucks. The first thing you need to do is wash off all of that dry chem A.S.A.P It's EXTREMELY CORROSIVE if any of it got into the engine it's time for a rebuild, you can clean the dry chem with an engine de-greaser and LOTS of water, just cover intake, wire connections, ect.. and spray any exposed metal with primer.
FWIW get a Co2 fire extinguisher, expensive but well worth the money and they leave no collateral damage.
good luck, I hope you get your car back on the road

 

thanks for the advice

 

you hide it in the same place too!!! lol

ahem... sorry for your loss... but as any fc owner will say, take it and stride... if you do repair it, it should bring you closer to your car(as we all need to be)

 

Aren't S4's more prone to this than S5's?

Don't drive the car if it smells like gas? I don't think that's an option for my 7.77mpg beast.

 

wow 31 post in not even 2 days seems like everyone hates this things. I kinda like them well not really being that there faulty but like them because thats how i got my fc for 500 bucks and minimial damages. Glad she didnt actually get hurt. bummer about yours i would say just start looking around for a new one sorry bro. Everyone learn from this not bagging on you but we should all carry fire extinguishers.

 

Then on the subject of fire extingishers....most of use use dry chemical...I hear dry chemical might do more damage to alum and alloy's then the fire

 

wow how do you get 7.77 My mods arn't far off yours im 17 city (and i just did ) 27 highway.

 

Sorry for the misfortune....

But, these cars are 20 years old. The PD contains a rubber diaphram and like all rubber it degrades over time. This includes fuel lines, gaskets, belts, etc. Just as all rubber hoses should be replaced every few years, the PD should be at least checked at the same time. And since the hood is lifted at every fill-up for an oil check, it's quick and easy to check the PD as well.

If you are nervous about it failing, then there are aftermarket replacements that can be easily retrofitted.

FWIW, I have seen the exact same PD used on many other model cars. Toyotas, Mazdas, Nissans, Hondas, etc. The last car I remember seeing with the same PD was a newer S2000. Clearly it's just a standard Denso part...

 

VERY rich tune. Not sure of the AFR's yet, hitting a dyno on the 23rd.
Who tuned your car?????????????? That's some amazing street mpg!

 

Please keep this on topic.

If you wish to discuss mileage with another user, use PMs.

Thanks.

 

Mine is leaking too. Time to start carrying a fire extinguisher!

 

Sorry Aaron

 

Part of my problem was it started leaking before i even knew there was such a thing my car.... and BTW that chemical stuff all over my car is something that actually came from the car. I used a CO2 fire extinguisher when it cought fire.

Had a quick thought though.... Since ever thing is nuked and ill be replace alot stuff anyway. What all would I need to drop a turbo and/or performance intake and roughly what would it cost me

 

Perhaps a better idea is to fix it before you drive the car?

 

Hey Aaron, I can't find the link for the write up you did to replace the PD, my computer is messing up. Can you post it or PM it to me. 87FC/NA.

Thanks...

 

Is this the infamous pulsation damper? Because if it is, I've sprung a massive leak ( ) and will need AAA to give me and the car a lift home

 

Setting up a formerly N/A with a Turbo usually requires a driveline upgrade since the stock N/A driveline isn't good over, I believe I've heard, 200HP or so.

There are plenty of N/A -> Turbo threads and writeups, including, but not limited to:
Rotary Resurrection's N/A -> TII write-up

-Goofy

This is with respect to swapping to Turbo while he's at it, fixing his engine bay.

 

Can anyone confirm I've correctly identified the source of my fuel smell? (see above)

 

Yeah, thats it.

I got lucky with mine. When I bought the car it was leaking slowly. At the time, I had no clue. Due to my transmission going catatonic on the way home from buying it, I had enough time to play around with my engine and learn some stuff, including the issues involved with the PD. Yay for banjo bolts.

 

well that looks like a somewhat complicated conversion... and for an already complicated situation maybe ill wait... Im gonna start trying to dig up some parts for an N/A. Thanks for the advice and help

Oh and Anyone know any reliable sources in Utah to get parts?

 

Junk yard (cheap but old), dealership (expensive but new), Mazdatrix.com (expensive but new), and others. A search will get you some ideas.

 

i had done some research on the banjo solution and i agree with what someone said the pd is like a fuel shock absorber and with out it wouldn't you get surges ? and as for the pd if it lasted till now wouldn't a new one last for a while as well i know the pd was shot in my car when i got it and it still had the lil screw in it i tightened it down and put a fire extingisher in the car replaced it 2 months later but only drove the car 3 times

 

looks almost identical to mine, except it was the emissions that caused it. I got mine running again for around $800, not too bad on parts prices online.

 

The item in the top left corner with a vacuum line attached is the fuel pressure regulator.

The pulsation damper is the round part with a plastic cap hidden under the upper intake manifold. I can't see it in the picture but it's sort of right behind the alternator.

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=395021
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=356838