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Pulley alignment q's (eating alternator belts)

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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 06:37 AM
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Pulley alignment q's (eating alternator belts)

So my s5 n/a has been eating belts recently. I've gone through 3 in the past 3 months or so (2 of which happened in the past week). When I looked at the alignment between the water pump and the e-shaft pulley, it definitely looked off (as if the water pump pulley was sitting rearward of the e-shaft pulley) and i'm feeling this is the problem. It also squeels pretty hardcore in the mornings (when it's cold and condensation has a chance to build up on...well...everything) and when I come down exit ramps off the interstate.

Why I'm here bothering you guys is I'm not exactly sure why they've become mis-aligned. I changed the water pump recently, but I feel as though I did this correctly. The e-shaft pulley is on the right way (I mean, there's only one way it fits on, so...) and the water pump is the right pump (ordered specifically for the car, does a fine job of keeping the car cool, installed, to the best of my knowledge, properly). The alternator hasn't been messed with at all since it was installed in march, and there were no belt-eating problems back then (before the water pump replacement)

My main question is: which of these pulleys is most likely the culprit of being mis-aligned (i.e., is my water pump too far back or the e-shaft pulley installed too far forward?), and what work can I do myself to re-align them? Is there a spacer I've forgotten that I'll need to order and install? Any info would be greatly appreciated. I've also been looking at atkin rotary's pulley kit (6-rib belt between alt, water pump, eshaft), any thoughts on that?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 06:53 AM
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Interesting problem.

As noted, both the main and waterpump pulleys are what they are, there's no real "adjustment" possible, which leaves the alternator as your only approach point.
Since the alternator has the smallest pulley and is also the tension adjustment for the system, that's the component most likely to eat a belt.
Make sure the alt adjustment arm isn't cocking the alternator when tightened, that the pulley is straight.
Also, what belts are you using?
I had issues with a belt squealing and simply replacing it with a Goodyear Gatorback solved the problem.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:51 AM
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Get a double belt pulley for the alternator.

MINT 1980 s1=THE CAR I WILL FOREVER! 1988 s4 vert: jdm s5 t2 swap, mild streetport, FD corner seals, RA super seals & springs, tii trans & rear, rtek 1.7, RC 550cc primary, 750cc secondary, FMIC, walbro 255, CS down pipe, RB rev ii down pipe back no cat , koyo rad, broken window switches, and RFL HKS BOV.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 09:57 AM
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clokker:

I've been using the basic 31.5 inch V belts from advance auto parts. perhaps a better belt should be used in the future. All the same, I don't think it's strictly a belt related issue as much as alignment.

As for the alternator, what can cause it to come out of alignment? Is it not held within a plane via the longer bolt it pivots on (attached to the motor)? Is there some silly, improper way to mount it that I may have gone and done? I'm fairly certain it's not the alternator, but I am by no means infallible. Also, thanks for the quick response.

vert88:

what kind of double pulley would you suggest? all the ones I see alter the speed of the alternator (as if intended for high-rpm race engines or whatever). Any thoughts on the atkins 6 rib kit? Anyone have experience with that?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 10:11 AM
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the alternator has a spacer on the lower leg, it can be installed in the wrong side to put the alternator 1/3" forward. the spacer is supposed to attach to the leg on the rear, nearest the firewall.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 10:28 AM
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I don't recall installing any spacer, which I assume could cause some issue. Is the spacer super specific or could I replace it with a washer from a hardware store?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 10:33 AM
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some of the alternators don't have them, it was mainly a series 4 and earlier thing but there's no mention of a series here.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 11:32 AM
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what brand of water pump is it? is it a rebuild?
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 12:00 PM
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Originally Posted by sft3303

vert88:

what kind of double pulley would you suggest? all the ones I see alter the speed of the alternator (as if intended for high-rpm race engines or whatever). Any thoughts on the atkins 6 rib kit? Anyone have experience with that?
I have the Racing Beat. I'm not familiar with the Atkins so idk... There is a difference in size so on idle my car won't charge a full 12v but who sits at idle anyway? It charges my optima yellow top battery fine over 1k rpm. When I have the single belt I chewed one every month. I haven't had to change any of the double belts in over a year. This also mean no power steering or ac. In the event that yours is out of line I would find out why first but maybe just puttin on the double belt pulley could fix both issues you have. Do you have an s4 or s5 alternator?

MINT 1980 s1=THE CAR I WILL MISS FOREVER! 1988 s4 vert: jdm s5 t2 swap, mild streetport, FD corner seals, RA super seals & springs, tii trans & rear, rtek 1.7, RC 550cc primary, 750cc secondary, FMIC, walbro 255, CS down pipe, RB rev ii down pipe back no cat , koyo rad, broken window switches, and RFL HKS BOV.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 12:15 PM
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you can still run P/S and A/C with the dual pulley belts, it was for those who eliminated the smog pump only.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
you can still run P/S and A/C with the dual pulley belts, it was for those who eliminated the smog pump only.
Thanx for clarifying that. It's been so long since its all been removed on my car I forgot... Sorry for the misleading respond

MINT 1980 s1=THE CAR I WILL MISS FOREVER! 1988 s4 vert: jdm s5 t2 swap, mild streetport, FD corner seals, RA super seals & springs, tii trans & rear, rtek 1.7, RC 550cc primary, 750cc secondary, FMIC, walbro 255, CS down pipe, RB rev ii down pipe back no cat , koyo rad, broken window switches, and RFL HKS BOV.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 01:41 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
some of the alternators don't have them, it was mainly a series 4 and earlier thing but there's no mention of a series here.
Originally Posted by sft3303
So my s5 n/a has been eating belts recently.
Series 5. But thanks for the info

Originally Posted by j9fd3s
what brand of water pump is it? is it a rebuild?
New GMB through Advance Auto.

As for the dual pulley, I wouldn't even consider it if I had to lose A/C. It gets waayyyy too hot in the summer down here for that.
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 05:55 PM
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Originally Posted by sft3303
New GMB through Advance Auto.
i would suspect the pump has the pulley boss in the wrong place
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Old Oct 4, 2012 | 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by j9fd3s
i would suspect the pump has the pulley boss in the wrong place
I read somewhere in the forum of someone having just that problem with the water pump pulley flange being pressed onto the shaft in the wrong place .. also the rear leg of the alt has a insert in it to let the alternator space proper .. Most of the time the insert is stuck and just looks like part of the alternator leg My s4 alt has this . If you look it will show . usually they can be pressed out of the alt leg in the vice with the help of a socket ( be careful ) Gerald m.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 08:40 AM
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I genuinely (sp?) think this is to do with a mis-aligned e-shaft pulley. I'll get pics next time I have the belts off, but the ps and a/c belts are off-center too. I just think that because there is more distance between those pulleys, the affects of the mis-alignment are less exaggerated.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 10:47 AM
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you would have to do something seriously ignorant to shift the main pulley set on the crank. to the tune of needing a drill/dremel, spacers and longer bolts.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 11:10 AM
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Just to get on track with diagnosis on the trouble: You should be able to visually sight down the alignment on the pulleys. If it is an alignment issue that eats 3 belts per week, you WILL be able to see the mis-alignment.

If it all looks straight, think about your tension-is it too tight?

Is your tension too loose-did you come back and recheck the tension after a couple of days after the belt's initial stretch-

think about how you put the belts on-did you happen to stretch it on with a tool, making a small nick that led to early failure?

Do you have a failing bearing in the alternator that leads to large in crease in the load presented to the belt and subsequent slipping belt erosion/failure.

Is the main pulley worn out presenting a curved pulley wall instead of a straight pulley wall? This can lead to belt wear and failure. I've never personally seen this on a car, but it happens all the time on electrically driven fan belts.

Lots of pissiblities.

Good Luck.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 12:31 PM
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Just to chime in, it's impossible to miss align the eshaft pulley without modifying it. It only goes one one way. If that was "out of line" the pulley is bent or check and make sure the that pulley's bolt is tight.

MINT 1980 s1=THE CAR I WILL MISS FOREVER! 1988 s4 vert: jdm s5 t2 swap, mild streetport, FD corner seals, RA super seals & springs, tii trans & rear, rtek 1.7, RC 550cc primary, 750cc secondary, FMIC, walbro 255, CS down pipe, RB rev ii down pipe back no cat , koyo rad, broken window switches, and RFL HKS BOV.
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by RotaryEvolution
you would have to do something seriously ignorant to shift the main pulley set on the crank. to the tune of needing a drill/dremel, spacers and longer bolts.
Yeah I don't think that's the case. I'll be taking another look at it shortly. When I removed this pulley to replace the water pump, i simply unbolted it and bolted it back up (being that there's only one way it can go back on, I don't think this is where I made my mis-step. But for some reason it looks like that's the case. Maybe it's my water pump pulley that's too far back...?
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Old Oct 5, 2012 | 08:37 PM
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off subject, but why do you have "303" in your username? Not the tb-303 by chance is it?
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