Pulled AVC to clean, but it doesn't look pretty, need some advice.
01-30-05, 05:29 PM
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XBL** Ownicus
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Pulled AVC to clean, but it doesn't look pretty, need some advice.
I got sick of sitting around all day, so I decided to bear the cold and go tinker with the 7. I couldn't think of anything quick to do so I yanked the AVC and BAC off to clean them out and then was going to hunt for some vacuum leaks.
The little plunger deal on my AVC is charred and pretty much gone, and I was going to do a full emissions removal in the summer anyways, so I need some advice pertaining to putting the AVC back on or not.
I already gutted the stock cats (All three) and actually have a RB presilencer replacement (you don't need the split air pipe for one of those as I have read), so I don't think I really need the ACV. I do have the air pump on and it's tapped into to provide 6th port activation (this is a S4, so it's controlled by the split air pipe usually).
So I have two big what-ifs.
1.) If I block-off the AVC port and toss the AVC in the trash, will I have any problems like poor idle, bad gas mileage, etc if I haven't done a full emmissions removal (remember, no cats right now, EGR is disabled). I do require the accelerated warm-up to function (both the little 1500rpm one and the 3000rpm, which the former I'm sure is controlled by the ECU).
2.) I still need the air pump to power my 6pi. What do you guys think about me just running the chunk coming out of the pump straight into the silencer so I can maintain that function. I don't really want to go through the hassle of digging up an electric pump and RPM activator if my current solution works well. I just replaced the air pump belt as well, so I'd rather not waste my $5 invested.
Thanks for the advice guys, looking forward to figuring out what I should do.
The little plunger deal on my AVC is charred and pretty much gone, and I was going to do a full emissions removal in the summer anyways, so I need some advice pertaining to putting the AVC back on or not.
I already gutted the stock cats (All three) and actually have a RB presilencer replacement (you don't need the split air pipe for one of those as I have read), so I don't think I really need the ACV. I do have the air pump on and it's tapped into to provide 6th port activation (this is a S4, so it's controlled by the split air pipe usually).
So I have two big what-ifs.
1.) If I block-off the AVC port and toss the AVC in the trash, will I have any problems like poor idle, bad gas mileage, etc if I haven't done a full emmissions removal (remember, no cats right now, EGR is disabled). I do require the accelerated warm-up to function (both the little 1500rpm one and the 3000rpm, which the former I'm sure is controlled by the ECU).
2.) I still need the air pump to power my 6pi. What do you guys think about me just running the chunk coming out of the pump straight into the silencer so I can maintain that function. I don't really want to go through the hassle of digging up an electric pump and RPM activator if my current solution works well. I just replaced the air pump belt as well, so I'd rather not waste my $5 invested.
Thanks for the advice guys, looking forward to figuring out what I should do.
01-30-05, 05:47 PM
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XBL** Ownicus
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Originally Posted by yearrgh
No one requires the AWS to run. Take that piece of crap off and trash it.
01-30-05, 06:18 PM
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Found another interesting chunk. It was attached to the uppper bolt on the hydraulic clutch release piston-thing. It's a ring terminal with a little blastic box epoxied on the end that has a single wire running out of it and clips into one of the wire bundles running back through the firewall.
It read 0.47/250 R17G on the top. I plugged the multimeter into both ends of it and it reads no continuity and the resistance reads fully insulated, so it's either fried inside or isn't a resistor of some sort like I thought it is. The other side of the plug that runs into the firewall does read continuity with the negative battery terminal, but it's very faint. I'm thinking of almost running a ground between this and the chassis. Any ideas on that one?
It read 0.47/250 R17G on the top. I plugged the multimeter into both ends of it and it reads no continuity and the resistance reads fully insulated, so it's either fried inside or isn't a resistor of some sort like I thought it is. The other side of the plug that runs into the firewall does read continuity with the negative battery terminal, but it's very faint. I'm thinking of almost running a ground between this and the chassis. Any ideas on that one?
01-30-05, 06:33 PM
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NM about the little resistor thing, it's actually a condensor for the oil pressure guage. I should've searched before-hand on that one.
01-30-05, 09:25 PM
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The air control valve on the whole never sends air to the INTAKE.\
The exception is when you let off the pedal , then it injects a small amount of air into the intake to prevent backfire.
The removal should not effect the idle unless you don't make a good blockoff plate to cover the holes in the intake manifold.
If the anti afterburn valve inside the acv was broken/leaking, then your idle might very well change if you remove and blockoff the acv mating surface with a plate.
Removing the acv does ......squat for performance. Nadda. Zippity do dah. Zilch. Virtually the same can be said for the removal of the airpump removal.
The exception is when you let off the pedal , then it injects a small amount of air into the intake to prevent backfire.
The removal should not effect the idle unless you don't make a good blockoff plate to cover the holes in the intake manifold.
If the anti afterburn valve inside the acv was broken/leaking, then your idle might very well change if you remove and blockoff the acv mating surface with a plate.
Removing the acv does ......squat for performance. Nadda. Zippity do dah. Zilch. Virtually the same can be said for the removal of the airpump removal.
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01-30-05, 10:23 PM
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Originally Posted by HAILERS
The air control valve on the whole never sends air to the INTAKE.\
The exception is when you let off the pedal , then it injects a small amount of air into the intake to prevent backfire.
The removal should not effect the idle unless you don't make a good blockoff plate to cover the holes in the intake manifold.
If the anti afterburn valve inside the acv was broken/leaking, then your idle might very well change if you remove and blockoff the acv mating surface with a plate.
Removing the acv does ......squat for performance. Nadda. Zippity do dah. Zilch. Virtually the same can be said for the removal of the airpump removal.
The exception is when you let off the pedal , then it injects a small amount of air into the intake to prevent backfire.
The removal should not effect the idle unless you don't make a good blockoff plate to cover the holes in the intake manifold.
If the anti afterburn valve inside the acv was broken/leaking, then your idle might very well change if you remove and blockoff the acv mating surface with a plate.
Removing the acv does ......squat for performance. Nadda. Zippity do dah. Zilch. Virtually the same can be said for the removal of the airpump removal.
I also gave the BAC a good scrubbing, and fab'd a tube that runs directly from the air pump into the air silencer and put by aux. port activator valve back ina dn it should work well. I'll just have to re-adjust the bleader to get the timing correct again.
I also found out my front actuator was frozen solid. It took alot of carb cleaner and pounding to get it to un-freeze but it's back in shape and working smoothly again. It's probably been frozen since I got the car. It was always buried under the ACV hose so I never gave it a good look. I figured since the back one works fine, the front should too, but I must've not had enough back pressure to open both. Either that or the channel between them is clogged, in which case I'll be waiting until I port the runners to fix that.
I'll report how she runs after removing that skanky ***** ACV in the morning.
