Denholm

I heard it through the grape vine that it was a bad idea to just do a quick spray down of a rotary engine, due to the ammount of exposed electrical..

I'm not sure if this topic has been covered, but I didn't find anything with 'search.'

What can and can't get wet? What needs to be removed before hosing it down?
etc..etc..

If this has already been written up I'd be grateful if someone could point me in the right direction.

Thanks,

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

take your hood off, battery and alternator out, hose and let dry.

Bukwild

use a degreeser and compressed air. The compressed air will get all that 20 year old grime right out. Trust me

Go48

iTrader: (7)

Spray the really gunked up grease/oil/dirt spots with something like Simple Green or one of the engine cleaner aerosol sprays. Let it sit for a few minutes and spray it off with the hose. Don't leave the cleaner on any longer than that. If necessary, do it again for the really bad spots. Not necessary to remove any components, but go easy on the electrical components with the spray. If you are concerned about the electrical components, cover them with plastic bags. I don't cover anything and have not had any problems. When everything is squeaky clean, start the car and warm up the engine to help with the drying process.

Digi7ech

iTrader: (1)

Electronics don't like water when they're running.

With no current they are simply metal wires.

I use the pressure washer on the lower end of my engine every few months to clean off the damn gunk from a bad OMP seal.

Just be careful where you spray. Don't go blasting wires directly(force could shatter some of the brittle ones)

BTW a pressure washer will turn a 3 hours job into a 3 minute job.

The Wankler

iTrader: (14)

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ Word, and I follow up with my compressor to dry as much off as possible.

deadRX7Conv

I clean my engine in the summer when its nice and warm out. This way, any water will evaporate in a couple of hours while the hood is up.
I start with a cold engine, foam the compartment up, wait a bit, and then hose her clean. I let it dry for at least an hour, start her up, take her for a run to allow engine heat to get any last water out, cool her off completely, and then coat with a detailing spray.
Avoid any on purpose contact with electrical components, airfilter,...... water hose pressure might knock some poorly connected things.
And, relube/grease hinges/locks/latchs........

Your local autoparts/department stores are full of products for this purpose. Some will leave a 'kerosene' smell for a couple of days. If you don't like that smell, then use any of the green/yellow/orange/envirosafe/citrus degreasers.

http://www.midwayautosupply.com/manu...ine%20Cleaners

http://www.autopia-carcare.com/inf-engine.html

Valkyrie

I've also noticed that the engine degreaser from NAPA kicks the crap out of degreaser from Advance Auto...

If you have a fillable spray bottle or something, buying it concentrated is a much better use of your money than buying a bunch of aerosol cans (which you can use for about 5 minutes before you need a new one).

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

I never use a pressure washer since it forces water into areas it was not meant to go.

Honestly none of my engine bays are currently dirty enough to need anything other then a cloth and a little car wash soap...But for really dirty engine bays I soak in Castrol Super Clean, then rinse from above with a hose. A brush is needed in some areas and keep the Super Clean away from anything with a bearing. Don't let it sit on aluminium for very long either.

RN's X-7

Spray the engine with Gunk or what ever degreaser you like. Go to a self service carwash, this is important because why dirty up your own driveway while the engine is running spray with the high pressure water rinse, and repeat as needed. If you have a cold air DO NOT GET THE FILTER. I have been cleaning engines for a long time and this works well. After that get some tire dressing spray the entire engine, drive home and by that time the engine will nice and shinny.