You are a troll who repeats anything you read.

 

You're harassing me and I'm reporting it good day mate

 

Only thing worse than trolls, is people who do not even know the origin or meaning of the term.

 

This is awesome info. Thanks.. now the only thing that i don't really understand is smaller porting is better? why if i may ask? I think i will be selling my FP Green for a T4. ALso what EMS did you use in your 392WHP car?

 

bigger ports on a rotary usually mean a loss in low end torque, while they can make more peak power, the power band you actually use can be decreased as a whole rather then a improvement. The sizing of your "best suited port" vary based on how the car will be used.

also I have never had a bridge ported car but I have heard they are a huge pain to drive on the street, I would honestly research this further from a shop that actually deals with them though. There is quite a few things I have heard will be "unbearable" driving on the street only to actually do it and barely notice a difference.

 

It definitely makes sense the change in the top end but very interesting about the bottom end. Thanks for that info. The car will be a Road Track Only vehicle so i will be relying more in the top end but according to my research, i do not want to go Bridge Ported. I want a Mild Street Port (i will be doing the porting my self). I found Pineapple racing port template so i will be using theirs (or is there a better one?)

also, do you know how to clean the Oil and Coolant ports of the housings and irons? they seem pretty rusted so i want to clean them properly.

 

the rotor housings can be bead blasted or soda blasted. careful with the coolant seal areas on the housings, if the housings are pitted you will need to epoxy them for a smooth surface again.

for the irons, remove the stat gears, oil pump, oil filter pedestal, everything from them and set them in a tub of simple green overnight and then scrub them with a stiff brush and hose them off. you won't get the rust out of the coolant passages completely so don't bother trying.

i also have a direct bolt on turbo that should be capable of about 350whp(with proper supporting mods, not included) if you are interested.

 

I remember seeing this car for sale in the san diego craigslist. almost copped it myself! good choice man, your girl is lucky. gonna keep posted on this thread I hope you get this beast back on the road soon.

now if I could only get my t2 in the same spot haha

 

So i could build my engine back like this again?



[/QUOTE]i also have a direct bolt on turbo that should be capable of about 350whp(with proper supporting mods, not included) if you are interested.[/QUOTE]

please PM me the turbos specs.. I am definitely interested.

 

Yup.. it was in East San Diego. it was a PITA to go get it since i live about 3 hours away from where it was.. i even got a speeding ticket with my truck and trailer on the way there! My girl is definitely lucky.. she better put out 24/7 after this project is done lol.

 

haha right?!
I had to drive to alta loma to get mine last weekend 3 hours of driving at 55 with a trailer isn't so fun...

 

the stock ports are already sized really well for a turbo, so if there is too small, just right and too big, the stock ports are sized at just right. especially the exhaust. i'd just clean any casting boogers out of the intake ports and buy more seals/housings.

the ECU we used was an E6K, but that was because that was what was available at the time, now the E6K is like trying to run your car with two sticks rubbed together. i like the haltech platinum, its 10,000times better than the E6K. the japanese really like the power FC, and its not the easiest ecu, but its accurate, which is the most important thing.

 

Hmm interesting. I see so many people wanting to do porting job so I naturally assumed that it would be better than stock. I'm considering about leaving them stock now. If import them I will be doing the porting myself so I won't spend money on them other than In the templates and bits and all that (max $100 I'm assuming). I have ported and polished various piston engines blocks so i know how to a pretty decent job. Also what do you mean by more seals/housings? Doesn't the Atkins kit come with all hose seals? I was planing on going with that kit unless you recommend otherwise. Also now that I have my engine apart are there any other internal secrets that I should know for better performance? Perhaps block off something or port something else... Etc...?

I have been looking for the PFC as far as EMS. My tuner is really good with it. Now I haven't found one for a decent price. I would like to spend less than $1000 on it. I have had quite a few people to go for the haltech. I'm still weighing my options and cost.

Quick random question: can I run my stock ECU with mild street ports while in break in period?

 

the rotary has a lot more seals, and places to seal than a piston engine, plus the strokes are longer (270 degrees vs 180 for a boinger), so there is more time for the seals to leak.

thus good sealing is important, i'd spend the $1100 on rotor housings. it makes a bigger difference than the porting does.

re the porting, we're mostly boys, we want to pull the motor and grind huge ports in it, and then weld stuff, but for 350-400hp a smaller port is better than a bigger one.

you can use the stock ECU to break it in, it'll be totally fine if you put the stock turbo on there for break in too. if you put a big turbo + stock ecu, you have to be careful

 

Really? i live minutes from alta loma lol.. how come i didnt see yours lol?? post a pic of your mate.

 

I took my rotor housings last night to a buddy of mine that has experience with the 13B powerplant and he told me that my housings were virtually new. He was pretty impressed on how great they were along with the rotors. Also, from all the research that i have done it seems like i got really lucky in the motor as internally everything is pretty darn good but externally it looks pretty rusty. (normal wear and tear?). I will post a picture of them later on today so you all could see them.

Thank you for the porting clarification. i think i will still do a small streetport since i got everything out. Now i wont go anymore for the medium streetport "race" as i wanted originally. Knowing that i dont want to put no more than 400WHP as a overall goal i think a small sport woudl be better. Plus i'm pretty sure my girl will be learning how to break and will be breaking a lot in the track the first couple of months so she will definitely need the low end power.

and as far as ECU, yes i was planing on breaking it in with the stock turbo. perhaps even running it like that for a few thousand miles until she gets comfortable with the power delivery.

would i be able to push the streetported engine with the stock turbo on the stock ECU?

also, any recommendations on which rebuild kit to buy?

 

hope that worked

 

SWEET!! its clean man!! congrats! whats wrong with it?

 

not very far! more than 220rwhp/10psi and you're at the edge of what the stock ecu can do safely, it needs more fuel, and then the timing is looking really aggressive.

back in the day people were running 15psi on the stock ECU's, but its not a great idea

i like all OEM seals, the quality control is WAY better, they use better materials. the only real issue is that Mazda chose a hard seal that offers good wear, but is harder on housings, vs the aftermarket which is usually softer

 

just found out motor is toasted via comperssion test =/ rear rotor is angry haha
and thanks! time for a rebuild.

 

This wasnt mentioned, maybe it slipped past , but when running the stock ecu it will fuel cut at 8.5psi from a built in feature supposedly made for safety.

To avoid this you'll need a fuel cut defender if you go beyond that 8.5 psi

 

I dont think i would go beyond 8.5. I would like to not tamper with the ECU stock setting.THanks for that info though.

 

quick question, will the S4 Tranny bolt on directly to the S5 Engine?

 

yep, bolt pattern for the engine is the same 74-2013

 

I got bad news.. i think i will have to sell the project ='( .. i just received a call informing me that i will have to move out of state so unfortunately the build will need to be put on hold. I have a month and a half to pack and go so i will be selling lots of crap actually. Dang it! I was so freaking exited about this project and wanted to learn more about the powerplant. Somehow i will try to keep her but if i cant i wish she goes to good hands. I guess life threw me a curve ball.

I have already spent quite some money on as i sent the intake manifolds to get sand blasted and polished, sent the housings steam cleaned so i could get rid of all that coolant decay in the ports, spent all sort of pennies buying the proper cleaning tools (heck ill throw that with the deal), spent time measuring the housings, rotors, eccentric shaft, etc... and cleaned the begeezus out of the car making sure there was no rust, bent frames and none of that ish.

I hate to have come to this in such short time but life offered me a full scholarship for my masters degree in another state so i cant deny this opportunity. Will be posting a for sale thread in a few minutes. Let me know if anyone is interested. I will still sell the car for cheap, i will basically take my loses in towing the car, buying parts, measuring all parts and all that.

wish me well mates..