You bet, I am not going anywhere..... :0)


As well, I am looking forward to seeing yours!

Thank you!


LOLOL... that is why you see the TB to the left as a ref....

:0)

 

Someone asked me to show some pics, so I will note what I did.

I found it cheaper to buy a Summit Battery Relocation kit then to buy just the wire from my local auto parts store. I did not used the black battery case, it is to tall for the lid to close. Still, even though I did not use it in the kit, the kit as cheaper than buying JUST the cable at my local store.

I cut out a piece of plywood and plcaed that under the battery tray. Bolted it through the underbody. I bought a 100amp breaker from the local stereo shop. Mounted it to the side of the bin. Grounded the negative to the chassis.


Then I ran the HOT cable through the other side of the bin, added a splitter for things like a amp, and the Fuel Pump Relay mod as decribed on 1300ccpro.com?


Ran the Hot under the wood shield.


Drilled through the firewall right below the Clutch.


Used a rubber groment to protect the shielding. The bit I used is at the bootm of the page.


Rand the Hot down the wall and then bought the splitter from some stereo shop online. Ran it up to the Terminal Relocation so I would have a positive to work with in the engine bay. The BMW's are like this. My ladies battery is in the rear under the passenger seat. That is where I got this idear...


Also ran re-ran the hots that go to the Main Fuse box. You dont see the negative hooked up, but I cut it at the adapter that mounts it to the Body. You will see it on yours.



Close up of terminal - bought it at Jegs



The bit I used - Short, universal, and easy to use. Got it at OSH.

Hope that helps.

 

sweet battery location setup. well thought out and looks good and functional.

 

looks great but the battery positive junction block looks a bit hazardous.

hope you get it all finished and can make it down to the rotaryextreme BBQ next month.

 

Yeah, I should insulate it some more. I will. Thanks.

I am gonna try my best to make it. What is the date again?

 

not even sure, i don't think the date has been finalized just yet.

 

thanks! Sure cleaned up the engine bay!

 

I had the waistgate ported at a place here in Livermore called Valley Machine. Great f'n people. They also do great alluminum welding. Highly recomended.
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BeCool wrap
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Runing the IC now. Getting my BOV welded on at the moment. I will run lots of ducting to force the air through the rad channel.<br>
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sweeeeet

 

nice work

 

Looks incredible and 100 forum bucks to you for sharing it with us.

Who polished your manifolds?

 

LOLOLOLOL................



I polished the manifolds. It took forever, and I looked like a coal miner every night!

 

damn you. lol. looks good though!! ill see you around brother!

 

Smoke'n car , keep up the good work !

 

Someone asked me to help them with this. Here are some pics of how I ran it.

I tapped the existing banjo bolt with ta 1/8 npt tap. Screwed a m/f 1/8 npt 90 on it. Then a 1/8 npt male to a -4 an male fitting. Then the -4 an coupler w/the hose on it.





line runs behind water jacket.


The brass fitting is the restrictor. The aluminum adapter and restrictor can be bought from ATPTURBO.com Other parts: 1/8 npt to -4an 90, and a -4 an coupler.



Just another view.

 

Tapping that bonjo bolt looks like the hard way to do it.
Why didn't you just use a metric-an adapter for $5-$10?

Also, you should never use teflon tape with -an fittings. The threads have nothing to do with sealing the fitting. The seal comes from the mating of the two 37' seats and if for some reason the seal leaks, as with a scored/mutilated surface, the teflon tape wouldn't do a damn thing anyways. The leak woud find its way out the back of the threaded fitting

 

I have all the taps and chose not to wait for the part. Rotorfest was a couple days away. I will change it out over the winter.

I only used teflon on the ntp sides, was that bad? I was told to, but removing it would be no big.

 

I only see Teflon tape on the NPT side of adapter fittings.

NPT fittings really need some kind of sealant (tape or pipe dope) to seal, though they can be installed without sealant if torqued to all hell. The Aeroquip catalog specifies that NPT fittings with sealant get hand tightened then tightened another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Without sealant they need to be torqued another 2 turns according to the catalog. Good luck getting most NPT fittings to go 2 turns beyond hand tight.

 

Thanks Aaron. I though for minute, "Did I make a 3rd grade mistake?"..... Then I looked over the pics and felt better. Guess I could remove the excess on the outside to get more bling bling like Rx-Heven!

 

Thanks for all your help guys!

 

As always your thread delivers! Attention to detail (a man after my own heart) Keep em' coming.

 

Thank you!

photos by rotorheads from the fest.

 

simply beautiful, I love your battery relocation setup, i will most likely be copying it what is that second air filter for by your rad cap and the "cold side" of you IC piping?

Your fuel setup is amazing as well, I'm thinking of doing is just because it looks better, not becuse I'm pushing that sort of power lol

great job man, I might have to make a trip out to cali to see all the wonderful rx's out there

 

whats the restrictor pill for, i'm lost, pretty car though

 

Thanks!

It is a breather for oil blowby. Catches the excess oil that normaly circulates back into you intake.