Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

The GT35/40 has been a popular turbo for FD's for a long time. IMO I don't think it's very cost effective. The new GT series isnt' THAT much more efficent over the old series.

Tunning can make as big as difference on spool time as BB to non-BB. Is that 300rpm worth it?

That being said I do have a BB wet section turbo (62-1)

there's something about the sound of a BB and the peace of mind of a wet section.

I've found that if you cut the oil return line on the solid metal section a -16 AN slides over it nicely and no fittings are required.

RXciting

Hey Aaron, just a quick thought/comment on something i found while welding my my manifold together. try turning the feed down and the Amps up a bit and you'll get cleaner wels with less splash. Then again i've only been welding for a year just thought i'd drip that bit of knoledge i have.

Engine looks awesome though. Very nice!

Get er done and hopefully bring it out to the next meet!

Frank

Havoc

Hey mate, great work, but with your wiring for your sound system Id change your wiring so all your power for the amps etc etc goes up the other side, it stops the chance of electrical interference in your signal wires, and even with Well shielded RCA's you get it a lot.... and their nothing worse then having a great sounding car and you can hear engine noise etc but looks great

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I was refering to them on FC's, not very common to find!

I don't think you can beat my cost effectiveness, $400!

Mx6-Rx7 Addict

I find it hard to beleive that a GT35R will spool as fast as a stocker. As a matter of fact, i beleive you are going to have a horrible time staying out of boost with a half bridge NA with a stock HT-18. What ever floats your boat though.

Nice work.

-Justin

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I think they'd be pretty close. The stocker is what, around a 1.00 hotside? The GT35's run a 1.06, not all too far of a difference.

ultradef

Nice...seems like the GT35R is quickly gaining popularity with FCs. I can't wait until A-Spec releases the T4 footprint...I think this is going to be my next turbo when I upgrade. I'm sure you'll see some crazy response time with the BP and high compression.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

I think setup properly it would be close also.

The increased wheel efficiency, BB, back pressure, manifold design, tuning, heat wrapping, etc all play a factor.

If I could I'd stay in boost the rest of my life

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

I think there is a smaller .82 A/R for the t3 footprint.

My concern with a small hot side would be the turbo dieing out in the higher rpm. Especially with a bridge -you want to stay up there and maximize it.

Now since he's running Hi-comp i doubt he will look at some serious psi numbers and this mostly likely will not be a problem.

I'd size a fairly large external with the bridge/hi-comp/low desired boost and make sure that it's a effiecient manifold design.

400 bucks for a gt35r would kick ***.

RETed

Oh boy...where to start...
Am I going to butcher this thread or what?


-Ted

RETed

I disagree.
There are other ways to combat boost creep, and porting the wastegate is only one option.
I've ported S4 turbo WG's before with good success even with 3" exhaust systems.
Unless you're going bigger, I see no reason to have to go overboard with the porting.



-Ted

RETed

Again, I disagree with this.
I've been using existing stock grommets / rubber harness boots to run cables through with no problems.
I've run 1/0 cable through the main power harness on my '87 with no problems.

If you're worried about shorting, then something is seriously wrong.
You don't leave big cables like that flapping around loose - I secure both ends after passing through the firewall on existing wiring, and this keeps is from moving around.

If you're worried about a short in a collision, I think you need to worry about yourself before worrying about the electrical system in your car.
This is why I run dual circuit breakers or fuses on both ends of the battery cables to prevent damage from shorts.


-Ted

RETed

This one scares me.
The washers look like zinc plated stuff?
Even if it was stainless steel, most of the parts inside the turbo turbine are high nickel content iron.
I'd be surprised if your welds actually hold up.
I'd put money it will all come apart in weeks.
TIG *might* hold, but you've confirmed using a MIG.


-Ted

RETed

Elbows and 90-degree fittings are big no-no's for turbo oil drain lines.
Check with Turbonetics.


-Ted

RETed

ESD?
Are you talking about arcing?
Typically, arcing potential rises as voltage does.
Since we're talking nominal 12VDC stuff, it's highly unlikely it'll arc.
Unless there is a manufacturer defect or something stupid happens, I doubt it'll arc.
These components are typically rated to like 600V (try check the casting).


-Ted

RETed

This is still not recommended from almost all the turbo shops.
Try and ask them.

Rule of thumbs for turbo oil drains should be the biggest you can afford, straightest path as possible, and should drain above the oil line.

I try to use -12 if possible.
-10 is sometimes okay, if you can't afford or get the -12 stuff.
Why so big?
It has nothing to do with the SS AN line itself - the adapters and connectors are all necked down - try and look into one of them, and it's significantly smaller than the hose I.D.
In fact, flanged pipes are probably the best drain lines, as they aren't neck down like AN fittings are...weird, huh.


-Ted

RETed

What "old series"?
T04B?
T04E?
You gotta be kidding me, right?
You do realize that your typical GT35R or GT3540 uses a *T3* turbine section!
So how can the GT35R get away with a T3 sized turbine section when the 13B can spool a full T04 (turbine section)???
Think about it...


Sure, but in my experience, the BB center is good for almost 1,000RPM faster spool-up.


Is that from Turbonetics?
I guess you got bent over then.


-Ted

RETed

Dude, you have no idea what you're talking about.
Have you ever experienced a GT35 properly tuned???
I think you haven't.
On a 13B street port, it spools just as quick as a stock turbo.
GO ASK hIGGI.

The BP will cause the turbo to spool even FASTER, if done right.
In fact, with the 1.06 biggest A/R option, I think the turbine section will even CHOKE the potential of the BP motor.

For BP's, I would rather run something as large as 1.3 or bigger!


-Ted

RETed

Yes, I was bored.

I guess it doesn't matter if I say this, as I'm sure people are still going to take it the wrong way...
There's a lot of falsehoods in this thread that I wanted to clear up.
If you don't believe me, I've put references if possible to back up my claims.
I want to see this car run...oddly enough.
(I still think it's going to blow up. )

3 more hours till the weekend!


-Ted

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

Is it OK to use a AN 90 degree (-12) off the turbo then straight into the front cover? Not sure if you're talking all bends or not, or possibly even a 45 into the front cover?

Snrub

iTrader: (1)

How serious are you on this one Ted? How much money are you willing to risk? Are you seriously willing to stand behind what you're saying or is this egomaniacal BS?

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

I guess my statement was too broad. I keep forgetting about the T3 on the gt35/40 if i don't constantly remind myself.

I guess I was think'n more of the GT40 or GT42. Like the GT42 compared to a T78.

-point noted.

Never knew BB was as much as 1k too

I think it's a Turbonetics

I got it used after it has been rebalanced. Not a big fan of turbonetics? I think they are too pricey but not what I paid for it.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

I personally don't think i'll hold up either.

Usually they use exhaust valves from cars and not washers. I've done that before with good results.

jhammons01

Arron and ReTED thanks for answering. I was not sure if a ESD would be a problem with the feed throughs. Just a question that you guys obvioulsy have worked through. Good Job.

And Not having a Tig for $$$$ Totally indefensible you should not start building a car until you have every piece of proper equipment to handle the job (That my friends was sarcasm)

My questions were merely posed for thought provocation. Not criticism

Again, you do really nice work.

Aaron Cake

iTrader: (1)

Since I do all my welding outdoors, I don't see the point of running gas. Since my driveway forms a very efficient wind tunnel, any gas shield is blown away. So flux core or stick seems to work best for me. Once I get into TIG, I'll make a little area of the garage into a welding area...

Nope.

That's nice to know.

The welds in the car had to be done very deliberately, with as little current and as much wire lead as possible as to not burn through the thin metal. The wire I was running was MUCH too thick for the job, so it required a delicate and very intermittant touch. When I weld other things (ie. oil pans and such) I can keep the wire speed high and the current at medium, with a short lead out. This keeps splatter under control.

The only issue I have with having that on my car is that the union between the braided stainless and the stock pipe is a perfect leak point. I saw several failures in this area with my original rubber oil drain. While in the short term I wouldn't have a problem with it, reliability is foremost on my mind at this point. I want to drive the car 1000 KM at the spur of the moment without worrying (like I can do with the Honda).

I knew someone would say it. The cables on the driver side are strictly audio and MP3 player related. They've basically been run that way for about 6 years now, with no interference problems. The trick is to use high quality shielded cable. The cable I have used is tripple shielded. An initial wire braid covers a foil shield, and then each wire is individually shielded. The only difference between the original 6 year old setup and the setup now is the addition of a few signal wires, an extra speaker wire, and the zip ties. But in normal circumstances, I would never recommend that anyone set up an audio system like this. It works for me because I have used the proper (VERY expensive) cable.

Apparently, the spool on the GT35 is amazing. Locally, there's a guy that runs one on his FD, and apparently the response is instant...

Now, definitly I will have a hard time keeping the stock turbo out of boost. However, it's mostly a mental thing. If I don't have that big turbine on there and only have the puny stock unit, I'll keep my foot out of it. Or at least have less chance of getting myself in trouble. Plus, using my existing turbo setup initially means that I can GET THE CAR ON THE ROAD faster with a tested system. After having my car sitting in the garage for 3 years, that becomes important.

I hate to nit-pick, but I did not say "this is the only way to combat boost creep". I did say "This is the ONLY way to effectively port the wastegate.". I guess I could have been more clear and said something like "In my opinion, this is the only way to effectivily port the stock wastegate in extreme creep cases.".

That's fine. Both methods are completely valid. But in my opinion, I don't feel comfortable running high current wires directly through the firewall. Long before I was interested in RX-7s, I was into EVs. In the EV world, it is not uncommon to run cables which carry thousands of amps continuously, and are connected to battery packs capable of supplying megawatts into a short. When you are dealing with that kind of power, you get a new appreciation for the words "high current short circuit". I've seen inch thick copper bus bars literally vaporize under these conditions. I'm not saying that we need to follow the same rules in this case, but it couldn't hurt.

Plus, if you read my initial statement, it said "There is absolutely no excuse for bringing cables through unprotected firewall connections.". Grommits clearly qualify as a protected firewall passthrough.

Unfortunately, I've been in about 7 collisions since I have had this car, none of which were my fault. Once of which was very serious. If I had a rear mounted battery in that case, there would have been a direct short without a doubt. I will be running breakers as well. And since breakers sometimes fail, there will be an additional fuse in series before the breaker. Anyone who doesn't run fuses/breakers is just an idiot in my books.

Yep, they're just hardware store washers. I agree, those welds are pretty bad (I ran out of nozzles, and this one was having feed issues...I also didn't have any electrodes for the buzz box). But they're plenty strong enough for this application. I don't exactly see how TIG would make a difference. While you could get slightly better penetration with a TIG machine, this is hardly a structural application...

The stock drain has two 90 degree bends. Many aftermarket turbo kits include multiple bends and 90 degree fittings. Besides, my original setup worked fine (even though it was much less.....refined?) and had no draining issues. If it makes you feel any better, after the turbo upgrade, there will only be 1 90 degree fitting used.

I'm not sure how to take that. I could point out that the original turbo-NA setup worked fine with spectacular results. Or that others have done the same thing and had similar results. Or that I'm doing it "right" this time with a standalone and a fuel system up to the task. Or that this is not exactly the first engine I have built or the first RX-7 I have worked on. But I won't.

I was about to say that it sounds good in theory, until you start to add the cost up and get to about $3K for a base TIG setup...but that was sarcasm, so it's OK.