problems instaling engine
07-31-07, 05:44 PM
#1
mmm doritos
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problems instaling engine
i have a 87TII that ive been trying to put an engine in and ive run into some problems..i cant get the engine at the right angle so it can mate up to the tranny it only needs to go about an inch till its up against the tranny..it looks like it needs to drop down so it can line up but the motor mount studs are hitting on the crossmember and it must mate to the tranny before the studs will go into the holes..anyone have any tips? can i take off the mounts until i have splines lined up and the motor bolted to the tranny then bolt them back up? how do you guys usually do it?
07-31-07, 05:50 PM
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remove the pucks, bolt in the tranny, raise the engine with a jack or a crane and put the pucks back in. I always have to do that. But now, everytime I take out an engine, I pull the tranny out with it. So much easier.
07-31-07, 06:36 PM
#3
mmm doritos
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thats what i thought i might have to do...i got new motor mounts but what are those metal dishes that where on the old mounts? they fit over the stud and nothing holds them in so they fukin fall out all the time when im trying to put the motor in..whats the trick with those things?
08-01-07, 06:34 AM
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Yes, its like a black metal puck with another rubber puck in it and there is one stup that goes through the whole puck so it screws in the cross member and in the mount itself.
What you are missing is the nut that goes on top.
What you are missing is the nut that goes on top.
08-01-07, 07:05 AM
#6
mmm doritos
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no...the mount itself is one peice the puck that faces down that has the rubber mount attached to it..(its all one peice) then once that assembaly is bolted to the motor you have another metal puck that goes underneth the mount...it goes over the mount stud and gets sandwiched between the rubber and the crossmember..wtf is this peice?
08-01-07, 07:32 AM
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Ummm...its supposed to be one piece.
I'm not sure I'm getting this right, but if you have the rubber puck in one hand and a metal round shape in your other hand, you need a new motor mount. It means it cracked and is no good.
Like so:
I'm not sure I'm getting this right, but if you have the rubber puck in one hand and a metal round shape in your other hand, you need a new motor mount. It means it cracked and is no good.
Like so:
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08-01-07, 07:55 AM
#9
No, the picture shown is accurate but not complete. You also have a metal disk on the other side. OP, I use a little masking tape on the threads at the bottom to hold the disk on the bottom.
The complete mount would be the large metal disk with the rubber and two studs attached shown in the picture, and then an identical large metal disk on the other side, making the mount, studs, and metal pieces completely symmetrical.
On all occasions I have removed the engine or tranny separately (concensus is that removing them together is easier so I'll try that next), so what I do is I put the engine in first. Lign up the side with just the hole in the subframe first. The other side has an "L-slot" in the subframe which helps the engine tilt into position.
Leave the nuts for the engine mount off on the subframe side when it comes to installing the tranny. Make sure you've used a centering tool to lign the clutch disk up when you bolt the pressure plate on. Tilt the engine with a 2x4 or something back (carefully!) and bring the tranny in at the exact same angle. Have the driveshaft in so someone (wife, SO, etc. easy job) can turn it (have it in gear) to help the input shaft spline align. Do *NOT* force the tranny in. It's amazing how easily it should go in when everything's aligned. I'm going backwards here so make a list. Make sure the pilot bearing and (separate) seal are in and that it is greased (previous comment about not forcing it in is because of this).
Oh, and make sure the car is *safely* supported with jack stands for obvious reasons. This is an easy job for three people (one tilting the engine, one moving tranny and a third turning the driveshaft very slowly).
The complete mount would be the large metal disk with the rubber and two studs attached shown in the picture, and then an identical large metal disk on the other side, making the mount, studs, and metal pieces completely symmetrical.
On all occasions I have removed the engine or tranny separately (concensus is that removing them together is easier so I'll try that next), so what I do is I put the engine in first. Lign up the side with just the hole in the subframe first. The other side has an "L-slot" in the subframe which helps the engine tilt into position.
Leave the nuts for the engine mount off on the subframe side when it comes to installing the tranny. Make sure you've used a centering tool to lign the clutch disk up when you bolt the pressure plate on. Tilt the engine with a 2x4 or something back (carefully!) and bring the tranny in at the exact same angle. Have the driveshaft in so someone (wife, SO, etc. easy job) can turn it (have it in gear) to help the input shaft spline align. Do *NOT* force the tranny in. It's amazing how easily it should go in when everything's aligned. I'm going backwards here so make a list. Make sure the pilot bearing and (separate) seal are in and that it is greased (previous comment about not forcing it in is because of this).
Oh, and make sure the car is *safely* supported with jack stands for obvious reasons. This is an easy job for three people (one tilting the engine, one moving tranny and a third turning the driveshaft very slowly).
08-01-07, 05:10 PM
#11
mmm doritos
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ok i got it!! i took the mounts off bolted the engine to the tranny then bolted the mounts back upbut left the left side mount lose so i could adjust it to fit into the crossmember hole
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