OK rotor heads... I need HELP!!! I have to get my 7 running and I've exhausted all my knowledge and am still in the same position.

I have a 90 convertable that I have done a engine and tranny swap on. I traded the stock engine for a ported 13B out of a 88 and traded the automatic tranny for the manual out of the same 88. Went from S5 automatic to S4 manual setup. Now the car "wants" to start but it sounds like it either has a injector circut problem or ignition cut problem. I've tried everything from changing to a 550 injector, replacing the fuel pump, TPS, etc. Now I'm looking for a 89 and up wiring diagram for a manual and automatic transmission. Can anyone help?!?!?! Or... does anyone have any other ideas? Does the ECU have to change to an 88? Could that be the problem? I'm leaning to the wiring.


More info... the car will roll start and holds idle fine at high rpms. But the car dies at low rpms (1200 and under). Also, the "HOLD" light continued to flash until I unplugged the sensor.


PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Do a compression test on engine first to see if it has enough compression to start on it's own. Also I believe you need a S4 ECU.

 

lol... dude you forgot to unplug the trany computer. It makes the engine think there is no tranny, so it fuel cuts the engine.

Damn, sucks you went through all that trouble for some trivial thing.

Seriously, i pity you, I mean i do laugh about it-- but I had the same problem when I did my 5spd swap. Then again, I didn't start replacing stuff that has NOTHING to do with a 5spd swap....

Next time RTFM.


TRanny comp is on the passenger right kickpanel , tear off the carper and molding and its there. unplug and the car will run fine (so long as you haven't fucked anything else up in your journey to try to fix this problem).

[EDIT--> IM A ******* TARD TO DODAY, SEE BELOW]

EDIT: S4 ecus don't handle OMP, so acutally doing this would throw the car in limp mode, not that it would run anyway-- because S5 and S4 intakes are FAR too different.


EDIT:

RTFM, looks like you missed step six. I suggest you read the entire archived thread and see what else you missed before you have an incorrect speedo reading or don't have an idle.

Sorry im not usually a dick, just having a bad day

 

"Speak not if you don't know. He needs the S5 ECU or the car won't run. The auto tranny has its own computer and is COMPLETELY unrelated to the ECU or body CPU. How would you feel is this guy went out and bought a S4 ECU and fried all 4 injectors and OMP because you thought you were right.

EDIT: S4 ecus don't handle OMP, so acutally doing this would throw the car in limp mode, not that it would run anyway-- because S5 and S4 intakes are FAR too different."



Doesnt he need the s4 ecu since he's using a motor out of an 88' ?

 

Lol... DAMN YOU. Guess thats what I get for not reading the thread.

He will need the S4 ECU with S4 LOW-Imp injectors (the ones originaly on the S4 manny).

Coincidentaly, only the s5 autobox was ECAT, so I'm not sure how it interfaces the S4 ECU.

Sucks he needs the other ecu though. Still, the problem is going to reside in the autobox comp, so long as he hasn't done anything else he shouldnt have.

 

I have a 1991 automatic...who did you trade the tranny with? and what you going to do with the computer?

 

I'll be heading out to the garage tomorrow and I'll try the tranny cpu. I thought I unplugged it but it's possible I unplugged the antitheft and just thought I unplugged the tranny cpu. If that's all it takes, you guys will be on my christmas list!!! (and I'll admit I'm an idiot) <--- "for Kenteth"

Thanks again guys!


BTW Kenteth.... I don't use the manual. Perhaps that's a problem but I like the challange (untill now).

 

Dowload the entire FSM. Its still a challenge, you just don't make so many costly mistakes.

The Antitheft ECU is actually part of the Body CPU on the S5s. Its on the driverside left kickpanel.

The Tranny computer is labled ECAT or EAT, you'll know it when you see it. Its directly foreward the passneger side door behind the panneling.

 

Any idea where I can download the FSM for free. I had all the micros but lost them in a move.

 

check the FAQ in this forum, its on a stickie thread. infact, read the entire faq

 

Sorry to bother again Kenteth... but I can't find the link to the manual. I tried unplugging the ATF cpu but it's still not starting. I think the guy that's helping with the swap has mixed something up in the wiring. I figure if I go back to the source (wiring manual for an automatic transmission) I can start over.

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Thanks again!

 

Found it..... THANKS!!!!!!!!

 

any luck getting her running?

 

If your using a S4 engine use a S4 ecu, wiring harness and injectors/omp etc.. alot easier to do it this way..plug and play

 

No luck yet Kenteth. I'm starting to think it might be an internal problem. Question: Would a slipped corner seal cause poor idle but yet still provide good compression? I have good compression from both sides but still can't get it to start. I'm lost here.

 

Why do you need one? Anyways your car will run with the A/T computer still connected. Your hold light will flash but thats it.

 

did u splice the wires for the neuteral safty swich together???? if its a s4 wiring harness then its a big 4 prong clip and the top 2 wires need to be spliced and the other 2 and collur matched on the menuel tranny so its easy to figgure out. but if thats it its an easy but annoying thing

 

for some reason i thought there was a fuel cut?

 

Maybe but your car will still run fine. When I did my swap I didn't unplug it and my thermosensor was unplugged. So even though I pulled a 1.92 60ft I ended up running 18 flat@73mph (at 4700ft) Couldn't figure out what was the deal. But my **** didn't run any different when I unplugged my A/T computer. It was when I loosened up my 5th and 6th ports and plugged my thermosensor back in when I finally got my top end back.