problem of cooling system: the temperature of the engine of my NA FC is too cold
02-12-08, 02:16 PM
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problem of cooling system: the temperature of the engine of my NA FC is too cold
hello..every dear menbers..i am a new menber...i am happy to join you
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i own a 86 NA FC....but something is wrong with my FC....
i dont know why the temperature of the cooling water is always at very low level..it is about 1/5.....
is it that the temperature of the engine is too cold?...
i heard that the temperature of the cooling water should be at a leve which is a little bit lower than the half....
i have replaced the old thermostat with a new one.......why does it still too cold?
and i found that the cooling fan is always on when i start my car.....is it something wrong with the cooling fan?...is it that the cooling fan is off when the engine just start??
thank you so much....and i am sorry that my english is so poor....hope you can understand what i am saying......thank you so much...
..i own a 86 NA FC....but something is wrong with my FC....
i dont know why the temperature of the cooling water is always at very low level..it is about 1/5.....
is it that the temperature of the engine is too cold?...
i heard that the temperature of the cooling water should be at a leve which is a little bit lower than the half....
i have replaced the old thermostat with a new one.......why does it still too cold?
and i found that the cooling fan is always on when i start my car.....is it something wrong with the cooling fan?...is it that the cooling fan is off when the engine just start??
thank you so much....and i am sorry that my english is so poor....hope you can understand what i am saying......thank you so much...
02-12-08, 02:21 PM
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you have a clutch fan it should run at all times...
If you replaced the thermostat with an aftermarket one it is possible that it is to long and may be open at all times keeping the temp to low...
could be many things..
If you replaced the thermostat with an aftermarket one it is possible that it is to long and may be open at all times keeping the temp to low...
could be many things..
02-12-08, 02:31 PM
#3
Also, remember that the clutch fan will "grab" more as the temp. increases, and less as the temp. goes down. Your clutch fan could be grabbing too much at too little temp.
Having said that, depending on the condition of the temp. sender and gauge, your temp. may be just fine.
Having said that, depending on the condition of the temp. sender and gauge, your temp. may be just fine.
02-12-08, 02:31 PM
#4
That is the correct temperature for the 1986-1988 model. Put your old thermostat back in if it's OEM, or get an OEM thermostat (i.e., from Mazda). The OEM thermostat has a tiny hole in it with a jiggle pin. That hole should be at the highest point when you put the thermostat in. Other thermostats do not have this, and are often poor quality. If you get your thermostat at an auto parts store you'll eventually run into trouble. And, if you can, put gasket sealer on the thermostat gasket when you install the thermostat.
The cooling fan is probably unrelated. If it did lock up, the worst it could do is rob a little horsepower. The thermostat will make sure the temperature doesn't get too low.
The cooling fan is probably unrelated. If it did lock up, the worst it could do is rob a little horsepower. The thermostat will make sure the temperature doesn't get too low.
02-12-08, 02:51 PM
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Also, remember that the clutch fan will "grab" more as the temp. increases, and less as the temp. goes down. Your clutch fan could be grabbing too much at too little temp.
Having said that, depending on the condition of the temp. sender and gauge, your temp. may be just fine.
Having said that, depending on the condition of the temp. sender and gauge, your temp. may be just fine.
but my fans is too dirty and i think it is jamed with the clutch completely..so it always "grabs" completely...is it the reason that makes the engine too cold????
02-12-08, 02:56 PM
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That is the correct temperature for the 1986-1988 model. Put your old thermostat back in if it's OEM, or get an OEM thermostat (i.e., from Mazda). The OEM thermostat has a tiny hole in it with a jiggle pin. That hole should be at the highest point when you put the thermostat in. Other thermostats do not have this, and are often poor quality. If you get your thermostat at an auto parts store you'll eventually run into trouble. And, if you can, put gasket sealer on the thermostat gasket when you install the thermostat.
The cooling fan is probably unrelated. If it did lock up, the worst it could do is rob a little horsepower. The thermostat will make sure the temperature doesn't get too low.
The cooling fan is probably unrelated. If it did lock up, the worst it could do is rob a little horsepower. The thermostat will make sure the temperature doesn't get too low.
my thermostat is from mazda and have a jiggle pin...and i put the hole at the highest point too..and i have replaced the old gasket with a new old too....is it that something is wrong with the sensor of the temperature of the cooling water?? and where is the sensor located at??
02-12-08, 04:32 PM
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Well, with it being a clutch fan, it will always be running at zero to low speeds (it might just be that it runs in 1st-2nd gear, I forget). It will always start when the car starts.
I believe the sensor is near the bottom right of the rad (if standing in front of the car looking inside the bay). It should be pretty obvious.
I believe the sensor is near the bottom right of the rad (if standing in front of the car looking inside the bay). It should be pretty obvious.
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02-13-08, 01:42 AM
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Well, with it being a clutch fan, it will always be running at zero to low speeds (it might just be that it runs in 1st-2nd gear, I forget). It will always start when the car starts.
I believe the sensor is near the bottom right of the rad (if standing in front of the car looking inside the bay). It should be pretty obvious.
I believe the sensor is near the bottom right of the rad (if standing in front of the car looking inside the bay). It should be pretty obvious.
.....do you know how to fix this problem?thx
02-13-08, 01:53 AM
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well first s4's are supposed to be only 1/4 the way up at norm temps....the clutch fan should always be spining....check for play when the car is off, there should be some resistance but it should still turn.
there are 3 sensors.....one at the botom of the rad, one at the water pump neck and one on the block(at least i think)
and what happens if the jingle pin isnt at the highest point?
there are 3 sensors.....one at the botom of the rad, one at the water pump neck and one on the block(at least i think)
and what happens if the jingle pin isnt at the highest point?
02-13-08, 02:08 AM
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Uh, that's like normal...
For my '87, that would be about 180F - 190F.
You really should be using an aftermarket temp gauge to get more accurate readings to be sure.
-Ted
For my '87, that would be about 180F - 190F.
You really should be using an aftermarket temp gauge to get more accurate readings to be sure.
-Ted
02-13-08, 07:24 AM
#11
Just to clarify a few things...
The clutch fan uses no sensors. It is filled with some gel-type substance and metallic (bi-metallic I think) strips. It stiffens up with temperature and neither gives nor receives any electrical signal.
The temp switch on the bottom left of the rad. mainly affects operation of the Air Control Valve for Emissions. The sensor at the back of the water pump gives the fuel injection computer (ECU) coolant temp. info. On some cars, there is a sensor at the top of the thermostat housing - this is a temp. switch which activates the auxiliary electric fan (I believe on TII's and auto. transmission cars). The temp. sender for the coolant gauge is threaded to the rear iron near the oil pressure gauge.
BTW, I earlier failed to mention that the thermostat will keep the engine at a certain temp. range, even if the fan is stuck, but that was clarified by another poster. Your engine temp. is fine, but I'd double check with a proper gauge (as noted above).
The clutch fan uses no sensors. It is filled with some gel-type substance and metallic (bi-metallic I think) strips. It stiffens up with temperature and neither gives nor receives any electrical signal.
The temp switch on the bottom left of the rad. mainly affects operation of the Air Control Valve for Emissions. The sensor at the back of the water pump gives the fuel injection computer (ECU) coolant temp. info. On some cars, there is a sensor at the top of the thermostat housing - this is a temp. switch which activates the auxiliary electric fan (I believe on TII's and auto. transmission cars). The temp. sender for the coolant gauge is threaded to the rear iron near the oil pressure gauge.
BTW, I earlier failed to mention that the thermostat will keep the engine at a certain temp. range, even if the fan is stuck, but that was clarified by another poster. Your engine temp. is fine, but I'd double check with a proper gauge (as noted above).
02-13-08, 02:46 PM
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Just to clarify a few things...
The clutch fan uses no sensors. It is filled with some gel-type substance and metallic (bi-metallic I think) strips. It stiffens up with temperature and neither gives nor receives any electrical signal.
The temp switch on the bottom left of the rad. mainly affects operation of the Air Control Valve for Emissions. The sensor at the back of the water pump gives the fuel injection computer (ECU) coolant temp. info. On some cars, there is a sensor at the top of the thermostat housing - this is a temp. switch which activates the auxiliary electric fan (I believe on TII's and auto. transmission cars). The temp. sender for the coolant gauge is threaded to the rear iron near the oil pressure gauge.
BTW, I earlier failed to mention that the thermostat will keep the engine at a certain temp. range, even if the fan is stuck, but that was clarified by another poster. Your engine temp. is fine, but I'd double check with a proper gauge (as noted above).
The clutch fan uses no sensors. It is filled with some gel-type substance and metallic (bi-metallic I think) strips. It stiffens up with temperature and neither gives nor receives any electrical signal.
The temp switch on the bottom left of the rad. mainly affects operation of the Air Control Valve for Emissions. The sensor at the back of the water pump gives the fuel injection computer (ECU) coolant temp. info. On some cars, there is a sensor at the top of the thermostat housing - this is a temp. switch which activates the auxiliary electric fan (I believe on TII's and auto. transmission cars). The temp. sender for the coolant gauge is threaded to the rear iron near the oil pressure gauge.
BTW, I earlier failed to mention that the thermostat will keep the engine at a certain temp. range, even if the fan is stuck, but that was clarified by another poster. Your engine temp. is fine, but I'd double check with a proper gauge (as noted above).
02-13-08, 03:19 PM
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1/5 is exactly where you want your temp gauge, if you ever hit 1/2 or more immediately shut the car off or you'll most likely toast the seals in your motor.
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02-13-08, 05:39 PM
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02-13-08, 11:37 PM
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No I think 190 really is just under half on a working stock s4 gauge. You can actually run with the gauge at 3/4 for several months without any serious problems. That's about 205-210. Overheat comes at 7/8. I know from my old RX7... The s4 gauge is the shizzle b/c it's so darn sensitive. Less than 30 degrees from 1/8 to 3/4. The s5 gauge OTOH...
So if your s4 gauge is ever pushing half or so, fix the problem but fix it when you get home. If it gets high or starts climbing fast or your coolant buzzer goes off, pull over immediately.
So if your s4 gauge is ever pushing half or so, fix the problem but fix it when you get home. If it gets high or starts climbing fast or your coolant buzzer goes off, pull over immediately.
Last edited by ericgrau; 02-13-08 at 11:42 PM.
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