PreMix: Penzoil motor oil + Idamitsu Premix Lube
#1
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PreMix: Penzoil motor oil + Idamitsu Premix Lube
well i imagine i am asking a question that reveals my ignorance of rotary engines. Well this has me stumped. I was woundering if running idamistu premix would be somewhat of a benefit with running penzoil motor oil.
#7
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what do you think i should use Idemistu is a little out of my price range i can only afford the premix and also i see people useing the premix alot at the tuning shop i go to and their cars are stock
Last edited by rx7b13; 07-22-05 at 11:51 PM.
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#13
rawr
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there's not really, running 4oz of premix in the tank with the stock OMP still on gives a bit of protection just in case it fails, you still have some sort of lubrication going in the engine. full pre mix i could see a few small benefits from but nothing huge.
#14
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Originally Posted by rx7b13
penzoil in the oil pan and premix in the gas tank
The premix will never see the engine oil unless you've got horrible flooding problems or running too rich.
Any off-the-shelf TC-W3 will work.
You do not need that Idemitsu stuff.
Valvoline, Castrol makes very good cheap premix.
Synth stuff is pricier - i.e. Redline.
Any shop that handles dirt bikes can help you out also for expensive stuff - i.e. Golden Spectro, etc.
-Ted
#15
Sharp Claws
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pennzoil won't ever touch my car, i hate the stuff with a passion.
Idemitsu is a glorified "rotary premix", just a selling point. any synthetic 2 stroke oil is good for abusive driving like autocrosses or track events and any TCW3 2 stroke oil is fine for mild daily driving.
Idemitsu is a glorified "rotary premix", just a selling point. any synthetic 2 stroke oil is good for abusive driving like autocrosses or track events and any TCW3 2 stroke oil is fine for mild daily driving.
#16
Passing life by
Ok first. DO NOT USE ANYTHING PENZOIL! EVER! ok next DO NOT USE ANYTHING QUAkER STATE! EVER!
Ok now that our motor is happy and not gummed up ****. Premixing is not only for cars without an OMP. It is a must without one but with one you can run a 200:1 ratio and be very happy car. Do a search on premix.
As far as oils do as Karack and ReTed have stated.
Ok for my opinion. I prefer and use these oils. Royal purple, redline, Mobil 1. If you don’t want to spend that kind of money then use Castrol GTX. I run 20W50.
My premixing: Again my opinion and I like good oils. I use Klots or Red Line. If you have a motor without a power valve or any sort of item like a power valve and or cats and baffled mufflers you can use castrol based oil such as blenzoil. Castrol based oils do produce allot of ash content but tend not to be on the combustion itself, it seems to travel IE exhaust ports.
Ok now that our motor is happy and not gummed up ****. Premixing is not only for cars without an OMP. It is a must without one but with one you can run a 200:1 ratio and be very happy car. Do a search on premix.
As far as oils do as Karack and ReTed have stated.
Ok for my opinion. I prefer and use these oils. Royal purple, redline, Mobil 1. If you don’t want to spend that kind of money then use Castrol GTX. I run 20W50.
My premixing: Again my opinion and I like good oils. I use Klots or Red Line. If you have a motor without a power valve or any sort of item like a power valve and or cats and baffled mufflers you can use castrol based oil such as blenzoil. Castrol based oils do produce allot of ash content but tend not to be on the combustion itself, it seems to travel IE exhaust ports.
#17
Passing life by
If you want to know more about premixing, Search my user name for a fairly indepth descushion on it. Karack is familure with what one I am talking about so his name will yield results as well. And read the thread in the archive
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#18
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There is absolutely nothing wrong with Pennzoil or Quaker state oils. In fact, if you do some research on the internet's #1 oil website (www.bobistheoilguy.com) you'll see lab results that show that Pennzoil's additive package is quite strong and equal if not better in some respects than Castrol's.
#20
Sharp Claws
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i agree with the pennzoil statement but wtf is wrong with quaker state?
i've used it for years and it is one of the only oils i use regularly.
****, the quaker state oil i have in my truck has 30K+ miles on it and i just towed over 3000lbs with my measely s-10 pickup V6 with 33" TSL thornbirds on it. sure the oil is thick as hell and blacker than tar but it still has the engine in one piece with no buildup on the valvetrain. i keep it in there because the valve guide oil seals are split and it smokes if i thin out the oil. why bash on a good product? hell i even towed my RX7 home with the same oil change over 2 years ago up over the grapevine from LA and over 500 miles.
stay away from synthetics in the crankcase of rotary engines, they have high ash content.
i've used it for years and it is one of the only oils i use regularly.
****, the quaker state oil i have in my truck has 30K+ miles on it and i just towed over 3000lbs with my measely s-10 pickup V6 with 33" TSL thornbirds on it. sure the oil is thick as hell and blacker than tar but it still has the engine in one piece with no buildup on the valvetrain. i keep it in there because the valve guide oil seals are split and it smokes if i thin out the oil. why bash on a good product? hell i even towed my RX7 home with the same oil change over 2 years ago up over the grapevine from LA and over 500 miles.
stay away from synthetics in the crankcase of rotary engines, they have high ash content.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 07-23-05 at 05:46 PM.
#21
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again search for the oil thread before posting something misinformative karack. low end synthetics have high ash contec, castrol syntec, quaker state synthetic, valvoline, etc; Mobil 1, Redline and Royal purple are very very low.
you can run royal purple, mobil 1, and redline with the stock OMP and not have any problems, it has lower ash content than most of the petroleum based oils. if you have the stock OMP use one of those if you want synthetic, if you want to run castrol or some other synthetic its best if you have the OMP removed and are premixing.
you can run royal purple, mobil 1, and redline with the stock OMP and not have any problems, it has lower ash content than most of the petroleum based oils. if you have the stock OMP use one of those if you want synthetic, if you want to run castrol or some other synthetic its best if you have the OMP removed and are premixing.
Last edited by Agent_D; 07-23-05 at 06:57 PM.
#23
i hear pennzoil breaks down easaly under heat. i worked at a part store and several mechanics told me that
i used to run premix i used the marine 2 stroke tcw3 partial synthetic from advance auto because it was real cheep like 6 or 7 dollars a gall.
i used to run premix i used the marine 2 stroke tcw3 partial synthetic from advance auto because it was real cheep like 6 or 7 dollars a gall.
#24
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Here is a question.. Can anyone find out the origin of "Use tcw3" premix only came about?? Did someone on the forum come along and declare they used tcw3 only premix and everyone jsut took it for gospel?
Heres something for you to think about : The tcw3 specification was created by the different manufacturers of outboard marine motors.. so what does this mean? well the motors that this specification was created for generally have a max rpm limit of 6500 rpm, run at low rpm for long periods of time, and have generally low peak engine temperatures.. Hmmm.. the motors this oil was designed for sound completely opposite from your rotary motor doesn't it??
SO what specification should you be looking for? well the API-TC specification was created for Air cooled, high rpm, high output 2 stroke motors under severe load (ie: racing)
It's interesting to note that Bombardier, who build their rotax motors specifically states not to use tcw3 oils in their motors.. if you look for more info on the rotax motors, you'll find that these motors are made to run hotter, put out more power and work harder than the other motors ...
my 2 cents..
Heres something for you to think about : The tcw3 specification was created by the different manufacturers of outboard marine motors.. so what does this mean? well the motors that this specification was created for generally have a max rpm limit of 6500 rpm, run at low rpm for long periods of time, and have generally low peak engine temperatures.. Hmmm.. the motors this oil was designed for sound completely opposite from your rotary motor doesn't it??
SO what specification should you be looking for? well the API-TC specification was created for Air cooled, high rpm, high output 2 stroke motors under severe load (ie: racing)
It's interesting to note that Bombardier, who build their rotax motors specifically states not to use tcw3 oils in their motors.. if you look for more info on the rotax motors, you'll find that these motors are made to run hotter, put out more power and work harder than the other motors ...
my 2 cents..
#25
Passing life by
Originally Posted by Karack
i agree with the pennzoil statement but wtf is wrong with quaker state?
i've used it for years and it is one of the only oils i use regularly.
****, the quaker state oil i have in my truck has 30K+ miles on it and i just towed over 3000lbs with my measely s-10 pickup V6 with 33" TSL thornbirds on it. sure the oil is thick as hell and blacker than tar but it still has the engine in one piece with no buildup on the valvetrain. i keep it in there because the valve guide oil seals are split and it smokes if i thin out the oil. why bash on a good product? hell i even towed my RX7 home with the same oil change over 2 years ago up over the grapevine from LA and over 500 miles.
stay away from synthetics in the crankcase of rotary engines, they have high ash content.
i've used it for years and it is one of the only oils i use regularly.
****, the quaker state oil i have in my truck has 30K+ miles on it and i just towed over 3000lbs with my measely s-10 pickup V6 with 33" TSL thornbirds on it. sure the oil is thick as hell and blacker than tar but it still has the engine in one piece with no buildup on the valvetrain. i keep it in there because the valve guide oil seals are split and it smokes if i thin out the oil. why bash on a good product? hell i even towed my RX7 home with the same oil change over 2 years ago up over the grapevine from LA and over 500 miles.
stay away from synthetics in the crankcase of rotary engines, they have high ash content.