I would think that premix woudl have little affect on the cat. The car already injects oil into the car via OMP. So I doubt adding an oil meant to be burned at a slightly higher ratio would affect the cat that much if at all.

 

i'm not a guru but ive been running 2 stroke oil for a year and a half now and like if i have a 16 gallon tank i would probably put like 12-14 ounces in. one quart should be good for minimum 3 full tanks....if you're using more than that you're using too much in my opinion. as for filling....personally i don't really care to hold the flap open i just pour it in first then fill it with gas.....the gas flowing in helps mix it in and washes it all down the tube into the tank. keep in mind it doesn't have to be exact amounts.

 

2 stroke has a MUCH lower flash point then motor oil. Some of the ashless 2 stroke oils have a flash point of around 150*F. I have even seen some at 120*F. These would burn cleaner then the cheaper ones that have a flash point near and above 200*F. I have seen some at 250*F. IF your worried about 2 stroke clogging cats, then looks for 2 stroke with a low flash point.

You will not foul your plugs running 2 stroke unless you use way to much. Remember, the more 2 stroke you put in, thats less fuel being injected into the chamber. 2 stroke burns but will not burn like gas so don't think that you will not hurt your performance by adding to much. I see a dramatic difference in power if I add way to much. I once by mistake added 16oz of 2 stroke when I had 4 gallons in the tank. I was going to fill up but never had time due to work. So I ended up running it like that. Not a whole lot of power

2 stroke is also a synthetic so it will lubricate a lot better then conventional mineral oil.

1oz per gallon is OVER KILL! If you are hard on your engine all the time or racing constantly. Then 1oz per gallon I can see working for you.

I run 1/2 oz per gallon for daily driving and I run that for WOT runs all day long. I run even less then that a lot of times with no ill effects. At idle and cruise, you don't need very much at all. At cruise, 1/2oz per gallon is even a little much. Running less then 1/2 a WOT is not reccomended

Personally, adding 2 stroke is a PITA! I would highly reccomend testing your OMP and getting it either fixed or replaced. Im in the process of designing my own modification of the OMP to have it inject 2 stroke. It will be a very complicated system, just because I like sophisticated stuff.

No need, if you measure the oil and pour it in with a funnel or hose or combination of the 2, then the gas from the pump will do a fantastic job of mixing it.

 

I doubt it would have a flash point that low, If so I better move my supplies indoors this summer cause sitting in the hot summer sun it would probably hit 130-140... I can maybe see 250

 

Thats why I said some, actually I said a lot, I will have to change that.Some 2 stroke oils. Not all. Some ashless, or claimed ashless can have a higher flash point. I doubt that the 2 stroke oils you buy at the auto store or walmart or the gas station have flash points that low.

 

You can see here,
http://www.pzlqs.com/Tech/Pdsheet/Do...d&MP2Cycle.PDF

A PDF file for penzoil 2 cycle oil that says its ashless, which may be true, and the flahs point is up near 212*F. It also depends on the additives they use which have a large part in making the 2 stroke ashless.

One thing I forgot to mention is the higher the flash point, the better the lubrication. So if your running a turboed motor with high combustion temps, run a high flash point 2 cycle oil.

 

you might want to check out FC3SPro.com. they have a great article on premixing and synthetic oils. there are alot of other factors that no one have yet mention. like tcw3 and pre mixing IMPROVES emissions. the oil is actualy made to be burned in the engine , unlike motor oil. also like mention by others the advantage of using synthetic oils in the pan.

 

Well, we have mentioned that. The whole point of 2 stroke oil is because its made to burn which will automatically improve emmisions.

 

i did not ment you personaly. i apologize i didn't see that it was mention already. must have skipped a page. lol , i do run pre mix on my car and it has been perfect.

 

i changed my oil today (castrol GTX HM 20w50) and started premixing. i bought a 16 oz. bottle of Penzoil 2 stroke universal (blue in color). I work in a pharmacy so I had access to free prescription bottles used for liquids. There are 2,4,6,8,10,12, and 16 oz measured bottles. I bought a flex hose to make it a bit easier to pour. I poured 4 oz. into 3 gallons of gas then filled the tank with 87 octaine. I was using 91 but everyone seems to think 87 is better so I'll try it out.

 

Don't listen to anything this fool has to say. If oil had a flash point of 120* I would think the oil would ignite in the INTAKE manifold. How many people here have data-logs of intake air being over 120? Not to mention that the block is running about 200* and if you read BDC's AI blog on the other forum, he goes into great detail and calculations of intake temps under compression getting up to 400+* iirc. The oil may be mixed, but it is still there. Here's more proof, when genius ran 32:1 (when he put 16oz in with 4 gallons, which by the way with a full tank would lead to about 128:1 which you just said was overkill ) he said that he lost power. Now, if you have a flash point of about 25% of that of gas (which is in the 400's iirc) wouldn't your motor sooooooo detonate? The reason you don't have much power is because you run the factory cast iron manifold and your TPS is out of adjustment

Outboard motors (Marine is an 80%+ duty cycle) without oil injection should be mixed @ 50:1. 1 gal: 1 oz is 128:1. Now O/B motors WITH oil injection run it variably. anywhere from 200:1 to 50:1. It varies the rate based on throttle position and vacuum very similar to the OMP from Mazda. BTW, its the same TC-W3 oil that you guys are recomending. Think about your own experience with oil consumption with the OMP. Average 15mpg for 3,000 miles and a qt low, running the math you're running an 800:1 ratio. Now the same track car getting say 10 MPG running hard and using a qt in say 300 miles, thats a 120:1 ratio. BTW, I built Justins OMP adapter.

50:1 is overkill. We don't need the 2-stroke to lube main bearings and such like O/B's do. We are concerned with apex/side/corner seals which are not under that much load.

Just food for thougt. Pre-mix is better, but it's a PITA and 90% of the time you don't need 128:1

 

like i said im only putting 4 oz. in for now untill im confortable with it. i may disable the OMP and remove it and run 8-10 oz. premix down the road sometime. i havent driven the car but 2 miles on premix so far. easter traffic was a bitch so i just wanted to go home. i know its working because i could smell a tad bit of oil from the exhaust.

 

Go look on line. Most of the very low flahs point 2 cycle oils are used in air cooled motors. Yes I know our engines are liquid cooled but I was just letting people know they are out there. I never said to use 2 cycle oil that has a flash point of 120*F I was simply stating a fact that I have seen 2 stroke oils flash point rated at 120.

If you also read my last post about using higher flash point 2 cycle oils for better lubrication.

I did a quick search on the net and found some 2 cycle oil with a flash point of 140*F. You can find many others like this too.

http://www.cenex.com/Downloads/2Cycle_122104.pdf

Here is another one rated at 150*F.
http://www.amref.com/bp_pb/7253_BP_L...2Stroke_PB.pdf



This was 4 years ago and I put the oil in at my house and was going to drive to the station on my way to work but run late so I couldn't and used up the fuel that was in the tank. Did you not see where I said, I run 1/2oz per gallon all the time?

For daily driving, 1oz per gallon is over kill. You also agree with this. Don't say you don't because I can go find that thread.

I wouldn't say built it. I sent you the parts so you could TIG them since my mig quickly burnt through the soft brake line I was using. Also, you fucked up on one of them, you ground the smooth end down to far because you have no idea what the hell you are doing and the other one had a pin hole leak in the weld. GREAT WORK! Shows your quality.

 

Nah, it wasn't ground down too far, & I seriously doubt the other hada pin hole leak. Why don't you try to weld it.... oh wait that's right, you did, you couldn't.

 

actually it was ground down to far. Where that small o ring is suppose to seal to the plate, there is a large variation of metal thickness that is about 3/8" long and goes from the center to the outter edge. That piece is unusable unless I want to use a bunch of RTV to make up for your mistake.

I tested each one in a pale of water with one end sealed up and the other attached to the compressor putting out only about 5psi. Guess where the bubbles came from?

Try to tell everyone that you know for a fact that you did not ground down to far and that there was no pin hole when I tested and observed each piece carefully.

If you would like I can even get a messurement of how much metal is "missing".

Yes I did try and even on the lowest setting, no matter what amount of wire I used, it would quickly burn through the soft brake line that I tried using. My welder is not a "small hobby" welder like you think it is.

 

you sure CAN use 87 gas, I ran it for years in my race car 13b on the track and never had any problems. As far as 2 stroke oil, its always some guesstimation. Just a hint of smoke at idle w no cat is about right for the track, just like you would see for a motorcycle engine etc. I would add about 1/3 bottle for 1/2 a tank. Certainly no shortage of opinions on this thread. I definately makes the engine last longer if you premix all the racers swore by it.

 

if you use marine grade oil then it doesnt smoke. runs really clean

 

I can't speak for a whole lot here other than how to ensure that it is mixed well. From my vast boating experience would put half your gas in then your premix then top off with fuel. Done....

 

Its not so much the type of oil that you use but how much. Yes Marine grade would be better than the two-stroke oil you would buy at a hardware store for say a chainsaw. Some O/B's smoke becuase they are mixed @ 50:1. That's more than twice the oil some people mix at.

To rotaman99 AKA Viperdude152.... I know you're a lying sack of spent douche who should be castrated before you procreate. I find no truth or meaning to anything you spew. **** off and die painfully alone. I know there is no pinhole leak, eat ****. The other piece wasn't ground down far enough to make an apprechiable difference either. Here's a thought masturbater fabricator , FIX IT IF IT'S EVEN AT OF WHACK. I've wasted enough of my time on you.... loser

Good call on how to mix the oil too. That's the problem I have when I fill up my boat. 32 gallon tank, so I pour in some oil, add the right amont of gas, pour in more oil, add more gas and the cycle continues. PITA!!! But the last thing you would want to do would be to fill up, add the right amount of oil, and have most of it get hung up in the fill pipe.

 

Aww did I hurt your feelings? Not trying to make it sound like you do crappy work You do that on your own.

Its your fault you even start anything with me cause your always full of ****.

And you must mean "Out of whack". I did fix the pin hole leak and the other one I wont be able to fix because I have no way of making the face of the plate perfectly flat and level. I will get some pictures of it and post them on the internet so everyone can see your fuckup that you deny.

Think anyone cares? I only know a few who might, you being one of them.

Must have been directed toward someone else

TT, you are turning this thread in the wrong direction so knock it off. Besides, its against forum policy. Keep this thread on track. This is the only fair warning you will get from me before a moderator steps in. Don't expect me to continue arguing.

 

Who are you to threaten me you ******* loser *****? Haven't seen you on TeamFC3S in awhile, did we hurt the little girl's feelings? You think you're a tough guy over here? How about I post up some pics of that bitching custom exhaust you made? How about all your wrong rants about timing, TPS's and all your other bullshit? How about your wonderful advice on, "Just keep stacking wheel spacers till they fit." Loser. Like I said "I've wasted enough of my time on you.... loser "

 

please someone HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!



how are we going to get all the sand out of your vaginas??????

bunch of kids.

 

So where, douche nozzle, is your empirical evidence proving that 2-stroke mixed @ 128:1, or as asswipe likes it... 32:1; will provide less emmissions than the mazda OMP which at idle or under most test conditions would more than likely be mixed at a much higher gas:oil ratio? This is what I can't stand about this little shoulda-been ***-stain, he spouts **** as fact when he has ZERO proof what-so-ever. He actually told someone to keep stacking wheel spacers ontop of each other until the wheel cleared the shock! Dis-regard anything rotaman99 or Viperdude152 says. If you happen upon TeamFC3S, it's Viperdude152, Rotaman, 91RX7, RxFC3S, and a strong suspecion he's Vielside as well. He has a tendancy to spout his OPINION as FACT & his opinion is worthless. For your own saftey at times, ignore him
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=53197
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread.php?t=52754

Time for another cocktail. I like having free time

 

As far as the premix oil is concerned, it's been recommended to use TCW-3. I personally believe in using a better oil than that. JASO-FC or better is much better to use, as it's designed to run in air cooled engines running at high RPM. A couple of good ones are branded by Echo, Stihl or Redmax. But this is coming from a small engine mechanic.

Now onto the oil level issue. I wonder if you are having fuel dillution issues, as the MOP systems are pretty reliable. I ran into the dillution issues myself.

 

ok i got my answer 2 pages back people. enough is enough.

Icemark please lock this thread.