power loss. just curious
power loss. just curious
alright so the other day I was driving home and shifted into second and kicked into limp mode (yes I know 88 doesn't have limp mode but ill call it that). I got home and have been driving it like that. rpms are fine goes up to 6500 or however far I want to go, fastest I can get it is 70 mph in about 5 miles with the gas to the floor and no its not flooded.
I Tried checking for a check engine light , don't have an illumination to go off of. Then I checked my catalytic converter, I don't have one, so I unbolted the exhaust and pulled it back to see if it was clogged, wrong again. Put the most expensive gas in texas at my shell thinking maybe bad gas and didn't do anything. Reset timing still no. Unplugged battery for a night still no. I replaced my spark plugs a month ago along with wires and double checked them today and still no. so did the poor man compression low compression on the leading closest to the firewall. What I don't understand is everyone who is having problems with low compression have problem starting their cars mine starts right up everytime. I've read 20-30 posts about loss of compression, the symptoms are right but my car starts up fine and doesn't die runs fine. I read today it could be a bad fuel filter?
I Tried checking for a check engine light , don't have an illumination to go off of. Then I checked my catalytic converter, I don't have one, so I unbolted the exhaust and pulled it back to see if it was clogged, wrong again. Put the most expensive gas in texas at my shell thinking maybe bad gas and didn't do anything. Reset timing still no. Unplugged battery for a night still no. I replaced my spark plugs a month ago along with wires and double checked them today and still no. so did the poor man compression low compression on the leading closest to the firewall. What I don't understand is everyone who is having problems with low compression have problem starting their cars mine starts right up everytime. I've read 20-30 posts about loss of compression, the symptoms are right but my car starts up fine and doesn't die runs fine. I read today it could be a bad fuel filter?
Last edited by zfjohnson07; Oct 25, 2013 at 09:17 PM.
I replaced fuel filter and still same.I only checked the leading spark plugs one near firewall was as if someone was blowing with their mouth. Other was strong could hear it loudly. Gas mileage seems to be worse. Ill check trailing later
how can I check to see if my secondary injectors are working properly?
Also, feels like its trying to pick up every now and then I feel a slight hesitation at random rpms
how can I check to see if my secondary injectors are working properly?
Also, feels like its trying to pick up every now and then I feel a slight hesitation at random rpms
Last edited by zfjohnson07; Oct 26, 2013 at 10:56 AM.
Pin 3H, LG/W wire, is front secondary and 3F, LG/R wire, is rear secondary. W/key to on both should have 12 volts and this should tell you that the plugs are connected to the injectors securely. Then as the secondaries come online the 12 volts should drop to about 6 to 8 volts. you could also use an LED light such that one wire goes to the pin and the other wire to voltage, pin 3I (Black/White wire) and the light would flash if the injector drivers were pulsing a ground signal to the injector.
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
It is CLEARLY running on one rotor to me. That much is obvious by the galloping rhythmic startup.
But the question is why.
You claim to have done a comp test, so for the moment we'll take you at your word on that.
The next likely issue is fuel delivery. Since the problem is evident from the first second you hit the key, only a primary injector not firing could cause this. You can use the above method to inspect that circuit.
Finally you could have an ignition issue...a dead spark plug or a dead ignition coil. Spark is easy enough to check for...grab a spare spark plug (one known to be good), remove one plug wire, put the plug into it, lay it on/beside metal (I use the strut tower mounting bolts), have someone crank the car and watch for a whitish blue spark every second or so. Repeat for the other 3 wires.
IF you verify fuel and spark to both rotors, then you are pretty much only left with a compression issue that you have improperly tested for.
I would suspect the compression issue above all else in my experience. If it were a primary fuel injector, I would expect it to clean up a little bit once the secondaries come online, and yours doesn't. If it were a spark plug fouled, I would expect it to start firing at least intermittently as it heated up and cleaned itself off. IF it were a dead trailing coil, that would not keep the rotor from firing. If it were a dead leading coil I doubt the engine could run at all, because both leadings would not be firing, and I doubt that you can start the engine off of just the trailings.
But the question is why.
You claim to have done a comp test, so for the moment we'll take you at your word on that.
The next likely issue is fuel delivery. Since the problem is evident from the first second you hit the key, only a primary injector not firing could cause this. You can use the above method to inspect that circuit.
Finally you could have an ignition issue...a dead spark plug or a dead ignition coil. Spark is easy enough to check for...grab a spare spark plug (one known to be good), remove one plug wire, put the plug into it, lay it on/beside metal (I use the strut tower mounting bolts), have someone crank the car and watch for a whitish blue spark every second or so. Repeat for the other 3 wires.
IF you verify fuel and spark to both rotors, then you are pretty much only left with a compression issue that you have improperly tested for.
I would suspect the compression issue above all else in my experience. If it were a primary fuel injector, I would expect it to clean up a little bit once the secondaries come online, and yours doesn't. If it were a spark plug fouled, I would expect it to start firing at least intermittently as it heated up and cleaned itself off. IF it were a dead trailing coil, that would not keep the rotor from firing. If it were a dead leading coil I doubt the engine could run at all, because both leadings would not be firing, and I doubt that you can start the engine off of just the trailings.
compression on trailing one was alright compression on trailing two was great. so think my compressions the cause. I was driving home and trying to listen when I hit 3800 rpms for the injectors they felt like the kick on about 4-5000 rpms feels like its trying to go faster but still in what I call the limp mode for this year.
Went home did the water into the intakr then thought maybe my spark plugs were bad got new ones but didn't do the trick. Then got my spark plug tester to check for power and it was good. So tomorrow I will check the injectors
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
Are you testing the compression with a GAUGE, or just by ear?
An untrained ear can be fooled by the poor man's compression test.
It is much better to have a friend crank the engine for you while you put your fingers near the holes and compare the pulses.
It is even better to use an actual gauge.
An untrained ear can be fooled by the poor man's compression test.
It is much better to have a friend crank the engine for you while you put your fingers near the holes and compare the pulses.
It is even better to use an actual gauge.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)

What are you talking about?
If that was meant as a smartass remark, then you might want to think twice before you talk **** to someone taking the time to try and help you. You're the one here asking for help as to why your busted vehicle does not run right, not me. IF you think that me giving advice to you means I "must think I am a god to everyone" then you need to go and figure it out yourself, and the members of this forum can keep our "godly" advice to ourselves.
If I have somehow misconstrued your comments as being more negative than they were intended, you can ignore the above. However I doubt that is the case since there is not much of any other way your comment can be taken.
spark plugs, they have les than 50 miles on them. these are the front two


these two came from the low compression cylinders. put in at the same time... the bottom one is the top leading closest to firewall and the bottom one is the trailing closest to the firewall as well.


these two came from the low compression cylinders. put in at the same time... the bottom one is the top leading closest to firewall and the bottom one is the trailing closest to the firewall as well.
Last edited by zfjohnson07; Oct 28, 2013 at 03:19 PM. Reason: added pictures.
your engine is blown, the "galloping crank" stated by kevin already tells us that the compression is low and a poor mans test won't tell you much. hell, he was even trying to be hopeful that your engine wasn't blown and you go after him.
you can clearly see the rear plugs aren't firing(fuel fouled electrodes/black) because there's nothing to fire except raw fuel/oil. 2+2=4
now i will step in, stop bashing people trying to help you. if you still think everyone is wrong, go rent a compression tester and verify it for yourself. you can apologize to him when you're done.
denial and personal attacks won't fix your car.
and if you get snippy with me i will simply put you on ignore and neither of the cheaper most reliable builders in the country will be offering their services to you(well maybe kevin still will, i've grown less forgiving lately).
you can clearly see the rear plugs aren't firing(fuel fouled electrodes/black) because there's nothing to fire except raw fuel/oil. 2+2=4
now i will step in, stop bashing people trying to help you. if you still think everyone is wrong, go rent a compression tester and verify it for yourself. you can apologize to him when you're done.
denial and personal attacks won't fix your car.
and if you get snippy with me i will simply put you on ignore and neither of the cheaper most reliable builders in the country will be offering their services to you(well maybe kevin still will, i've grown less forgiving lately).
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; Oct 28, 2013 at 03:48 PM.
i've read 20 threads about compression and i'm pretty sure I did it correctly. its obvious when you try cranking it and you can hear it without even sticking your hand down there. but just in case I was mistaken I did stick my hand down their to feel the blow. you guys act like you know everything about everything. i'm not really worried anyways thanks for the help.
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 11,576
Likes: 27
From: Morristown, TN (east of Knoxville)
IF you're going to drive it that way, at least disconnect your fuel injectors for the dead rotor so that you don't catch the damn car on fire with tons of unburned fuel shooting into the exhaust.
Actually the other day I caught the exhaust on fire from raw gas. I talkrd to a guy in dallas and he told me he could fix it.
And pistons... I blew my motor in my 03 mach 1 spun a rod bearing. I don't need a lecture I've owned 15 cars and never had one problem til this year. I'm just running into bad any way I go
And pistons... I blew my motor in my 03 mach 1 spun a rod bearing. I don't need a lecture I've owned 15 cars and never had one problem til this year. I'm just running into bad any way I go



