a stuck VDI would only cause a minor difference past 6k, not a full out dead spot in power.

the S5 n/a has 2 ECU grounds, one on the bracket that bolts to the upper intake manifold at the seam on the driver side and the second bolts to the same location as the series 4's at the rear rotor housing.

there is also a third ground which most people neglect which is the main battery wire going to the starter mount bolt.

 

Okay. I'll do that now as well. I've got my hands on a multimeter so I'm gonna spend some time fiddling with the tps and checking connections in the top. I really don't want to remove the UIM, as I drive the car daily. Downtime is a real killer so I need to be sure it can sit for a day or two while I replace OMP lines, etc. Lots more will be done than just the ground.

 

When I check the TPS multimeter style, am I testing for AC volts or DC? I was getting some wacky readings from both today, so my problem might be a combination of a bad TPS and bad grounds. I do still get code 14 when off throttle. I played with the TPS today and it presented different mannerisms of the car. I got her to pull all the way through the range just fine, but at the expense of a few random bumps, hiccups and misses while driving. No bueno.
Ben, I'm gonna do those other ECU grounds as soon as my gasket comes in from Atkins and probably new OMP lines. Starter ground tomorrow and I might order the rockauto tps since it's not $400, unless someone has a good one I can buy.

 

DC volts.

 

Guys have a look in the thread I started. I replaced the pump and got much better idle and much better cruising. Hoping I can figure this out soon. Karack, I know I have been putting it off but I'm going to do the secondary swap method. Did you do anything special to pull the pins out of the ecu plug? Really not trying to mess **** up.