Etzim

Alright so im getting close to getting my 6port turbo running and, i been really thinking about my setup and want to make sure i dont blow it up.

So here is the deal, I have a s4 na 6 port motor with a turboII lower and upper intake with an s5 turbo and turbo injectors. This motor is completely stock internally as far as i know. For an ecm i will be running the n332 ecu, also still using the stupid air intake sensor thing that goes on the turbo. I would like to run 8psi on this setup, What do i need to do? fpr with a certain amount of psi, cas timing? I heard this setup can work and id like to make it work. Thanks

bumpstart

change fuel pump too

Etzim

considering it had an s5 turbo swap in it before that blew im assuming it has an fd pump or walbro 255 but if not yes thats defiantly on my list!

fcrotory

iTrader: (20)

It will work just fine. Upgrade to a walbro fuel pump and keep the boost low.

Etzim

how low :"(? whats the max?

Whizbang

be mindful the stock turbo ecu ran Knock sensors. Your 6 port doesnt have this. The turbo lower (4 port) matches to the 6 port engine rather poorly.

how did you determine 8 psi? that is a rather arbitrary.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i would start with boost as low as it will go, and then slowly turn it up until it starts to run out of fuel, and then lower it a little

Etzim

My turbo lower intake is port matched so its not so bad haha. I determined 8psi because that what i heard the max max the stock ecu can handle tell it guesses. So i figure thats a safe number if i run it rich and retard the timing a lil, i should be fine right?

brian_skotch

iTrader: (6)

Make sure you install a wideband. I don't believe you need a fuel pressure regulator or to mess with the timing. There are a couple people I know running 6 port turbos on the stock na ecu. Just make sure you keep the boost low. (Hard I know ) 8 psi should be okay, and you don't lean it out and pop it. I'm sure 8 psi with the high compression rotors will feel way faster than a turbo motor on 8 psi.

Etzim

Yeah thats what i was thinking, so 8 psi should be ok. Im actually trying to get a wideband right now. Whats the s5 turbo wastegate spring psi stock?

fcrotory

iTrader: (20)

Knock sensor is no biggie. By the time the ecu reads a knock its prolly too late. Dont need it. I wouldn't run the stock tmic either. A front mount will help keep it cooler. The top mount will work for daily driving. But once you start driving hard the AIT will increase dramatically. Ask me how i know:/ at minimum run a t2 fuel pump or just spend $75 on a walbro. Stock FPR will work too. You could also hook up a SAFC and tune your A/F. The 550cc injectors should be fine too. Long as boost is low. If your running a straight thru exhaust make sure you port the wastgate to prevent boost creep. Cause that could end it fast for you. Otherwise if you keep it in stock form at a low boost level. It will run forever.

polito Racing

iTrader: (1)

i was thinking of going this route with my car. do you have pictures of this setup?

arghx

iTrader: (3)

8psi on premium will be fine.

Etzim

Hmm should i still port the wastegate if i have the s5 dual wastegate? Heres a link to my setup, i have not updated in a while.. https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...turbo-1025318/

fcrotory

iTrader: (20)

I've seen stock s5 turbos creep to 13psi. Just depends on your intake and exhaust setup. Big straight thru exhausts usually make the turbo inconsistent in boost. Especially in higher gears/bigger load. If you port the wastegate you can always add a mbc if you wanna add more boost down the road.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

my last t2 i had no signs of boost creep with an intake and exhaust, with the S5 turbo, however if you have it apart, you might wanna notch the back cover so the flapper can open a little more, and get rid of any big casting flash/boogers on the WG runners.

driftingmyFC

This was exactly my setup for the last two years, just with 2.5 straight pipe, stock fpr, ported wastegate and walbro pump. Abused it alot drifting it, never blew.

unek87

I'm going to be finishing up my haltech install here in the next few weeks , I'm running a holset hx52 now . Was running a unknown t4 with n332 , walbro for awhile and I would hit my regulated 5psi at the wastegate by 2500 . So up'd it to 8 with a mbc ,went rtek 1.8 , 800cc x4 .fmic and it would be getting It til the higher rpm and would lean out a lil . Did a few more fuel mods and finally the turbo got to small I guess and blew apart in the heart of the turbo . Nothing happened to the motor . Now I've ran the hx52 on the rtek Ecu and fuel combo but I'm leaning out way to high to quick , so now I'm selling the rtek setup and installing the haltech . In the end a wideband is your Best friend and I would of blown my motor if it wasn't for it .

Etzim

Just thought i would bring this thread back to life, because i have changed my setup plans...
So heres where im at " now that im not a super poor rx7 owner ". Im still going to keep the 6port with the port matched lower intake. Instead of the stock ecu or a safc or rtek 1.8. I have come to a final decision to run the rtek 2.1, Along with 4x750cc injectors and a walbro 255 fuel pump with an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I will also be running a front mount intercooler and of course a wideband afr. I have seriously not even joking blocked off EVERYTHING you can possibly delete on the rotary, all emission and the little valve on the side of the intake. Also i have done the butterfly mod and deleted the coolant to the intake. And this engine will only be running premix cause i deleted that terrible idea of mazdas via omp.

Im most likely going to be making a hybrid turbo with my stock rebuilt s5 turbo 74mm exducer wheel with a 54mm inducer and im not sure if its A/R 60 or A/R 70 cold side. Anyways that should be a pretty decent setup for a turbo.

So do i need to be worried about more than doubling the hp on this n/a 6 port block? Shooting for around 300ish maybe a bit more.

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

I would be wary of using a front mount if you still have the stock radiator. Change it out for a larger aluminum unit unless you want overheating issues. And seal all areas around it to prevent air bypassing the radiator. I ran with a FMIC for a while, but ended up with a v mount when the radiator I ordered from china wouldn't fit. So be cautious of who you buy the rad from too. Otherwise, you'll be making lemonade like me

Etzim

I was thinking about buying a godspeed radiator, i heard good things about those. Interesting how a cheap copycat china company is starting to get a good name >.>

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

as with most things rotary, Mazda was there first and we have a road map to follow.

to go from 146hp to 180hp, Mazda put in a larger oil pump.

to go from 180-200hp, they used hardened stationary gears, and tension bolts with a ribbed section, this is more for the high RPM the engine sees, i think. late in the run they made the dowel land thicker.

to go from 200hp to 225hp, they upgraded the corner seal springs.

to go to 255hp, they raised the oil pressure (FD regulator is only $30 new), and went to the multi window bearings. they also upgraded to the larger front thrust assembly.

to go to 280hp, they made some changes to the metering oil system.

so to sum up, i would put the turbo oil pump in, at a minimum, the oil pressure regulator next, and then the FD/Rx8 bearings

Etzim

hmmmm i was hoping i wouldn't have to do anything internally... I just had the front cover off and i just put it back on and put the engine back in :o

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

it actually should be ok

AGreen

iTrader: (11)

Yes, it's a good radiator. Just be careful which one you get. Go through a reputable seller so you don't get a godspeed knockoff like I got. The heater pipe off the lower neck was put on sideways, which ran in to the front sway bar. That's why I ended up making it a vmount just to make it fit.