icarus179

I searched the previous posts and used the info for schematics but I am totally confused...
I recently took out the transmission on my 86 GXL to change the throw out bearing. I put it back together with no issues once I got the splines lined up.
After that I noticed the ground wire going from the firewall to the top bell housing bolt was melted. I decieded to replace it with a good piece of 8 gage ground wire for a car stereo amp.
As soon as I started driving it back and forth to work, I noticed once that the power cut out for about 2 seconds while driving at 60 mph. Everything went dead stereo, AC, and ALL gages including tach. It just kicked back on.
I got home and turned off the car then turned the key back on to roll up the windows and I got nothing. I wiggled the key off and on and it worked eventually.
Now It happened again when I came home for lunch. I came out and I have no power but the headlights work but no gages or radio etc...
I have the factory installed anti-theft alarm also. I read somewhere that matters in the troubleshooting...
My question is: Is it possible to provide too much of a good ground from the engine to the chassis?? Or should I concentrate on re-doing the wiring going to the starter???
BTW... I got home yesterday and I couldnt duplicate the problem. It fired right up.

vaughnc

The firewall-Slave Cylinder wire is NOT ment to be a primary ground, it has something to do with the ECU & proper signaling.

If you haven't already, make sure the stock ground strap is there for the starter, exhaust header bolt (next to the back of the transmission) to the body, exhaust hanger to body ground (back of car to prevent premature exhaust rusting), and the other engine grounds.

JamesBong

Since this started right after you changed the transmission, I'd definately check the starter wireing. Make sure you have a solid ground at the starter. Make sure all of the connections are clean, and make sure that the wire that runs directly from the battery is on tight. There may be a short in the solonoid.

icarus179

OK I was going home tonight to remove the starter and check the wires again. I didnt remove them last time I just let the starter hang out while I changed the throw out bearing.
Maybe I pulled a wire end loose while I was Monkey#$#@ing the xmsn back into alignment ??
Should I take the mondo ground wire back out???

opelbits

iTrader: (5)

Look between the battery and the fusebox. There is a single heavy black wire (12 gauge wire, I think) with a black connector in-line.

Check it for corrosion/looseness/melting/etc.

This wire feeds the chassis electrical.

The tell-tale sign that this is the problem is that you will have only headlights and the ignition key reminder buzzer. Those two circuits do not go thru that wire.

icarus179

The ground wire was still present at the started going to the exhaust header bolt.

icarus179

I found that wire opelbits I followed it down and lost it till iw went to the main relay. Is it before the main relay?

KompressorLOgic

iTrader: (6)

i had corosion in the main ignition wire near battery and it would randomly cut on and off, when id hit bumps and what not.

opelbits

iTrader: (5)

The wire goes from the fusebox (next to the battery) and down and back, but the connector should be right there, about six inches or so from the fusebox.

icarus179

opelbits,
I found the black connector you are referring to and yes it was very brittle from getting very hot. It just crumbled in my hands so I broke it all away and exposed the spade and female connector. I plugged them back together and squeezed tight with pliers and wrapped it good with electrical tape. If it was lose its not now.

I also took the starter back out and checked the wiring connections. Nothing was loose because I didnt disconnect any wires last time. I wiggled them all to check.
I will drive it tomorrow and see if it does it again. I took it for a few miles tonight ******* it out down a really bumpy road and it worked good.
If it does it again I am thinking it is a weak main relay? I fix helicopters in the Army and I see alot of bad relays often. Just a guess please tell me if I'm in left field.

tIIsleeper

When the power cut out did you here any noises?

icarus179

Nothing. No key reminder ring, no stereo, no clicking at the starter, alternator or main relay.

icarus179

Is ti possible to have too much ground? I didnt take out the extra ground wire.

vaughnc

You don't want to add additional grounds, just replace or upgrade the existing ones.

The ECU will have signaling issues if you start adding new grounds to the engine.

HAILERS

The wire that you just FIXED and mentioned by OPELBITS, is the ignition switch feed wire. If it's intermittent or open, then the turning the key will do nothing.

If that wire is broken you WILL still have headlights/retractors, but no functions of the ignition switch.

You've probably *FIXED* your problem when you repaired that connection below the engine fuse box.

dsmrx7

I fixed my wire, but my car still does the same $hit. It works when "push-started," the starter is new, the starter cables are new. I turn the key to "start" and there's a loud "click," then the power dies until I remove the terminals and reconnect them.

bradenscreed

Sounds like something is shorting out somewhere, like everyone else said, just check all the power wires and grounds coming from and leading to the battery and starter, i had the same problem once, was something so simple. might have also blown a relay in the process, which if i remember right, you wont be able to tell just by looking at them.

dsmrx7

I found the problem, it was a low voltage battery...

JamesBong

I hate that one. It always looks like something worse.

SureShot

You may have more than one problem.
If the battery cuts out while you're running, the alternator should keep you going.

Quick test with a cheap DVM:
Engine running, headlights & heater fan on high:
Alternator post to alternator frame = 13.5-14 volts (verifies the alternator output)
alternator post to battery (+) = 0 volts (verifies the primary + wire)
alternator frame to battery (-) = 0 volts (verifies the primary ground)
Turn off the motor, but leave the lights on.
Battery (+) to battery (-) = ~12.5 volts and holds steady. (verifies battery)