So, much to my dismay, the motor that I recently built still has not started since I put it into the car.

The car is an 88 Turbo II, it is a DE-EMISSION'D motor (RAN THIS WAY BEFORE THE REBUILD AS AN ACTUAL TURBO'D CAR), it has a 87 harness (low imp.) that was modified for high impedence injectors (car ran with that setup). Engine has 4 port turbo irons (stock port), turbo rotor housings, turbo eccentric shaft, turbo counterweights, S4 NA 9.4-1 comp. rotors, RA apex seals, Atkins solid corner seals, FD corner seal springs, OE side seals, new apex seal springs, new side seal springs, new oil control springs, viton oil control o-rings, RA water and combustion seals. Engine was built with crisco, and petroleum jelly, and rtv in the appropriate areas. That should do it for those interested and to help responses.

Here's the ailments,

-car has spark on Leading and trailing
-car has fuel to front and rear rotors
-car is getting air and reacts to TB movement
-will not catch and start
-tried push starting
-tried starter-starting
-Engine just floods
-will clear engine, clean spark plugs, and try to start again, but engine only floods.
-timing is as per the FSM
-TPS, IAT, AFM, Water Temp, Oil Pressure Sender, all are plugged in
-butterfly's inside the TB are opening
-starter has enough juice (Auto-NA starter= extra turning powah)
-fully charged Optima battery


I need help. Why is it just continually flooding? And not the too much fuel to start a normal motor, but pouring fuel out the exhaust...LITERALLY.

Thanks for the help guys. (Not a newbie, just need the right guidance. Yes, I've searched.)

-Tim

 

hmmm...i ran into this problem a long time ago...i'll ask one of my mechanics and see what he says...last i recall...we had to manually crank it a bit to get it going and to test out the timing and everything...after several manual cranking...it started up....

i'll ask for the specifics and get back to u...

 

Make a fuel cut. switch flip it off when your trying to start it. Turn it on after its running.

 

well, assuming it is built right, i would check - and double check - the timing.

 

when i had a blown engine i flooded it really bad. to about the same condition your describing (raw fuel pouring out the Exhaust) it took a pull start. i hooked my FC up to my wifes pathfinder, and let her pull me, it took twice around the block before it even started, i was in 3rd gear during this process. soon as it started, i went to neutral, and let the car idle (needed my help in the begining).

Being a New rebuild, the new seals, have not formed to the housings, so you are probably not making great compression (better than my blown motor though ) I would make a Fuel cut switch like 2slow mentioned, and if that fails. attempt a pull start.

 

sounds all too familiar...hence the manual cranking to get all the seals and pieces to "fit"...helps if u have the right torque wrenching power tools to crank the engine...

 

fuel pressure? fuel line back to front ?fuel injectors jammed open? followed the wiring colours to be sure you don't have both primaries on one rotor and secondaries on other??.

 

Do a compression test, and just an FYI, If you flood the hell out of new spark plugs, even though they look new, they can still be fouled to the point that they are just junk.

Have somone crank it and use the EFI or EGI or whatever that fues is to actually get it to start. Just have the person cranking it crack the gas pedal just a bit and you do all the other work with the fuse. Once it goes then the pedal comes into play.

Sounds like you either have a shitty compression or have stuff bass ackwards. Eventually youll sort it

 

Can anyone explain why you should always change plugs after a bad flood? I had a really bad flood about 6 months ago, and I eventually cleared it and didn't change the plugs because they were almost new prior to that. I've been running it since on the same plugs, and the car seems to be running okay. Would there be any point in me changing them now anyway, or have I "revived" them somehow?

 

fouled spark plugs may be poisened in the base of the well with carbon deposits
any spark will arc along the track rather than jump the air gap and may never recover

what you do have to worry about is that certain styles of plug may get moisture into tiny gaps between the base insulator and the anode
and if these plugs are run up then there is a chance that the boiling fluid in these gaps makes the anode break off,, or the insulator crack away

in a rotary engine this can cost the engine or the turbo

plugs i have noted that are prone to this include the iridium plugs but also the cheap b9ES series

 

Did you set the CAS?

 

Disconnect the fuel pump altogether.

Clear the engine.

Spray starter fluid into the air filter for two seconds and no more.

Try starting the engine with a fully charged battery.

Do this after making sure the CAS is installed right per the thread just above this one.

And or remove the top cover off the CAS. Put the front pulley marks opposite the fixed pointer. Take a picture of the top of the CAS with the cover off on this thread.

With the marks on the pulley aligned with the fixed pointer............the top view of your CAS should look like the attached jpg as regards the rotating two pointer vs the two black reluctors. I took that jpg yrs ago on top of a scanner and the two pointers are just a tash too far clockwise but not very much too far. They should be cutting across the left corner of the black reluctor on the left of the jpg.