Hey,

I was hitting up the mazda dealerships for some touch up paint for my fc and it took them a hour to find the paint code for noble white, so i did my snooping around and i remember coming here before and they had a black convertable driven by the parts department guy with a rebuild and new paint job and he never drives it.

Then in the back there is a convertable sitting in the back for sale and a red s5 na that isn't in so good shape (has little dents, small cracked tail lights) and the guy who was selling it said they couldn't start it, so i go in, pull the egi fuse (i didn't know i just had to floor it for s5) and crank it then put it back in, floor it and it starts up, made a fool out of the mechanics who couldn't start it i'll tell you that.

So back to the story. I go and see a Nice s5 sitting back there, s5 gxl, straight body, a little push in on the front bumper by the foglights, paint isn't sooo great but its ok and the s5 tails are perfect. Interior is black and is Dirty but it can be cleaned up, just has lots of pet hairs, it has bad shifter bushings and ~150k if i remember right. Then i looked at the price 400 bucks! the guy said its been sitting here for a year and I never saw it, weird! He said it needed a battery so he tried to put a charger and i tried to work my magic but it wouldn't crank over, all the idiot lights went on, and it was hitting 12 on the volts and when i would try to crank it i heard the starter do the "click" and the volts would drop to zero and it wouldn't beep anymore. I could probably talk this guy down more, and i offered him 50 bucks for the s5's + my s4 lights to put on it if i didn't want the car and he agreed. So what do you think the problem could possibly be? And is it worth it? i can possibly talk him down more. Sorry for the long talk.

-Andrew

 

Dead starter . What interior????

 

Black interior, but i thought when you heard the starter do its click it meant its running right?

 

I would purchase it if you have money burning a hole in your pocket. You can part it out for more than your initial investment if you cannot getting running properly. As far as what is wrong, I have no idea, there are a decent amount of possabilities, It could be flooded, etc. If possible, compression test it.

 

I'll be going there on friday, i'm gonna take some pics

 

get it
good deal wont alst

 

Its probably the starter not touching the flywheel. The starters teeth aren't spinning so it isn't grabbing the flywheel which in turn isn't crancking the engine.

 

^Yeah i hope its that, to check if the engine is seized i put a 19mm wrench on the main puley and turn it and if it moves it isn't seized right? Hell my fc is down for a couple more days should i take my battery tommorow and put it on there? I'll have pics and a writeup when i'm back, this thing is more and more tempting, i think i can break a deal and ask him for the slightly cracked s5 tail lights off the other fc and a price break, he's Desperate to sell the car. How much should i offer? i have a list of roughly 100 dollars of maint. items to do to it that can help take it down too.

-Andrew

 

i'll buy it for 450!

DAMNIT i wish i found deals like that over here

 

i would just get it.... if not, i will get it!

 

Yeah I guess its good, i know of other deals but they don't seem to be as "good" as this one, cept that TII w/reman

-Andrew

 

Ok no pictures or anything today cause it was raining and i didn't feel like going out there. But i wrote up a list to show the guy what i have to do to get this car in running order if the motor isn't blown:
The Basics:
Castrol GTX 20W50 - 15
OEM Filter- 5
NGK Spark Plugs- 25
NGK Wires- 25
Prestone Coolant- 10
Distilled water- 2
Prestone Flush- 3
Alternator, Smog, PS and A/C belt-50
Flush Gas tank and put new gas- 10
Registration- 50
Smog- 40

More:
Redline MT-90- 35
Redline 75-90- 20
OEM Fuel Filter-25
Upper & Lower Rad. Hoses- 25
Fuel lines For filter & Fuel Rails- 20
New Vacuum lines-15
Injector Rebuild-60
Clamps-10
Gaskets-20

Thats nearly 500 bucks of things I can put in this guys face to lower the price. Also just to check cause the question wasn't answered if i put a 19mm on the main pulley and if it spins the motor isn't seized right? I should look to the starter next. and i can take my battery as well.

 

Where do you guys normally find these cheap RX7s? I need a project 7 I can can rip to **** and keep my GXL in good shape for daily driving (being a DD, I haven't been able to strip the hell out of it).

 

When I tried to start my wife's RX-7 that'd been sitting dead for three years it did that. I think the starter solonoid was jammed or something, because I tried it a few more times after a battery re-charge, and it started right up! Of course, it might be the dreaded carbon lock. If I new about that, I would have tried turning the shaft with a wrench first.

 

Regardless if the motor is blown or not a rolling chassis is worth that much at least.

 

a battery terminal is loose or corroded, remove both terminals and clean them and resecure them and i bet it cranks over, if it isn't carbon locked that is...

 

OKAY if its clicking that is the solenoid. you are either not getting enough voltage to the starter/solenoid for it to fully engage on the contacts. OR the solenoid is bad

 

loose battery wires. my old '89 GTU sometimes did that. just a click and everything stopped, no power. the wires weren't on securely, so it couldn't pass enough voltage to start it, and it would just make the click and drain what power the system already had in it, killing everything pretty much, because it couldn't draw power from the battery fast enough. just check the wires, pretty much. probably something simple like that.

-Andrew-

 

where in south cali is this fc? i would like to "look" at it

 

its not in south cali btw if i bought both s5's straight body, black interior, everything is there how much do you think i could make parting it out?

 

depends on what works and what condition stuff is in. but the engine, harness, ecu and black interior itself is worth around $400.

 

of freakin' course its loose battery cables, if it was the starter soiloned then you could hold the key in the on position and the voltage meter should still read 9 something volts. Do you guys never find good deals? I got my turbo II for $500 and got it running and driving in 3 days, needs clutch and has leaking fuel injector, the paint was beatiful as well as the interior minus the ripped leather seats. I bought my 85 GS for $150, my friend's 87 base was $375, another friend payed $200 for a 87 gxl with a nice 1 year old paint job, tires with one day of driving on them. Sounds exactly like battery cables, try a wire brush or a designated battery post and terminal tool, and some die-electric grease, maybe even some gold plated terminals (we got them at Advanced Auto Parts for like $8 bucks). good luck, don't part it just fix it.

 

You guys all suck. :P All the FCs and FBs in the Minnesota area are being sold by rape artists. I had to drive to Madison Wisconsin to get my GXL for $2,000 in good running condition and ok paint (body needed some love though).

 

if it is the solenoid that is bad then why is it clicking?
try a bad starter motor, not solenoid.

 

^I love this guy. Btw if you must know of another good deal i know of it's online but maybe you don't know its a 88 TII with a reman that has a electrical problem blowing its main fuse everytime it tries to crank, its got 800 miles, its got extra parts not installed: like a to4b turbo with under 1k miles, greddy bov, hks boost controller, installed: catback exhaust, intake (not sure what brand), strut toewr bar and its 1800 bucks but you can probably talk him down to 1500. Yes i can give you the location whoever just pm me, karack if you want it you have first dibs, you always help me out.

-Andrew